Altair Sailing Yacht

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Altair Sailing Yacht

Home Forums Scratch build Altair Sailing Yacht

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  • #101141
    Brian White 3
    Participant
      @brianwhite3

      Hi, I have just received a set of plans from Sarik Hobbies, for the sailing yacht Altair. The model is designed by Sandy Cousins. They are a good set of plans and I was looking for a new long term build project, so I immediately set-to, to cut out templates.

      On reading the notes, specifically for information on materials needed to complete the model, I see that Colin has used 1mm 'pasteboard' for the frames and 'waterlines' (the decks strengthening the frames). I am not familiar with using pasteboard, which I understand is layers of paper glued together, and can't find any suppliers of this build material.

      Has anyone attempted this build and used pasteboard or substituted it for another material, that could advise me on which way to go. I had thought of 'greyboard' or light ply in similar 1mm thicknesses, although greyboard doesn't seem to me to be very substantial and lite ply difficult to source in 1mm thickness..

      If there's any interest, I will keep this thread open to reflect my progress, and maybe seek out further advice as and when needed.

      Regards, Brian

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      #7225
      Brian White 3
      Participant
        @brianwhite3
        #101142
        Chris Fellows
        Participant
          @chrisfellows72943

          Hi Brian

          For a model 1200mm in length 1mm frames seem very thin to me, what are their spacing and is it plank on frame?

          Liteply, as you have probably found out, is available in 2mm and that won't weigh very much.

          I see it was featured in MM in September 1996.

          Chris

          Edited By Chris Fellows on 08/07/2022 10:40:31

          #101143
          Brian White 3
          Participant
            @brianwhite3

            Thanks Chris,

            The frames are spaced approx 45mm apart. The difference in the plans construction is that there are four Waterlines (Decks) inserted between the keel and deck. this gives it a 'honeycomb appearance and increases the overall stability. The frames are split and inserted into the waterlines and then glued to the building board. You may get a better impression if you look at the photo

            Brian

            Altair frame construction.jpg

            #101144
            Colin Bishop
            Moderator
              @colinbishop34627

              Hi Brian,

              Sandy was a well respected model boat designer so his constructional method should be OK. I would agree with Chris that your best option would be to substitute 2mm lite ply for he pasteboard and just open the slots accordingly.

              **LINK**

              With this sort of construction, thin Superphatic glue would be a good choice as it is a sort of superglue for wood and will run into the joints and dry quickly. It is available from many suppliers.

              **LINK**

              Colin

              #101146
              Brian White 3
              Participant
                @brianwhite3

                Thanks Colin,

                I'll order the lite ply as you suggested. I've not used the Superphatic glue but it seems that this will be ideal.

                Just a thought, given the method of construction, would it be feasible to use this glue after assembly, in other words, will the glue enter the lite ply if a bead is run along the seams. I ask this as there appears to be a lot of glued edges per half frame.

                Does the Superphatic glue set very rapidly, like superglue? if so, it would be even more necessary to glue post assembly of individual parts.

                Brian

                #101147
                Colin Bishop
                Moderator
                  @colinbishop34627

                  Yes, the Superphatic is ideal for gluing after assembly as you describe. I used it in this way with the SLEC Fairey powerboat kits which use slotted liteply construction. It is about the consistency of milk and wicks into the joint. Not quite as fast as superglue but usually only takes minues to grab.

                  After it has set you can run another thin bead along the joints to reinforce the construction. Very easy to use.

                  Colin

                  #101154
                  Brian White 3
                  Participant
                    @brianwhite3

                    Thanks again Colin. Looks like I have a plan!

                    I'll get the materials ordered and finish off making the templates.

                    I'll let you know how I get on with a picture or two.

                    Brian

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