Ageing a model is most interesting, I have seen modellers rubbing fag ash into nearly drry paint and using paint a shade lighter in areas where the sun would have faded the original, but if you look at Royal Navy ships returning from a long patrol, you will see great streaks of orange running down from areas of superstructure where rainwater picks up pigment from rusty metal and deposits it again where it runs. Dry brushing is a technique I learned when I took up watercolour painting, it is where you dip a dry brushinto thick paint and apply it to the surface where you want a feint but streaky effect like grasses or the edge of clouds. the idea is to apply the paint in very quick strokes allowing hardly any paint to stick.  Look at old vehicles with an artist’s eye and work it out for yourselfwhat you see.  I remember returning to Portsmouth in an aircraft carrier after a passage through the Bay of Biscay, and we had hit a wave so large that it tore the catwalks off both sides, so an element of damage is quite authentic. You should see what a big wave does to a 20 tonne aircraft sitting on the flight deck.

   I feel quite queasy now……….Mike D

Have a look at the rust on my Great Eastern…..in my gallery

Bob Abell

Hi Ron,

 Dry brushing is a technique used extensively by military modelers I’m sure Vinnie can give you directions!

 The technique is used is to dip the brush in the paint and then wipe it off ! !  A good indication of weather (!) you have it right is to draw the brush across your finger tip – it should bring out your fingerprint perfectly. You can then apply to the model, do not expect a dramatic change – you can build up gradually to get the perfect result.

A perfect illustration is to brush the edge of a metal surface with aluminium colour  (silver is too bright). Thus representing where the paint has worn from perhaps foot traffic.

Another technique used is washes. To do this you need a drop of black/grey/brown (depending on the effect desired). Add large amounts of thinner until youre looking at tinted thinners. This is then painted liberaly across the surface – the colour collects on the corners / edges leaving a stain.

From experience I would use oil based paints (humbrol). The reason being if you have sealed / varnished the surface and youre not happy with the effect it can be washed off with thinners. I find acrylics dry too quickly.

Dont try and do it all at once – build it up in layers.

Hope this has been some help

Regards Kevin

Hi Kevin,

I used the same technique with thinner as Ron described back in the day when I used to build 1/35 tanks and such, but with one small difference. I first applied a little drop of thinner to the edge I wanted to add rust or shadow to then with a toothpick took a little bit of paint and touched it to the thinner. The paint then flowed out into the thinner and deposited itself along the cracks and edges. The trick is to get the thinner to run into the cracks and not all over as this will concentrate the effect to where you want it. 

For an all over weathered look try Rons approach with some white or light grey color mixed in. Also his idea about wearing down to the metal has an amazing impact as long as you know when to say when! The risk is that you have too much fun with it!

For dark smudges such as you would find around exhausts and guns I use a soft pencil and work it with a finger tip or a bit of papper towel. Good luck!

Pete