Moonbeam – a novice’s attempt

[Andrew BiggsParticipant @andrewbiggs29914]

 

 

Have used most of the supplied parts for the cabins/hatchways, except for the roof of the small hatch at the bow and also the roof of the main cabin, on these some strip wood was used. Not quite certain about the colour/finish yet, a combination of varnish and paint perhaps? Had to raise the cockpit floor so it cleared the arm on the rudder servo.

 

Edited By Andrew Biggs on 04/08/2021 19:36:36

[Richard SimpsonParticipant @richardsimpson88330]

That's looking pretty smart Andrew. It makes into a lovely looking hull.

[Andrew BiggsParticipant @andrewbiggs29914]

I must agree with you Richard, it is a “proper yacht” shape, unlike many craft seen on the water today. Please don’t ask me about the current America’s Cup !

Like many traditional yachts, such as the J class etc, I feel it is over canvassed. The mast is only deck stepped and has no back stay. I’ve added a couple of additional deck eyes (not fitted on the photos above), that are near the gunwale and further astern from the existing chain plates. The plan is to add an additional tight wire shroud when the wind gets up, even though these will prevent the boom to go fully out when sailing down wind. I also want to organise the rigging, so it is relatively easy to remove the top/gaff sail and the forward jib, to keep the sail area down.

However, I’m having to think about a few issues with the rigging and am uncertain yet how to proceed, so am concentrating on the cabin and hatches. But won’t be able to put the rigging off once these parts are complete.

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Andrew,

Don't worry about the lack of a backstay, It will be just fine many sailing dinghies do not have them, they are used to bend the mast to adjust the shape of the sail, and yes and shrouds further back will prevent the boom having full travel for running before the wind.

Regards Ray

[Andrew BiggsParticipant @andrewbiggs29914]

The cabins are finished – I think – and seem a good tight fit into the cut outs in the deck. The next stage is the bow sprit and then I won't be able to avoid looking at the rigging. The two booms for the jibs have been made, as their positioning will be influenced by the length of the bow sprit. Do I need to consider buying a figure as a helm – a 1/24 scale figure would seem suitable?

[Andrew BiggsParticipant @andrewbiggs29914]

A little more progress and have added the rest of the deck fittings and bowsprit. Have also made the main boom and gaff. The mast and top mast are next, with the rigging following. Have been giving this some thought and feel a little more confident about starting this.

[Andrew BiggsParticipant @andrewbiggs29914]

The rigging has started. The first problem I realised that with the boat on the bench/table the ceiling is too low, once the top mast is added. So once this stage is reached there will be the need to use a much lower table.

The main shrouds are main from Dyneema Braided Fishing Line, which is 1mm dia and breaking strain off 300lb. The line used in the rigging blocks came with the kit. I intend to make the upper shrouds from Tronixpro Fishing Nylon Coated Trace Wire, which has a 50lb breaking strain. There will a second shroud, which will help support the mast when it becomes windy. The jib halyards will be a lighter weight Dyneema fishing line. There are one more toe rail casting to be added at the bow.

 

Edited By Andrew Biggs on 08/11/2021 17:47:34

[Andrew BiggsParticipant @andrewbiggs29914]

Rigging Photos

[Andrew BiggsParticipant @andrewbiggs29914]

Have continued with the rigging and have added the two jibs. This did take a bit of thinking, as I wanted to be able to remove them, even if they had to remain attached to their respective booms and the halyards will also be need to be threaded, as these are permanently attached to the head of the sail.

Have also started to consider adding an extra wire shroud – from the head of the lower mast, down to the extra fixing, which is to the aft of the chain plates – this will hopefully help pull the mast back and keep the jib luff tight. Each sail – including the mainsail – will have its own bowsie, so the relative setting of each sail can be adjusted.

[Richard SimpsonParticipant @richardsimpson88330]

This model is looking absolutely beautiful. I particularly like the way you have used authentic blocks to tension the shrouds rather than take the easy way out of using bottle screws.

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Andrew. This is building into a great model.

re figures from your earlier unanswered comment. I always advocate figures on a model. They add interest and a sense of scale. Unfortunately the eye is always drawn to figures on a deck, and far from intimating your vessel is not interesting, it would be elevated from a model boat sailing on the water to a model of the real thing, with a person on board.

One helms-person only on deck would look odd I think, but if placing more elsewhere is an issue, perhaps two at the wheel would be good. Just a suggestion.

Ashley

[Andrew BiggsParticipant @andrewbiggs29914]

Thanks for the comments – I'm trying to get the balance between a boat that sails but also looks "the part". I will continue to look for some figures, and maybe try one to get the scale right initally.

The rigging continues and its starting to get a bit big !

I'd hoped to make the topsail easy to remove, as its quite large and when the wind gets up, I can see the boat being over powered. However, this is proving very difficult, so may have to leave it permanently attached, but the halyard to the short spar on the top sail is adjustable, I may be able to ease this slightly to de-power the sail..

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

STUNNING is the only word i can think of.

[Andrew BiggsParticipant @andrewbiggs29914]

Thanks Neil but let’s wait and see how well it sails!

I’m still thinking about how to make the topsail easy to remove, also removing the top mast to make transport easier. The bow sprit does retract partly which will also help. The rig has been designed so it should be easy to drop the mast with the sails still attached. I’d like to try and keep the main/lower mast up, having the topsail and jibs removable.

Am beginning to realise that fishing tackle is a good source of clips and split rings etc. I feel a trip out the the local tackle shop will be required next week.

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Andrew,

You have made a fabulous job of your Moonbeam It's a good idea to be able to drop the topmast for transportation, with our barges it is common practice to have a pin through the base of the top mast just above the spreaders or crosstrees, although if it gets tangled on the barge it's a pain to sort out !!

This is my Veronica ready to go in the car.

Keep up the good work

Regards Ray

[Andrew BiggsParticipant @andrewbiggs29914]

Thanks Ray – your Thames Barge looks great and that approach was what I was aiming for. I visited the local fishing tackle shop today, the owner was really helpful and I was amazed at the range of hooks, rings etc that were available, as well as a range of cord and elastic.

Now have a plan !

[Andrew BiggsParticipant @andrewbiggs29914]

 

First Sail – at Fleetwood

 

 

 

 

 

The boat sailed quite well. The inside jib sheet did get caught of one of the air vents – perhaps it might be worth removing it? Also need to find a method to easy to tie the halyards to the rail. The top mast, and sail and bow sprit have to be removed so it will fit into the car. The main mast and small jib stay attached. The front jib does need a tighter forestay.

There is a video – click below, thanks.

Moonbeam sailing at Fleetwood

This last photo shows it sailing with just one jib and the mainsail. There was a touch of weather helm but think this could be partly resolved through the adjusting the relative sheeting between the two sails.

Edited By Andrew Biggs on 23/11/2021 18:46:16

Edited By Andrew Biggs on 23/11/2021 18:49:16

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Andrew,

She looks good on the water, you must be pleased If you need any more power from your sails you could slacken off the out hauls on all your booms to get a better aerofoils shape in the sails and more drive, as she is well set up for sailing in strong winds with the sails flat as you have them.

What are you building next

Regards Ray

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

Looks beautiful Andrew.

Colin

[Richard SimpsonParticipant @richardsimpson88330]

Absolutely stunning. That is just my type of model yacht, elegant and graceful with a scale look and a realistic performance.

Fantastic job.

[Andrew BiggsParticipant @andrewbiggs29914]

Thanks for the comments. It does look like a "real" yacht from the 1920's and inspired by the likes of Shamrock. If you asked a child to draw a yacht – this is what they would produce.

I've joined Fleetwood model boat club – which has a purpose built lake. However, there are two problems – its salt water (they have a hose pipe or its in the bath at home for a wash down) the second is that its right on the coast, so tends to be windy, therefore being able to reduce sail is a necessity. I may also look at having some removable ballast, in the way of lead shot in a bag, which can be added on windy days. I did have some water inside, which probably gets in around the removeable cabin roofs. Will have a think about a solution.

It is possible to adjust the shape of the topsail and main (to a certain extent) and on the next outing, I do need to experiment a bit more. The front jib's halyard does also need to be tighter. There is another thread on this forum by Banjoman – who has made a first class job of building a Moonbeam. There were several tips I picked up and certainly this has helped considerably.

I've recently taken delivery of a Katie hull from Sarik models.

Katie (Gaff Rig Pilot Cutter) – By David Alderton – Hull – Sarik Hobbies – for the Model Builder

Am looking at using two winches – one for the main/topsail and another to control the jibs. Think there will be a need for some card templates first and some thinking !

[geconParticipant @gecon]

Hi Andrew, Moonbeam looks superb! Very graceful on the water.

To reduce snagging on cowl vents and deck hatches you can make small cages from brass tube. A loop fore/aft and pt/stbd from the deck and up across the top of the structure. This guides the sheet up and over the structure (most of the time!) when tension is applied to it.

Can't remember what it's called just now, but someone here will come up with the word I'm sure! Mabe it is a 'cowl cage'? Hatch cage?

George

Edited By gecon on 25/11/2021 15:54:58

[Andrew BiggsParticipant @andrewbiggs29914]

Thanks George, sounds a sensible solution

I was thinking of replacing the cowl vents on the front hatch with a lower dome style vent. But will give it som3 thought

also looking at how to ensure the hatch’s seal better. The only one that really needs to be easy to remove is the rear cabin one, therefore the others can be more securely fitted.

[geconParticipant @gecon]

Andrew, I think you can buy scale 'tannoy' (?) vents from modelshops (CMB etc). You can also make them from….dare I say it…the tops of the alloy securing clamp on champagne/bubbly-wine bottles. There's a nice alloy dome at the top which can be drilled and formed easily.

So, about three 'low-profile' alloy vents being produced this weekend then? You'll be low-profile too by sunday evening.

Hatches can be sealed / made watertight by utilising cling-film and clear silicone -or water resistant wood glue.

I assume the hatch fits over a raised ridge around the opening in the deck? The cling-film prevents the hatch being stuck on for ever! And is removed once the silicone/wood glue has set. Ray is the clingfilm expert on the forum I would say. 

Soft-ish wax of the type used to lubricate zippers can be be effective if smeared onto the hatch -or deck- raised edges, when the silcone/wood glue has set.  

Going back to bed now zzzzzzz. 

George

 

Edited By gecon on 26/11/2021 03:12:52

[Andrew BiggsParticipant @andrewbiggs29914]

Excellent idea about using cling film George. I was thinking about smearing a thin layer of Vaseline on first to hopefully achieve the same result. I can see some tests coming on!

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