Sarik Air Sea Rescue kit build by beginner

[Dave ReedParticipant @davereed72029]

Sarik Air Sea Rescue kit build by beginner

[Dave ReedParticipant @davereed72029]

Hi all,

I’m a beginner to boat models and thought it might be useful to other beginners to share my first kit build experience. I’m building the Sarik ASRL, Whaleback version (Sarik No:TW29) not the Vosper version.

There are 6 similar sized kits in the range on the Sarik web site, the Vosper kit has a magazine article by an experienced modeller in the photos. I’m using this and other invaluable information from people on this and other forums to get me on the right path.

I would like to invite experienced boat builders to comment, particularly when I’ve made mistakes so other beginners can learn from them.

So lets get started.

The kit contains:

Instructions, Hull, Deck ,Superstructure, Servo mount, Motor mount, Transparent windscreen, Transparent gun canopies x2, Gun mounts x2, Aerial (mast and cross member), Carley float, Plastic sheet for bulkheads / trim (33x23cm), Stand.

[Dave ReedParticipant @davereed72029]

Instructions: Not very comprehensive, just 10 points, giving general info.

Step 1: Trim deck to line indicated. There is a line moulded on the inner surface of the deck edge but it wanders up and down so I decided to leave that till later.

Step 2: Trim hull to line. The moulded line on the hull is straight but about 2.5mm thick – trim to top middle or bottom? It’s not clear, so I trimmed to top of line leaving the full 2.5mm on the hull so it could be trimmed further if necessary. I used scissors to cut the bulk of the material off, then a razor plane and sanded to smooth and level off.

Photo shows the hull cut line before cutting (pencil lines to make it easier to see).

[Dave ReedParticipant @davereed72029]

Back to step 1: I’m still not happy with the cut lines on the deck so I created my own. I made a simple tool with a piece of scrap ply, CD marker pen and tape. By holding this against the top of the deck and running around the edge, I got a new level cut line.

I then trimmed using the same method as the hull – scissors, plane, sand.

Tools used can just be seen in the background

[Dave ReedParticipant @davereed72029]

With the help of Stan The Knife (Mack was out of town) the deck openings were cut out.

That's where I am so far.

I had intended to be installing running gear today, but on reflection I need to get a more suitable motor. Had intended to use one from a 1980's Tamiya Hornet car but having removed it I think it's a bit too heavy and probably quite power hungry. Thinking something like a Mtroniks M400 is more suitable. Any suggestions welcome.

[Dave ReedParticipant @davereed72029]

Didn't have much time this evening, so cut some cardboard bulkheads from the templates provided so I could check the fit before cutting the real ones. Good job I did as none of them quite fit.

More cereal boxes will have to be sacrificed so I can get the shape right before cutting final material.

[Chris EParticipant @chrise]

Seems to be going well. Cardboard templates are a great idea which I also use extensively. Even then transferring the shape to the styrene results in a little fettling.

Think motor + prop + battery as a combination rather than just motor.

[Richard SimpsonParticipant @richardsimpson88330]

I use card templates an model railway scenery, a very useful and time, and material, saving technique.

[Cecil WebbParticipant @cecilwebb96087]

Posted by Sinking Feeling on 07/09/2022 22:40:41:

With the help of Stan The Knife (Mack was out of town) the deck openings were cut out.

That's where I am so far.

I had intended to be installing running gear today, but on reflection I need to get a more suitable motor. Had intended to use one from a 1980's Tamiya Hornet car but having removed it I think it's a bit too heavy and probably quite power hungry. Thinking something like a Mtroniks M400 is more suitable. Any suggestions welcome.

Nice work.

[Dave ReedParticipant @davereed72029]

Been away for a bit so no progress for a while.

Bulkheads.

I marked locations of bulkheads inside the hull and taped the deck into position to get the final shape of the hull. Then I cut card templates to check size and fit – sellotape tags in the centre help to move them in the restricted space. My card bulkheads had gaps to the hull and needed to be bigger, so I drew around them on new card then by eye added what I thought I needed to make them fit.

After a couple of goes I had the shape correct so cut them in the plastic sheet provided. They fit quite well.

Deck and bulkheads not glued up yet. Removed to allow for fitting of rudder and propshaft next.

[Dave ReedParticipant @davereed72029]

Propshaft: 7" M4

Rudder: Brass 'mini rudder' 40mm x 26mm

Also planning to use 400 size motor, universal joint coupling and 30mm or 35mm prop.

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Dave,

It looks like you have all the bits you need, just don't forget to cut some decent sized holes through your bulkheads for wiring and plugs etc , it's a devil of a job to do once you have cemented them in place

Regards Ray

[Chris EParticipant @chrise]

Before you glue down the decks is also a very good time to consider if you want to fit any buoyancy whilst you still have good access.

[Dave ReedParticipant @davereed72029]

This is an 'Oops' moment

I'm sure we've all heard the expression 'measure twice, cut once'. I'd like to add to that – 'measure EVERYTHING twice, cut once'. Now the bulkheads are cut and ready, I turned my attention to rudder, propshaft, motor etc. I've measured (twice) and cut holes for rudder and propshaft, it looks like they'll go in nicely.

Just one problem – fitting the motor right in the middle of the central bulkhead could be a little awkward. Obvious solution is a longer propshaft or cut a new bulkhead to fit in a new position about 1" towards the stern. I'm a bit of a skinflint so it looks like I need to cut up another cornflake box.

Oh well, another lesson learned.

Dave.

[Dave ReedParticipant @davereed72029]

I've dug myself into a bit of a hole here, sensible people might buy a longer propshaft and carry on but where's the fun in that? By the way, if anyone reading this is considering building this kit, I recommend a 10" propshaft to avoid this problem.

So I'm going to keep on digging my hole to see where it leads, which means mostly making it up as I go along for a while.

I drilled a hole for the rudder where it looked right (and was protected from me backing the boat into something hard) about 30mm from the stern. Rudder tube was glued in with epoxy top and bottom, a reinforcing plate added and glued in.

Next a slot was cut for the propshaft. I held the propshaft alongside the hull to 'guestimate' where it needed to be, drilled a hole at each end and cut between them. It seemed OK so I fixed the shaft into position with tape and glued with epoxy. The slot ended up about 145mm to 185mm from stern. Sufficient space was left between the end of the shaft and rudder to allow easy changing of the propeller.

I'll let the glue fully harden overnight then address the new bulkhead locations tomorrow. I'm considering leaving out the central bulkhead that conflicts with the motor position and replacing it with two others One between the motor and bow and one just aft of the motor end of the propshaft that will help support it.

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

I personally always like to have a bit more support internally for a rudder post, a small block of wood or even just a bit of ply. I always think a rudder is one of those things that can catch underwater objects and the leverage can break the glue around the hull.

Moving the bulkhead…no problem, blimey, buying another shaft! The expense!

Ashley

[Dave ReedParticipant @davereed72029]

I've been thinking about bulkhead positioning but have had a hard time making a final decision. As Wallace would say, ‘It's no use prevaricating about the bush’.

A decision needed to be made, so I made one (right or wrong remains to be seen). Put the bulkheads where they should be and use the centre one as the motor mount as well. So this is how it went:

1. Cut clearance hole in central bulkhead for motor
2. Fit and glue in all bulkheads
3. Search house for suitable motor mount to fix to bulkhead. Find aerosol cap in bathroom.
4. Chop it up, drill holes in it, fit to motor and glue to bulkhead with motor propped into position.

It seems to work OK, sent boat for a swim in the bath and it seems fairly well trimmed with the battery just forward of the motor, receiver and esc in mid section.
Next step, add fixings for battery, esc and receiver then look at build instructions that I’ve not seen for some time now!

[dave garrettParticipant @davegarrett24229]

hey guys i'm new to this hobby too,

i was looking at getting one of these as a rescue boat for my swordsman and my slo mo shun. Looking good so far it looks like a plastic model kit without all the detail, what glue are you using ? and do you think a jet drive will fit in there please ?

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Sinking:. Love the Aerosol cap! Looking good.

DG. A jet drive would not be a good fit for this boat as I reckon there would be too much weight aft.

Ashley

[Chris EParticipant @chrise]

This is coming along really nicely.

 

 

Dave Garrett

All the jet drives that I have seen require a flat floor section at the back of the hull for mounting the water inlet part of the jet. As this has a V floor you have a problem that will need plenty of work to resolve.

Edited By Chris E on 04/12/2022 09:11:31

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

SF- I thought the aerosol cap was ingenious as well, certainly different. Build is coming along nicely.

Dave – for a rescue boat something like a springer tug would be a better bet; slower, more manoeuvable and with a bit more oomph. You could fit arms to the front as well for collecting your other boats. How big is the Swordsman?

Chris

[Dave ReedParticipant @davereed72029]

I'm a bit of a "kitchen table" builder, don't have a dedicated build space and haven't had a chance to progress for a while.

[Dave ReedParticipant @davereed72029]

Hi Dave G,

I'm using a liquid poly cement for most of the kit parts. Where I'm gluing other non-polystyrene parts (eg propshaft) a 2 part Epoxy. Branded epoxy can get quite expensive but I did find some in the pound store for £1 – worth a try.

Dave

[Tim MoodyParticipant @timmoody76107]

Hi I am about to start my very first build and it is of this very boat. Could please tell me which servo you are going to use and as I know slightly less than nothing where the best place to buy all of the components from. Thanks

[Dave ReedParticipant @davereed72029]

Hi Tim,

I've fitted a micro-servo (often known as a 9g micro servo). You can get them from e-bay, Amazon etc. They're dead cheap and should be just about good enough for this size of boat. 

I'm pretty new to this myself so others may have better ideas for the servo.

One piece of advice though: I used a 7 inch propshaft which left the motor right in the middle of a bulkhead, not the best choice. Plan the layout before you buy components – propshaft length will determine motor location, other components will have to fit around it.

There are several suppliers out there (presumably you got your kit from one). I tend to buy from those that advertise in the Model Boats magazine but other builders will be able to suggest other options.

Edited By Sinking Feeling on 07/12/2022 18:58:14

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