second plank layer problem

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second plank layer problem

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  • #2877
    Antony Wright 1
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      @antonywright1
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      #84424
      Antony Wright 1
      Participant
        @antonywright1

        I did debate about asking this question in one of my other queries but decided to keep it separate. I have done a quick search of the net but not seen anything specific to this problem, though I may be just asking the wrong question.

        Ive completed the first layer of planks on my first ship and have sanded it to get a reasonable surface for the next layer of planks. Now this second layer is very thin as in 0.6mm thick, (I'm sure that is probably the norm for 2nd layer for a small boat). Anyway when I come to do the planking, despite having it soaked to make it more pliable, I'm having an issue getting it to sit properly.

        It buts up to the first plank no problem but the opposite edge just seems to stand out on the curved areas instead of sitting flat along the curvature of the hull, (there is a gap between it and the hull). So first off what am I doing wrong? Secondly how do I correct it? Third recommendations for glue to solve said issue if I'm using the wrong stuff? (I'm currently using a white wood glue).

        Sorry for all the questions but I have to start somewhere.

        #84425
        Tim Rowe
        Participant
          @timrowe83142

          Anthony

          The basic problem is that planks are flat and will bend in one plane easily you are trying to make them conform to a hull that is curved in two planes.

          If you look at the planking on a full sized boat you will see that most of them are tapered towards the bow and stern. To get your planks to lay flat you will have to do the same.

          I find the easiest way to visualize this is to think of a wooden barrel. Each stave (plank) is tapered but in a slight curve towards each end to get the barrel shape. The edges of the "planks" are also beveled so they sit tight against each other through the width of the plank. You won't need to put the bevel on a plank only 0.6mm thick though.

          A boat hull shares a lot of characteristics with a barrel.

          Google and YouTube will find you planking in action.

          Tim R

          #84426
          Colin Bishop
          Moderator
            @colinbishop34627

            It's easier if you are preparing the hull to be painted as you can always fill in any small gaps.

            As Tim says, the planks will only really bend in one dimension so if you lay them flat then this can result in gaps appearing at bow and stern where the curvature is greater. To get over this you can insert 'stealers' which are wedge shaped short planks into the gaps.

            Pleanty of info on line such as this:

            **LINK**

            Superphatic or Aliphatic glues are very good for planking as they have a quick grab time and Superphatic will wick into joints between the planks as well as between plank and surface. They are water clean up so any excess can simply be wiped off with a damp cloth.

            Colin

            Edited By Colin Bishop on 10/11/2019 14:22:46

            #84432
            Banjoman
            Participant
              @banjoman

              Antony,

              You will find a great deal of relevant information at the Model Ship World articles page on framing and planking, here: **LINK**.

              It might well take you several hours to go through it all, and some further mulling things over may also be needed, but I think you will find it worth the time and effort.

              Mattias

              Edited By Banjoman on 11/11/2019 12:58:01

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