Motor choice is dependant on which of the lifeboat kits that Tony Green offers is involved. Motor choice and the work it (they) are intended to do determines the ESC. Probably a brace of Marine Viper 15s. Not the cheapest option, but cheaper than buying a cheaper option and then going for the right one.

A hardware mixer setup in the boat does improve handling, if the transmitter can do the mixing for you that's a saving on wire in the boat. Most transmitters are capable of binding to more than one receiver, so unless it is intended to sail both boats at the same time, a new transmitter should not be needed.

Hello again Stephen,

Just a brief comment: when at the 'beginner' end of the spectrum (you and me ?), it's easy to be seduced by the available technology.

When I go to my next boat, I'll just add another receiver on the same frequency. I do the same with my gliders.

Most of the 'clever' stuff is all done at the transmitter – but, just how clever does it need to be ? There's a lot to be said for simplicity !

Regards,

Dave C

ps If you have 2.4 Ghz, you don't even have to bother about frequencies any more

Stephen, one of the leading experts on lifeboats, in particular your type, is Neil Howard-Pritchard, who posts on here. I would send him a PM with your questions.

Looks like you will have to buy another transmitter anyway so enjoy the shopping. If you haven't already gone down the 2.4 Ghz route I would seriously look at it. You have no concerns with interference from other modellers and, with a good quality set, can enjoy a reliable signal with a range better than your eyesight.  You and your grandson will both be able to enjoy uninterrupted sailing for as long as you wish with no concerns as regards other users.

You are correct with tank steering, the left hand stick is allocated to the left hand propeller and the right hand stick is allocated to the right hand propeller, through their respective speed controllers. They can be tricky to perfectly match for speed but the trim adjustments can be used to help and even trimming the rudder can compensate. The arrangement tends to be more popular for tugs where manoeuvrability requirements outweighs the necessity for perfect straight line running. Mixing can then be used to vary motor speeds to assist steering, which can be useful with two shafts and a single rudder as you do not have a propeller flowing directly over the rudder surface so you do not get quite the same degree of 'lift' from the rudder. This is more noticeable at slower speeds.

Basically what you are saying is correct, the 'inside' shaft slows down to assist the rudder. I even believe that taken to an extreme it can actually stop or even go astern if you set it up as such.

Edited By Richard Simpson on 03/02/2021 13:55:25

hi Stephen,

i have just noticed your question about running a Rother class lifeboat and what engines to use.

i have built many lifeboats in my last 25 years of classic lifeboat building.

i have designed 6 different lifeboat kits over that period of time, five of them being smaller classic lifeboats around and a little longer than the Rother.

so i'll list what i run them all on….and being a cheapskate i buy the cheapest i can on ebay.

i also run them on 12v X 3.4 or 7 amp hour Yuasa type batteries,depending on which fit in the boat.

2 x low revving 12v motors such as these motors on ebay….

Dc Motor Johnson 12 V/552 | eBay

2 x shaft couplings to suit the diameter of the motor output shaft and the propellor shaft. plenty on ebay either plastic or metal, similar to these.

model boat universal shaft coupling | eBay

2 x electronic Electronic Speed Controllers, best on the market are ACTION esc's and can be bought from Componant shop. they should have forward'reverse function and MUST be rated at 40 amp. contact iain, the company owner to discuss with him what esc is available.

Action Electronics | Component-Shop

2 x spade fuse holders [same as used in motor vehicles] these go in line on the red/positive lead from the esc's to the positive battery lead to protect the esc from too much power being taken by the motors should the propellor stall for some reason…..string or weed or plastic bags wrapped round the propellor.esc's are expensive, 20 amp fuses are not.

12V/24V STANDARD BLADE IN LINE FUSE HOLDER UP TO 30A WITH SIDE SPADE CONNECTORS | eBay

1 x 7ah battery,

NP7-12 12v 7Ah 20HR GENUINE Yuasa Lead Acid Rechargeable Battery NP6-12 | eBay

or

RMAAOSwLCdgGUXz">Power-Sonic 12V 3.4Ah Rechargeable Battery Caravan Solar Alarm Leisure PS1230 | eBay

my views are my personal choice, and is what i used on my fifferent classic lifeboats.

but this is an idea of what you need to get your model on the lake.

Edited By neil howard-pritchard on 05/02/2021 19:37:01

I am curious Neil.

Why can't you mount your receivers above the waterline?

On 2.4ghz I am careful not to sail behind big boats or obstructions but otherwise I have no problems and sail in harbours and open waters.

Tim R

The aerial needs to be both above the waterline and not hiding behind anything that either absorbs or deflects radio signals. Metal and wet wood are very good at deflecting signals and or absorbing them. With a 40 or 27 MHz aerial, it is difficult to hide it all away, most of it will be "visible" to the radio signal. With very high frequencies, and their resulting short wavelengths, it is easily possible to hide the entire working length, and thus lose the signal.

Older tech radios are line of sight, but that doesn't usually matter as you need to be able to see your boat to control it anyway. 2G4 is just rather more line of sight.

My home lake (Fairhaven) is salty, being primarily filled from the Irish Sea, but the only problems that any of my club members have run into with signal loss have invariably been traced to a radio whose aerial has migrated itself down into the lower parts of the hull. And on one occasion, the use of a "park flyer" radio. On a big lake, range can be a problem, but anything more than 200 yards I can't really see what the boat is doing well enough to claim to be controlling it anyway.

on the old classic lifeboats there is prescious little room because of the configuration of the usual well decks and the detail within the cabin……..the only place a receiver can sometines go is in the forward area of the cabin roof, but then again the 2,4 has a tendancy not to penetrate grp cabins, and also depending on the possition of the receiver and where one is standing, transmission signals won't penetrate or even bounce off salt water.

this was the first sail of one of mine fitted with brand new 4 channel 2.4ghz, and you can see the boat intermittantly stop and start on the video..it wasn't me. i brought the boat in and then enquired on mayhem, and someone told me to stick the receiver above waterline…….only place i could was the fore partt of the aft cabin………no change at all……so i sold all three sets and bought second hand 40mhz.

Mary Stanford, a model lifeboat – YouTube