If you have a pin vice and very small drill bits then you could drill up into the soles of the feet of the crew and glue in a piece of brass wire as a peg. Then glue this into a corresponding small hole into the deck.

Colin

Graeme

I have been using Evostick Serious Glue recently for this sort of problem . I still put the brass rod up the heel but use the serious glue to stick the feet to the deck. It's quite thick and holds after about 10 mins but sets overnight. If want to move it afterwards a palette knife releases it and residue can be removed from the paintwork with a cotton bud and white spirits

Tim

Graeme

On my recent models, the figures, if they are not small scale, have a 1<1.5mm dia. brass peg out of the bottom of a foot, which goes through the deck, which if planked will be on the caulking, and the figure is then held with a spring and collet underneath the deck, so no glue is needed and the hole is within the black caulking if the figure ever has to be removed permanently.

Alternatively, put the figure on a suitable grating, perhaps by a gangway, or behind the steering wheel, or in front of a doorway – the 'hole' will be easily lost in the grating's spaces and the deck underneath is not damaged by glue.

The advantage of 'spring-loading' a figure is that it moves when one, as is inevitable, brushes a hand against it when fiddling around inside the model as I have frequently discovered.

Paul Freshney

Graeme. As the disclaimer on the packaging reads…best try it on a bit of either unobtrusive deck first, or just put a couple of coats of varnish on a scrap bit of wood, allow to dry and then test.

​All the figures on my landers are fixed with big blobs of hot glue (as they are toy soldiers, they have big flat bases) and generally they peel of no probs from household dark grey undercoat. Using tiny blobs of best quality varnish I would expect no problems. Getting a very small blob may take a bit of experimenting!!

Ashley