Hi Peter

Yes you can use larger pieces of balsa or even 2mm ply to skin this model the easiest way to cut out the right shapes is to make card templates of how the skin should fit to the frame (once the frame is complete) and then transfer the template shapes onto the wood for cutting.

The hardest part to skin with larger sheets is the fine flaired section at the bottom of the bow, at this point most model builders don’t try to bend wood round the very tight curves but instead glue in a solid piece of timber / balsa and carve the shape to suit.

Glassing a hull is never a good idea as it leaves a rough surface and besides if your models frame is rigid enough then the skin should not flex to much.

Hope this helps

Paul

Peter, With 2mm ply probly not, but it might be an option if after finishing the hull you decide a bit more stiffness might be wanted.
Scale speeds?? no no no. a big fat motor is whats required, its an MTB after all !!! Ashley

Hi Peter,

            I’ve used fibreglass resin inside many balsa hulls and never had any problems, even on hulls 20 years old. I always make sure that I get the resin into all the hiden areas, under the deck, inside the bow etc.

     As to finishing the outside, there are almost as many ideas as to the best way to do this as there are people doing it. I’ve tried many of them but my favourite is to brush in many coats of thinned varnish. It soaks right down into the wood and helps stabelise it.

  The balsa hull can be very light and strong, ideal if you want to go quickly.

 Chas

Hi Peter

Try using 10mm exterior quality ply for the keel and frames and 2mm ply for the skin, don’t be tempted to nail the skin on but instead use a 2 pack epoxy glue (very strong and won’t come apart if it gets wet) when fixing the skins start from the stern and go slowly forward using clamps to hold the skin in place whilst the glue sets.

Paul 

Peter, just to get back to the motor choice, 2x 540`s should be ok, but beware , there are loads of different types at this size, some are really really juicy and inefficient..your buggy ones are likely to be fairly powerful, but I would stick an ammeter on them (no esc, just a battery) to see what current they draw. As to props, it depends whether you want a nice scale set on there or a speedy set. 35mm brass 3 blade props are about right for a 540, may be a touch small looking on your model though. If you choose mounts suitable for 500 and 600 size motors and 4mm shafts, and leave clearance for,say, a 45mm prop size then you will be covered for experimentation on all counts if your initial set up is inadequate. A set of 2-blade race type props would deliver best performance, but tend to draw max amps from the motor. I should get a new set of NiMh cells though, depending on how old your Nicads are they are likely to be past their best now.. A shop person I spoke to rated the Graupner 600ECO motors, as being powerful but not too "ampy" especially if not loaded with too big a propeller.

Chas, like the cine camera tip, 

Mike, I like the idea of poring in the resin and sloshing around.. i usually paint mine on, but of course you always miss bits like that.   Ashley