HMS PORCHESTER CASTLE

[John W EParticipant @johnwe]

Hi

This is the beginning of a build which has been on the back burners of 'to do' for a long time. Its about time I did it – the Model is 1:48 scale and the plans I am using are from Norman Ough with the aid of several online articles plus a book Castle Class Corvettes composed by Norman Goodwin and edited by Steve Bush – ISBN No, 9781904459279.

The frames have been cut from 5 mm Birch plywood.

The keel is also made from 5 mm plywood – Birch again.

She has roughly 6 stringers per side – this aides for the diagonal planking. For those who haven't double diagonally planked – a round-bilged hull – the main thing to remember is the more stringers you have, the easier it is to hold the planks and to create the correct radius shape on the build. The other thing is – don't make the planks too wide – as if you make them too wide, as you bend the planks around they tend to try and lift away from the hull.

If you look at the pic, I have indicated where the plank is trying to twist away from the hull.

So, this the build so far…..

 

Edited By John W E on 28/06/2020 11:23:29

[John W EParticipant @johnwe]

SCRATCH BUILD – PLANK ON FRAME

[John W EParticipant @johnwe]

[John W EParticipant @johnwe]

I forgot to mention in my previous posting – the planking material is Obechi – 9 mm x 1 mm . The overall length of the model will be 63 inches (approx.) Roughly 9 inches beam.

The glue I am using is Aliphatic wood glue. I prefer this to trying to use superglue as with the Aliphatic glue it gives a bit of 'wiggle' time to put the plank in the correct position. You don't end up with your fingers glues to the planks.

The other thing is I plank – 10 planks either side at a time – and the way I do it – I plank 5 planks forward and 5 planks back over from the pre-laid planks. This I believe reduced the stress build up because as the glue dries and the planks dry out – they tend of shrink and tend to pull the framework. (That's my excuse anyway)

John

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hello John,

Thanks for starting this blog, that's a lot of planks 😀 and will make a hull to be proud of. I've never used aliphatic glue because it sounded expensive ?? I use Gorilla white glue for most thing cheap from Wilko's 👍

Regards Ray

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Great pictures John.

ALSO….Great pictures of why I don`t do plank on frame!

Keep up the good work. I would never have the patience.

Ashley

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

I am with Ashley on that one, i currently have two yachts in build, chine and plank and i have stalled with both.

I have tried all sorts of glue starting with balsa cement when i was about 10. On my plank on frame waiting for the aliphatic to dry was a pain, Ray suggested Balsa cement to speed things up (full circle).

I do chop and change a lot as to what i get bored with, but i will try to keep an eye on this one as those curves look a challenge. Vic Smeed made a Maga Dan a long time ago and that was all planked (i think?) i sais i would have a go at one one day but have never got there.

Bri

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

Deluxe Superphatic is an alternative to aliphatic and superglues. Not cheap but it is quick and works very well.

Colin

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

where do you buy yours from Colin.

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

Neil,

Recently from Leeds Model Shop

**LINK**

but I think others sell it for much the same.

As well as excellent wood to wood bonds it does also stick efectively between porous and non porou surfaces.such as wood to plastic and the water cleanup makes it nice to use with no residue.

I am allergic to nornal cyano so it is a good alternative for me.

Colin

 

Edited By Colin Bishop on 28/06/2020 20:52:23

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Brian,

When I'm planking I pin everything in place so glue drying not an issue, then fill the pin holes with filled 😀

Regards Ray

[John W EParticipant @johnwe]

Hi there

The Aliphatic glue that I am using comes from a Company called M.D. Products and I have been trying to find a link for it – but – the only place I can find this product at the moment is on Ebay – I have the Deluxe version of this, which I will be using very shortly. The original bottle has about ran out after me using it for about 5 years – so not bad.

In the past I have used EvoStik brand of PVA when planking models but it isn't truly 100% waterproof but as long as it was covered well (I used to coat over the top with fibre glass resin to seal them). I have never had a hull fall apart yet (touch wood) when using EvoStik.

Sometimes when I am building superstructures etc I will use the cheaper Wilko PVA glue; I tend to only use superglue for gluing either metal or when I assimulate plating on a hull using plasticard. When I plank any hull longitudinal – I either use dressmakers pins/ brass pins to hold the planks in place. Brass pins are normally permanent but obviously dressmaker pins you take out when the glue is dry.

Depending on the planking a quick wipe with a wet cloth will close up the holes in the timber after dressmakers pins have been removed.

I did invest in a load of these fancy 'T building pins' for holding planks in place, but, I found anything harder than balsa wood they tended to bend so they stay in the drawer in readiness for building another balsa wood model.

I will carry on planking now my friends. John

Edited By John W E on 29/06/2020 09:24:47

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

thanks Colin…..….I am also…….have to buy odourless cyano at a much inflated price and it still plays havoc with my sinuses .

I shall try some of that.

thanks.

[John W EParticipant @johnwe]

Hi all still planking the plank – just taking me time – I have 52 on one side and 40 on the other – God help us

John

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

Hi John its all looking fine to me. Are you steaming the planks or do they bend easy with being 1mm?

 

Brian

Edited By Brian Dickinson 1 on 05/07/2020 18:38:09

[John W EParticipant @johnwe]

Hello Brian

The planks I am using are Obechi – 9 x 1 mm and I bought them from SLEC hobbies and up to now they have all been pretty straight grained and fairly easy to bend around the hull. Normally, if I have any stubborn planks which don't bend easily – I soak in hot water for 10 – 15 minutes. This makes the planks pretty pliable and non-argumentative about being bent into shape.

The really really stubborn ones, I will stick in boiling water – normally an old kettle. Be careful trying this, as steam burns don't half hurt and make the skin go funny,.

John

[John W EParticipant @johnwe]

hi ya Ray

just been looking back through some old photographs on Mayhem to look for my original bottle of Aliphatic glue and I could only find one which shows me bottle on the shelf (that is dated 2011) but I have had it a bit longer than that and I built roughly about 8 or 9 model boats since then – so its a pretty good bit of value for money – when you think about it – considering the length of time it has lasted. I cannot think of how much I paid for it at the time and I hope this new bottle I have just opened today lasts me as long. Sadly I have just had the last few drops from the original one, have a look on me shelf at the back of the model and you will see the bottle there.

John

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi John,

I'm a Gorilla white glue fan for most general boat work, the bigger size are about £ 6.95 and will last over a year normally , but for my balsa boat I use good old balsa cement fast drying and it smells great 😀I

Your planking looks good and will make a sturdy hull with the second layer.

Regards Ray

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hi Ray

I used to have big troubles sanding a balsa model where Balsa Cement was used

It was too hard for me, matey

John, I like your planking process……..Very nicely done

Bob

[John W EParticipant @johnwe]

Hi Ray and Bob

comments much appreciated – up to now the build plan is for the hull to be single planked and then coated with Zpoxy resin – with aircraft grade woven roven – and then that being sanded smooth – to use plasticard to assimilate the hull plating. That is the plan in theory – time will tell. hahah

As a gentleman once said to me – the sides of the road are littered with great plans, which have never been followed through.

we will see

John

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

Cartridge paper or thin card can also be used to simulate plating and has the advantage that it can be stuck on with something like Deluxe Eze Kote which effectively bonds it into the underlying hull as it soaks into both surfaces.

Colin

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