RAF rescue launch ASR HSL

[Philip Hughes 1Participant @philiphughes1]

So here are a few pics from my build – so you can see progress:

These are plans being used:

and here are the cutouts joined to make a frame:

Started using thin ply for the sides:

glued down with cascamite – and needs final trim to size and 'sanding in'

thats all for now

[Philip Hughes 1Participant @philiphughes1]

new build

[Philip Hughes 1Participant @philiphughes1]

You will notice in some of the above pics – we doubled the bulk heads to add more riigidity and larger surface ara to glue the sides to.

Something to note – the plans appear to be 'out' in some parts by as much a 5mm on some of the bulk heads – either that or the top deck needs to be wider!

[Charles OatesParticipant @charlesoates31738]

Hi Philip, it's not unknown for a plan to have inaccuracies, even from some famous designers so the old adage, measure twice, cut once is very helpful. Another possibility, is when a builder cuts to the wrong line on the plan, some can be confusing about which line is which.

If you want to broaden the bulkhead edges, you could just glue a strip of 4 mm wood along each edge, simpler, cheaper and easy to do than adding bulk and weight.

I hope you enjoy your build, keep us posted.

Charles

e it measure twice, cut once

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Philip. I would go along with Charles re bulkhead thickness. These days I use 4mm ply, and you can use a hole cutter to remove material, but it is not that heavy.

I always cut skins oversize And trim to fit, as this is not only easier but also can result in a better fit. If an expanding glue like Gorilla glue is used, the gaps are even “self-filled” eliminating extra filling!

Cascamite,! Blast from the past.

Ashley

[Richard SimpsonParticipant @richardsimpson88330]

I remember mixing up Cascamite when I did woodwork at school. That and another glue made up from boiled down animal parts!

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

The woodworking chap in the”repair shop” often uses some sort of glutinous hot/warm glue when doing furniture.

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

Posted by ashley needham on 18/05/2021 13:32:19:

The woodworking chap in the”repair shop” often uses some sort of glutinous hot/warm glue when doing furniture.

that is probably animal/fish glue boiled down from fish and animal bones [usually horse, donkey or pig bones and hide]……but you can buy it still as a ready "stewed" resin pellet these days , just needs boiling up again .

incredible strength, even stronger than cascamite powder glue…………

but stinks like the bowels of hell, lol.

Amber Color 60g Animal Hide Glue or Adhesive Guitar Instruments Accessories | eBay

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

The woodwork glue pot at school in the late forties used to have a fascinating addictive disgusting smell!

So much so, we bought one ourselves

It consisted of an outer pot to hold the boiling the water

With an inner pot to hold the glue, which was either cattle bones or some smelly fish skins!

Woodwork was my favourite class at school

Good old Mr Graham from Old Hall Drive

Teachers Pet

[Philip Hughes 1Participant @philiphughes1]

Here is an update on the latest build developments – as per all the hard work and effort by my wonderful father-in-law and a stand to put it on whilst being worked on

Sides on hull and mostly sanded down – done in ply:

stern view:

image of w-i-p upper superstructure that we decided to not use: shows rear hatch cut out – so we can get to servos/rudder etc:

looks .like we will go with this super structure: – also shows Oerlikon canon from 3d printed:

So we still need to block the bow and 'carve' it out – not sure about this bit!

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Phillip,

It looks like the sides could continue in ply with the grain vertical to allow it to take the curve to the stem/bow, to use laminations of say 1/2" balsa sheet will be an expensive business with the recent shortage prices have almost doubled

Looking at the position of the waterline on the drawing, it looks like it's an old design for heavy SLA batteries ?? do you have the magazine article describing the build which could help you??

Regards Ray

[Philip Hughes 1Participant @philiphughes1]

hi Ray – it came with instructions that look like its from a magazine article – i'll post a pic here when I'm round next time – thanks for the tips

[Philip Hughes 1Participant @philiphughes1]

looks like my F-I-L beat me to it – he had already 'blocked' in the bow with block balsa and scrap

Guess this bit will take a little time – time to learn some carving! lol

[Philip Hughes 1Participant @philiphughes1]

So my Father-in-law spent a happy bank holiday – sanding and carving etc to get a very good looking bow IMHO:

Closer up view:

So the rudder and prop shaft epoxied in place:

And someone asked about the instructions – brief photo here not sure about the original source but came with the plans:

[Philip Hughes 1Participant @philiphughes1]

So next things to do – we have made a thin ply top again to cover some of the dings and such the blasa jas picked up on the deck.

Also upper deck superstructure to sort out.

have the 2.4ghz transmitter and servos etc

BUT need to 'water proof first' – any advise on this guys? for the hull and inside hull?

Do you still use dope? anything recommended here?

[Tim CooperParticipant @timcooper90034]

There is an article by Dave Milbourn o the forum under 'Hints and Tips' on finishing wooden boat hulls.

Personally I have used glass cloth and a resin coating as recommended by Dave.

Tim

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

One of Dave's options is to use Eze-Kote epoxy and lightweight cloth which a number of us use as it is water based, dries quickly allowing multiple coats and is easy to sand and provides strength and a good basis for painting the outside of the hull.

Not sure about using Eze-Kote on the inside (without cloth) as I've heard of instances where it can soften if in contact with water for an extended time – which shouldn't be the case. May be better to paint or use an epoxy resin.

Chris

Edited By Chris Fellows on 09/06/2021 13:11:51

[Tim CooperParticipant @timcooper90034]

I have used thinned down coat of epoxy on the inside which worked oK. In theory the inside of the boat shouldn't get that wet. Ashley may have a problem with some of his more experimental boats.

I do leave the hull open overnight just to air, even on my plastic and glass fibre hulls.

Tim

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

As Tim surmises, moveable ballast intake can be an issue.

i used to use cellulose dope/sanding sealer, but now use EzeKote. Anything will do really. A varnish of some sort is ok.

AND as Tim says, it’s always a good idea to let the boats dry out for a day before putting the covers on.

P38 filler is a good glue, and is handy for propshafts as it will gap-fill nicely and is easy to sand down.

Ashley

[Philip Hughes 1Participant @philiphughes1]

So took the eze kote route – thanks for the tips guys – so it starts with the hull bottom:

So also starting constructing upper superstructure:

[Philip Hughes 1Participant @philiphughes1]

So its been a while with holibobs and such – so back to the build:

Fitted out inside with battery box area and engine mount suitable angled – plus area for servo – also added som Eze cote on the inside,

Started off masking off bits prior to spray painting – I did also rub it all down before hand:

Lower half of hull sprayed red – hmm despite even another rub down and spray – still showing imperfections but will probably live with them – anyone with advise on this?

So Upper deck is started:

Mocked up gun turrets from some small display type things off ebay with the bottom sections turned upside down to form the 'cupola' they seem to be in. With some vinyl to form the frames and brass guns which will be sprayed black – unless i decide to sshell out on some 3d printed brownings or something? – looks the part i thought – nice work by the father-in-law.

I think i'm happy so far – just the paint work doesnt seem very satisfying? Any tips?

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Philip,

Most of your problem with the finish of the hull is you used surface tissue which is horid stuff compared to lightweight glass cloth which most of us use which is much thinner, but it looks ok, top tip is don't use gloss paint, matt or Satin will look a whole lot better and more realistic

Regards Ray

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Fill, rub down fill, rub down, fill…..etc. There’s only one way to get good paint! Don’t forget undercoat is liquid filler and should be almost completely sanded off before considering a topcoat. Balsa is hard to get smooth (see any number of builds) and I would be tempted to do the deck in glass/EzeKote.

Current project a nightmare to get smooth (foam, mostly,) until I covered it in fibreglass and epoxy resin, whereupon I could fill and sand aggressively to get a mirror surface due to the hardness of the epoxy.

Acrylic pens are good…a sort of pen-paintbrush….might be able to do the framing on your domes?

The bottom…I wouldn’t worry about the finish too much, who looks at the bottom unless you are exhibiting?? I would leave It as is.

Ashley

[Philip Hughes 1Participant @philiphughes1]

Thanks for the advice (Ray and Ashley) – so ordered different paint – as its just started the lower hull I'll be sanding it and re-doing it I think – as not happy with it.

Just had a big load of decals and stuff delivered from maritime-models – got some more cleats but still look small for this 1/24th scale any ideas on cleats guys?

[Philip Hughes 1Participant @philiphughes1]

So uploaded some more details:

Bow masked off ready for repainting –

Sides i think look much better in the Matt as advised by you guys – not perfect but much better i think:

Some upper structure details:

Grab rails made in brass wire and in place: – cowl vents purchased – 3d printed i guess

:Mast constructed from wood:

and put in place:

Top superstructure – nearly there: Gun turret 'holders' made from the upside down domes off small display 'thimbles' stands – with the turrets from the domed uppers.

Starting to come together – i'm proud for a first effort looking nice:

accessories shown from ebay and 3d printed and needs painting etc. Not fitted yet just put on for pic

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