Suitable Paint for a static timber model boat

[John Arnold 3Participant @johnarnold3]

I am currently building my very first timber model boat from a Billings kit (Bluenose).

I have at last completed building the hull and after using timber putty to fill holes left from pins and minor imperfections in the planking I am quite pleased with the result.

Now I need to paint the hull. The exterior is usually black above the water line and a rusty red/brown color below the water line.

I am not near any large hobby store to purchase model paint and I am wondering if the use of ACRYLIC (water based) paints from a hardware store (suitable for painting the exterior and interior of a house) would work.

The paint is labeled as –

A water based craft and decorative paint with a durable gloss finish that is suitable for use on both interior and exterior applications.

The advanced 'no brush marks' formula makes White Knight Splashes easy to use on surfaces such as suitably prepared timber, metal, ceramics, fibreglass and glass.

[John Arnold 3Participant @johnarnold3]

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

John. As you are building a static boat, then really almost any paint will be ok, as long as it has the finish that you desire (ie gloss/matt/whatever)

​Unless I am going to spray a topcoat from rattle cans (which for safeties sake I like to use the same makers primer) t always use common household paints/primers/undercoats. My various landing craft and several ships are in fact covered simply grey undercoat….thinned to prime, and have no further finishes on top. They have stood the test of time admirably.

​Red oxide primer (for the rusty red/brown below the waterline) is virtually the standard boat colour for this area on most displacement type hulls….liners..warships etc

​An alternative to consider might be artists acrylics, from an art shop. Come in various finishes, and the waterproofness or otherwise of them in your case is not an issue.

Ashley

[John Arnold 3Participant @johnarnold3]

Thanks Ashley

I was hoping for such a reply.

I hadn't thought of artists paints and I have a large artist supplies shop in my hometown so shall have a look there.

Yes Red oxide primer would be an exact match of pictures I have seen however all the red oxide primer I have seen are solvent based and is FLAT. The pictures i have seen of the real boat and of models appear that the paint below of water line is glossy. Certainly the black above the water line is glossy. Maybe a clear gloss coat over the top? Have you seen this done? Does acrylic paint 'like' solvent based undercoats?

Have a look at this model of the Bluenose II **LINK**

Lastly I am wondering about the narrow white line at the water line and how best to do that? Maybe a roll of 'pinstripe tape'?

Regards

John

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

John. The paint finish on this one is up to you. Go glossy or go drab, your choice. Models such as the link are desktop ones bulled up for shininess, hence the gloss red oxide colour.

​Anyone making a working model would slap the red oxide on and leave it semi-matt as it comes, or. as it does scuff easily (giving pale scuff marks, cosmetic only) a coat of matt or semi-matt varnish to seal it.

Household or artists acrylic paints are likely to be quite happy over any undercoat. It seems to be the spray acrylics that are fussy. I believe you should be able some good gloss acrylic varnished from your art suppliers, but something like "RONSEAL" clear acrylic interior varnish will be fine.

​Yes pinstripe tape is by far the easiest way to get a thin crisp "boot topping".

​Ashley

[John Arnold 3Participant @johnarnold3]

Thanks again Ashley,

Wow I just found something about this web site I don't like. I had just about finished entering my reply and decided to click on your 'image' to see if I could find the country you live in and then clicked on your boats. When I returned all I had typed in had vanished so I will try again.

Yes in real life the paint on a hull below the water line never appears glossy and that above the water line is semi gloss at best. Looking at the real Bluenose II (it lives in Nova Scotia, Canada and I saw it once) the hull doesn't look shiny.

After viewing 'your boats' I am gob smacked as I presume that you built them all. Where do you keep them all or have you given some away or sold them?

Have a Merry Christmas

John

[John Arnold 3Participant @johnarnold3]

Here is a video of the real one which shows the hull not shiny.

**LINK**

Regards

John

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

John. Yes, if you leave your post it all disappears!

​Yes I did build them all, and apart from two, I have them all still. Apart from perhaps half-a-dozen, they have also been built without plans either, especially the "funny" ones, which generally only get a sketch/drawing and a bootful of imagination. They reside in boxes mostly and are double stacked (or treble in a few cases) in my workshop (I call it a shed but it is a bit bigger than a shed) on shelves. Since re-roofing the shed I have loads of room, all dry, and the boxes are labelled up. Anyone who has seen the layout will no doubt testify as to the efficiency of the method. Flying boats are hitched up in the ceiling out the way.

​It would be nice if you filled in your profile as its nice to see where everyone is. I don't think that a few generalities gives much away to those morons looking to pinch someone's identity.

Ashley

[John Arnold 3Participant @johnarnold3]

Thanks again Ashley

I found My Details which I assume is same as 'profile' and filled it in.

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

John, Cant see your profile. Its the public profile you need to fill in and make available. Ashley

[John Arnold 3Participant @johnarnold3]

Sorry missed the link. Hopefully it is there now.

[John Arnold 3Participant @johnarnold3]

Can't remember if I asked before.

Have you ever used balsa wood in any models?

Did you have any problems sealing it to paint? I used to build flyable aircraft using balsa years agi and used to use DOPE to seal and harden but I haven't seen it around for a long time.

Regards

[John Arnold 3Participant @johnarnold3]

Sorry just realised I didn't qualify my last post regarding the use of balsa wood.

I am considering using a 1mmx4mm strip of BALSA for the deck railing since the piece supplied in the kit, pine wood, is only 0.5mmx4mm and is not thick enough as it butts an adjacent (bow) piece which is 1mm thick. Mind you the instruction manual lists it as 1mm thick – so annoying.

Note the following. The railing strip is marked as 26. Note piece 23 is 1mm thick and 26 should also be 1mm thick.

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

Dope and sanding sealer are still widely available and very suitable for sealing balsa wood.

Colin

[John Arnold 3Participant @johnarnold3]

Thanks Colin

I have found a hobby shop which sells Dope but takes a 1+hours train trip each way to get it. Not sure if they would post such a volatile liquid.

I purchased some clear wood sealer for a job in my house. I will try that on an offcut. I Know that it soaks in very well on other timber.

John

[John Arnold 3Participant @johnarnold3]

Thanks again Colin for mentioning sanding sealer.

I was just looking through my (house) paints, stains and varnishes and found a small tin of SANDING SEALER. It was purchased for a job in my house but it is described on the tin as

Grain filling timber sealer that can be sanded to a super smooth surface – dries to a hard film.

ALTHOUGH it says that it can be top coated with varnish so I will contact the manufacturer to make sure paints can be used before I do any possible damage.

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

John. In theory those wood hardening coatings should be ok, and will be able to take a variety of top-coats or they would be no use to your average DIY-er.

​I am not that keen on balsa, it takes a lot of sealing and priming to get rid of the grain, and it can be difficult to get smooth if the filler you use is harder than the balsa (which is most fillers).

A regular contributor to the mag likes balsa and swears by tissue and dope….tissue to fill the grain and dope to harden. EZE=Kote is a more modern alternative and is very post-friendly.

​There is nothing right or wrong here, it is down to personal preference. Probably over half my boats have no special coating or treatment on them at all, simply paint..household undercoat.

Ashley

[John Arnold 3Participant @johnarnold3]

Hello again Ashley (or anyone else).

I am becoming quite frustrated with the 'fiddly bits' on this model.

At present I have to attach/glue a 1mmx3mm strip along the top of the edge of the hull on its edge (the 1mm wide edge of the strip).

I am finding it quite frustrating holding the strip in place while the glue dries even though using steam I have put enough bend in the strip so that it is not under tension. It's just making sure it stays where it should be until the glue has dried.

Attaching the planks to the ribs was fairly easy using pins and 'fold back' paper clips as I was working with strips on the 3mm wide edge.

Any ideas how to hold such sized strips in place especially on the edge of the top of the hull?

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi John

I use super glue with the applicator tube which I buy from our Poundland shop, with this the trick is not to attach your fingers to the work !! If your require extra strength you can put a PVA glue fillet with a cocktail stick or similar once you have the rail in position. This is the capping to the bulwarks of my recent Cullamix tug build fixed in this way, bigger but the same principle. Hope this helps.

Regards Ray

[John Arnold 3Participant @johnarnold3]

Thanks Ray

I never though of using super glue and yes if I do I will keep my fingers away as much as possible and run them under water before touching anything else just in case.

I assume your tug boat will have an engine and radio controlled? Looks big enough for someone to sit inside perhaps.

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi John

Yes she is 39" long and will be electric powered with RC speed control and steering, If you have a look in my album of photos you will see the various stages from scratch over 18 months so far launching at Easter

Regards Ray

[John Arnold 3Participant @johnarnold3]

I am impressed with ypur tub boats and other craft in your album.

I have also seen other's photo albums here and impressed.

How long did it take to build? I guess it was NOT a kit and you hand crafted everything.

What paint did you you use on the hull? It certainly would have used a lot.

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