If you buy a new physical back issue then it should have the plan stitched in as all print issues are printed the same. Second hand issues often seem to have the plan taken out for no good reason!

Colin

Just keep looking on ebay. The plan will appear at some stage.

I know this is an old entry but it seems fitting.
I have the plan for the pilot 40 and I have just received the hull from Sarik. My sparrow  yacht will soon be finished and I intend getting on with the build.  Before I do that I would like to get hold of a copy of the magazine that covered the build.  Has anyone got a copy that could sell me ?  I have checked out the usual auction sites.

Bri

The Sarik advert mentions that it was featured in Model Boats Magazine October 1980 but this is wrong, it was in the October 1990 issue.

Colin

Thank you for your efforts.

I will look up your link.

brian

So progress on the pilot 40 has been slow, almost asleep! I must have been when i cut the stern tubes in. I managed to get them so shallow in the hull – with watching the outside more than the inside whilst cutting – i have not left enough room for the dives !!!!!!!!!

I am now going to have to put gear reduction in to get the drive to work at all.

So what to make? I can get a 25 tooth 0.5mod spur gear in and then run a 50 tooth into it. The motor will then get another 15 tooth to made the drive up. This will give me around 3/1 turn down (not accurate) from the 380 drive motors.

I think ‘Fletcher’ would have said what a Nerk?

On a better note i got the rudders in and the servo tray.

Yes, but then you would never be able to get it out again I imagine.

If it is a standard shaft diameter, 2mm or 4mm, Steve at Modelboatbits would be able to make up suitable shafts.

Colin.

I have fairly recently seen a twin engine tug installation where the double UV joints were at quite extreme angles and it all worked fine.

What you have to bear in mind is that the bigger the angle, the larger the losses so it becomes a case of what is acceptable as regards losses in the joint.  Also of course, the bigger the angle, the more the joint is actually working so the shorter the life of the joint.

If you look underneath many of the rock crawler type of RC cars nowadays the UV joints are at quite surprisingly steep angles.  The big difference being that they are turning very slowly and are driven by hi-torque motors.  Fast motors opens up a range of different concerns.

If it was me I would always aim to minimise either parallel displacement or angular displacement to give the couplings as easy a life as possible.

Hi there

Just a thought with regarding extending the shafts inboard – how’s about a straight connector – one with grub screws in – so, if required, they can be loosened and released quite easily.

John

That could certainly be the answer John. As Richard says, there might be sufficient room to withdraw the  shafts from the inside but you would need to remove the motors and have an unobstructed space above the shaft.

Colin

I agree I would be better starting again with them. It will not take me too much trouble to make a rubber uj.
I will get them made and try it before I cut them out. It’s worth a try.

Also got my new toy today. As it happened a work colleague was looking to move this on.