Hi Norman,

There are lots of options and a pop rivet with the mandrel removed would probably be OK if the corners of the hole are smoothed off. If you are just looking for the sheet to go vertically through the deck and up to the boom it would probably work quite well.

There are various commercially available fittings which do the job. However you have to go to a yachting specialist rather than the normal model boat suppliers. If you look on the Nylet website (http://www.nylet-sails.co.uk/index.html) or Sails etc website (http://www.sailsetc.com/fithull.htm) under fairleads or sheet leads you will find a number of options.

If the sheet has to run horizontally under the deck and then out horizontally over it you can use 1/8 inch diam brass tubing bent to a suitable shape, as on my wife's latest restoration shown below. Just heat the tubing up to a dull red heat before trying to bend it.

Alternatively you can buy through deck pulleys as on her Marblehead as shown below

Regards,

Gareth

Norman,

I see you have started two threads on this topic, see the other one for my answer. Hi Gareth, you show what I just tried to describe.

Kim

Threads merged – Colin

Edited By Colin Bishop, Website Editor on 30/03/2013 14:40:35

Hi Norman,

I have just been fitting the sailwinch in my wife's latest restoration job which is a 1952 Daniels designed Razorbill. It has languished in various sheds, garages and attics awaiting completion for about 50 years. I have taken a few photos today which might add a bit of further explanation if you are still considering what to do on your model.

The system uses a Hitec sail arm servo mounted centrally in the hull.

The sheets run aft inside the hull and come through the deck near the stern using a through deck pulley. Note there is only one sheet fitted at present but it illustrates the idea.

Heres the pulley before fitting.

The sheet then runs forward to an eyebolt mounted in the deck the apppropriate distance from the mast. You have to juggle the figures from the length and angular movement of the sail arm and the position of the eyebolt so that the swing of the sail boom is about 80 degrees either side of the centreline. If you are not sure how to do this build a little wooden mockup and experiment on the bench. Its much easier than trying to do it with the sail servo in the boat and ending up with lots of trial and error holes drilled in your deck.

The sheet length needs to be adjustable and the usual method is to use bowsies. In this case the length of line pulled in by the servo is greater than the distance between the through deck pulley and the eyebolt so a bowsie in that section would jam the line at one end or the other. I have therefore put the adjustment inside the boat, along the sail arm. Its slightly less convenient since it means you have to remove the main hatch to make the adjustment but once its set it should be OK for a while. The sheet to the jib is much longer and there will be plenty of room above the deck to put the adjustment bowsie in that section.

Edited By Gareth Jones on 05/04/2013 15:45:17

Edited By Gareth Jones on 05/04/2013 15:47:10

HI Larry,

The nickel plated eyebolt and the through deck pulley are from Nylet. The small brass eyebolt in the sail arm is from Modelling Timbers.

Regards

Gareth