Virgin Atlantic challenger 2

[Nick Watson 2Participant @nickwatson2]

Hi everyone,hope you like my representation of vac2.couldnt find any plans to build from,so its built from an old hull(originally was a copy of the italian challenger)so not quite the right shape.ive modified the stern to make it close to real thing.couldn't find a supplier for the drives,so i made my own.work really well as long as your not heavy handed.superstructure built from balsa scaled up from a drawing I did from a photo. Not an exact copy but close enough for me.part of the fun of our hobby with a dash of poetic license.

[Nick Watson 2Participant @nickwatson2]

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Hi Nick and is it welcome to the forum? I see you have two albums already!

​Very interesting, and having just looked at pictures of the real thing, a good representation at the rear. Do I presume the cowls are for steering, and if so how effective are they? Also do you use differential prop control.
​Ashley

Edited By ashley needham on 03/02/2018 10:16:22

[Nick Watson 2Participant @nickwatson2]

Hi Ashley,yes she steers very well with them.no need for differential prop control,both motors run up proportional to each other, obviously they contra rotate. The more power you put on the quicker she turns,very much like the real vc2 its designed go in a straight line rather than sharp turns,but it will spin out an bite you if you get too heavy with the rudder stick. Took a bit of work to get it right,also prop choice was a big bug bear.thanks for the welcome.

[Nick Watson 2Participant @nickwatson2]

[Nick Watson 2Participant @nickwatson2]

Hope fully these are better shots

[Nick Watson 2Participant @nickwatson2]

Hope fully these are better shots

[John W EParticipant @johnwe]

hi ya Nick intriguing build – looks interesting the twin drives and rudders – as far as plans go there are a set of semi scale plans for the Virgin atlantic 2 boat issued with model boats mag, back in the 1980s – which I built my version from – and so have several others on this Forum. Although this version is only single prop, it suffers from cavitation if you try to do tight turns with it A member of this forum has managed to rectify this problem by fitting a standard dagger type rudder instead of the horseshoe. Here is a link to one or two of the builds on this forum which you may find interesting.
http://www.modelboats.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=52626

[John W EParticipant @johnwe]

just been trying to get the link to work – but I cant for some reason – my browser isn't allowing me to copy and paste it properly. Maybe Mr Bishop will be able to put it right – or if you wish – just type in the search box Virgin Atlantic 2 and this brings up several postings on the topic.

John

[Nick Watson 2Participant @nickwatson2]

Thanks bluebird for the feedback,I had cavitations issues to start with.found the cure was to use a hydro style prop.I ran my miss bud replica on an s and an x type prop and all it did was cav. Wouldn't even get up on plane.switched to a hydro style and it thrives on cavitations an goes like stink.when I was building the vac2 I spoke to a really helpful guy in Germany called Klaus who is the design engineer for the company that builds the full size drives,according to him you need a multi blade cleaver style prop or one that's designed for semi surface drives.a hydroplane prop. That's what mine has and you can turn as tight as you like,to the point it will spin 180 degrees if I push way too hard.

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Very true regarding x and hydro style props. I have a hydro prop fitted to the Pontoon boat, and although it doesn't look a lot different to an X, it does make the difference on the water.

Ashley

[Nick Watson 2Participant @nickwatson2]

Morning everyone, like you say Ashley,visibly there doesn't seem to be much difference between the two,in the water it's like chalk an cheese. My vac2 runs American occurs beryllium copper x442,left and right hand,but they have been reshaped to mimic hydro style.little bit more expensive but well worth it.all part of the fun though,especially when it finally comes right. If I hadn't tried both styles of prop one after the other I wouldn't have beloved the difference. Nick

[Nick Watson 2Participant @nickwatson2]

I was interested in the difference it made to your hydro pontoon,especially when you switched to lipo power.the hydro style props do seem to like lots of power.lots of prop wash,I get big rooster tails off all 3 boats. The biggest problem I had after sorting the props was getting the two drive's perfectly lined up,or else it fought it's self in a straight line and made a big difference to straight line speed.

[Nick Watson 2Participant @nickwatson2]

[Nick Watson 2Participant @nickwatson2]

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

It is just a shame that the hydro props are expensive, and generally dog-driven, preventing easy swapping between types.

​Cornwall model boats lists some Graupner plastic hydro props that simply screw on and are cheap.. I may get a few representative sizes, you never know. Need to keep them labelled as Hydro props though.

Ashley

[Nick Watson 2Participant @nickwatson2]

Another supplier whose very helpfull and has large supply of graupner props as well,is Tony,who runs model marine supplies. He was the fellow who supplied,polished and balanced the props on mine.he also supplied me with the hydro props on the jaguar and miss bud replica.changing the subject slightly, its a shame the magazine doesn't have a page or two for fast electric. I know space is tight,maybe an idea for the future?regards Nick

[Nick Watson 2Participant @nickwatson2]

hi everyone.getting there.back on the water for another test run tommorow.time to get the detailing done and decals.anybody have any ideas for the hand rails? Was thinking about using stiff copper wire?

[Byron Rees…(Ron)Participant @byronrees-ron]

Hi all,

I run all my brushless motors on Hydro props, mainly Graupner plastic two bladers. It sometimes helps to drop down a millimetre or two in diameter than you would think as this lets the motors run at a better speed as they are designed to. I get all my screw on hydro props from Gliders UK…very good stock and service.

Cheers………Ron.

[Nick Watson 2Participant @nickwatson2]

[Nick Watson 2Participant @nickwatson2]

[Nick Watson 2Participant @nickwatson2]

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Nick. I would not use copper wire, as copper is horrible stuff for oxidising and corroding. Besides which it is difficult to get a nice smooth curve with it.

​Brass wire is the usual stuff, or if using stanchions with holes in, galvanised garden wire.

​Ashley

[Eddie LancasterParticipant @eddielancaster]

What about stainless steel gas welding rods? I get mine from the local welding supplies, 1.5, 2 and 3mm dia. £1 for 8 pieces.

Eddie.

[John W EParticipant @johnwe]

 

hi there

If you have a look at the Virgin Atlantic which I built – look at the railings – they are made from copper wire. In actual fact the wire is 15 amp twin core & earth grey wire with all the insulation stripped off. Each copper strand was cut into several lengths approximately 2 foot long and then one end of each piece of wire was secured in a vice, and I gripped the other end of the copper wire with a pair of pliers and then pulled taut to stretch the copper wire and also straighten it. At the same time I wrapped a piece of wire wool around the wire and pulled it along the wire to abrade it. This helps the adhesion of the paint when you paint it. The thinner rails are made from 5 amp bell wire – stretched out in the same way and treated with the same method with the wire wool I have used this method of about 45 years on each model that required railings of all scales and it works for me. The only time I have had harassment of corrosion is when I have been 'too lazy' to clean the flux off the solder joints which then – in turn – in a couple of weeks time leaves a green gunge around the joint. just some food for thought.

John

Edited By John W E on 10/04/2018 17:06:24

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