repairing damaged Bow

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4 May 2014 at 19:19 #48675
Empire Parkstone
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@empireparkstone
Hi what is the easiest way to repair small pinholes in the Bow I ran my Pt boat into the edge of the concrete pond I thought I had only chipped the paint but alas no. I found todays run she took on some water albeit nowt disastrous and looking inside the hull to the bow I can see a vertical strip app1''x1/2'' inch the shape of the external damage kind of a mesh and light shining through. The chances ofgetting at it fro the inside probably not possible child might get its arm in.Was thinking maybe milliput or similar over the external area and sanding but this would be an extremely thin layer. Dumb thought but some kind of liquid stuff? poured inside and the boat held up might work if that were posible /Will try and get a pic up

Thanks
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4 May 2014 at 19:19 #2388
Empire Parkstone
Participant
@empireparkstone
4 May 2014 at 19:39 #48676
Bob Abell 2
Participant
@bobabell2
Can you varnish it?

Bob
4 May 2014 at 19:52 #48677
Colin Bishop
Moderator
@colinbishop34627
The best thing, as you say would be to prop the boat up vertically and drip some epoxy (either resin or adhesive) into the inside of the bow. Use a stick to spread it where it is needed. If you can get hold of a bit of glassfibre tissue then work this into the mix or even ordinary Kleenex tissue will do (not loo paper) to reinforce it. When it is set you can repair the external chipped area with filler. It should be as good as new then.

Colin
4 May 2014 at 22:24 #48678
Empire Parkstone
Participant
@empireparkstone
Thanks to both replies Colin can you name the substance as I find epoxy etc double dutch . and what about heat might that occur

Thanks

John
4 May 2014 at 22:49 #48680
Colin Bishop
Moderator
@colinbishop34627
Just get a tube of Araldite 5 minute epoxy or similar and follow the mixing instructions which are 50/50.

**LINK**

You won't get any heat problems, it's just a regular adhesive.

If you buy epoxy resin you will need to buy far more than you need for the job.

Colin
4 May 2014 at 23:18 #48682
Malcolm Frary
Participant
@malcolmfrary95515
If pouring or applying epoxy (resin) from the inside, make sure that there is a smoothly applied layer of sticky tape on the outside. My personal preference would be to use slower setting epoxy, and as runny a mix as possible to try to get the resin mix as far into the damage as possible. If you are a lucky lad, the epoxy might just pass through any holes and be caught by the tape. With real luck, you might get a surface almost ready for paint (sanding, priming, usual stuff). If the damaged area is positioned so that it is at the lowest point, gravity can do most of the work for you with a runny enough mix.
5 May 2014 at 00:29 #48685
Empire Parkstone
Participant
@empireparkstone
Thanks Colin but you cant pour that or can you? I would not be able to spread it

Thanks Malcom but which epoxy please they all seem the same to me
5 May 2014 at 10:55 #48697
Malcolm Frary
Participant
@malcolmfrary95515
Last time I attempted such a repair, I wandered into B&Q and looked for "30 minute epoxy". It worked. I do much the same when setting a prop shaft outer in place, but since access is usually much easier in that case, I use the really cheap stuff as found on market "tool" stands. It really isn't rocket science, and apart from the claimed setting times, they appear much the same to me as well.

BTW, the other purpose of the tape, apart from trying for a handy finish, is to stop the model glueing itself to whatever it is standing on. DONT ASK.
5 May 2014 at 11:07 #48698
Colin Bishop
Moderator
@colinbishop34627
When you mix the two parts of epoxy adhesive, it is about as runny as syrup until it begins to set. If you can see the affected area from the inside as you say you can, then all you need to do is to make up a bit of bent wire (e.g. from a coat hangar )with a makeshift small pad on the end (e.g. cotton bud or similar), dip the pad into the epoxy and then just drip it into the affected area until you have built up a reasonable thickness where it will level out and set. You can move the hull around a bit to get it flow over all of the damaged area.

As Malcolm says, the 30 minute type of epoxy might be better as it gives more working time, especially if it is a bit fiddly to place the adhesive where it needs to go.

Colin
5 May 2014 at 19:07 #48711
ashley needham
Participant
@ashleyneedham69188
Malcolm. We dont have to ask, I am sure there are a fair few of us that have done just that.

My building board is a bit of smooth surface kitchen top. It is nice and flat and not much really sticks to it very well.

Ashley
5 May 2014 at 19:33 #48715
Empire Parkstone
Participant
@empireparkstone
Thanks but still need a product name please . just epoxy resin means squat there is so much out there and few seem suitable cant see how 2 wee tubes produce a runny liquid. If it were easy access I'd probaly use duc tape
5 May 2014 at 19:47 #48718
ashley needham
Participant
@ashleyneedham69188
Araldite or Devcon are common two part glues. It is runny but not runny-runny like fibreglass resin (which you could use…car repair FASTGLASS is a brand from halfords or car part shops) however resin IS fairly runny and the hull would have to be kept moving to keep the resin in the damaged area until it goes off (10 mins or so on a nice day)

Ashley
5 May 2014 at 19:53 #48719
Colin Bishop
Moderator
@colinbishop34627
Well, you could try Araldite which I have already suggested, then there is B&Q as suggested by Malcolm, Devcon, JB Weld, Bostik , Wilko, the stuff from your local Pound Shop and lots of other types. It's not exactly hard to get! Just go to somewhere which sells glue and ask for 5 minute or 30 minute epoxy adhesive. I really don't see how we can help you any more than that. And if it wasn't runny then it wouldn't come out of the tube would it?

Duct/Duck tape would be useless as the water would be coming in from underneath it and would obviously lift the tape which is designed to repel water from the external surface.

Best of luck with the repair anyway.

Colin
5 May 2014 at 20:14 #48720
Empire Parkstone
Participant
@empireparkstone
OK thanks will have a shufti I just dont want to put something on that dont work and cant get off the area is about half a teaspoon split lengthways and pinholesJohn
15 May 2014 at 19:11 #48960
Empire Parkstone
Participant
@empireparkstone
Well ran her today not a drop of water intake I used Milliput on the external bow and a big dollop inside Tough wood thanks to all for their input
16 May 2014 at 09:28 #48973
Martin Field 1
Participant
@martinfield1
I use Milliput or my pattern making, but I'm aware of its limitations and on some surfaces it doesn't stick that well, so I'd still get a pack of 5 or 30 minute Epoxy and go round the edge of you big dollop inside with a bent wire as Colin suggested. Externally a thin layer of Milliput, rubbed down and painted should be fine until the next knock, when it'll crumble/flake off where it's thin.

The rapid epoxies like the Poundshop types stay quite rubbery which is what you want on such a repair.

Martin
16 May 2014 at 12:46 #48982
Empire Parkstone
Participant
@empireparkstone
Thanks Martin duly noted
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