Motor & ESC options for small tug

Motor & ESC options for small tug

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  • #128352
    mejt2026
    Participant
      @mejt2026

      Hi,

      I’m considering building a Mobile Marine Models Damen Stan 1605 tug, OAL 20″, beam 6″.

      I have the following to hand:

      2 x 555 motors
      2 x 40mm 4-blade Kortz-nozzle-type props

      and

      2 x 385 motors
      2 x 35mm 3-blade brass props

      Any ideas as to which would be the most suitable combo?

      The 40mm Kortz props would be true to scale, but I’m concerned that the 555 / 40mm props might overpower the model.

      Kind regards,

      John

      #128359
      Colin Bishop
      Moderator
        @colinbishop34627

        Hi John,

        It’s a difficult one! The recommendations on the Mobile Marine Models website seem to be geared towards making a towing model. If you are only expecting to do free running then it looks overpowered to me. A 40mm prop is very big for this size of model.

        The 555 motors would be too heavy I think, for such a small model.

        It also depends on how ‘accurate’ you want the underwater appearance to be – only the fish will see it when afloat!

        Personally I think your 385/35mm combination should give pretty good performance.

        I am currently building a motor yacht based on Vic Smeed’s Silver Mist (see separate topic). It is only 21 inches long and  is fitted with two MFA 360 3-6 volt motors driving 25mm 3 blade props using 2:1 reduction pulley drive. Initial domestic tests have shown it trying to climb out of the bath on a 7.2volt battery! Photo below.

        IMG_7111 - 3K JPEG

        If you want to go down the gold plated option route the Prop Shop will sell you  prop and nozzle combinations. However their combos are measured in inches. You can see the details here:

        https://www.prop-shop.co.uk/products.php?cat=kort-nozzle-propellers

        There are independent suppliers of fixed Kort nozzles but from what I can see they all start at 40mm.

        Hope this helps,

        Colin

         

        #128377
        mejt2026
        Participant
          @mejt2026

          Thanks for your reply, Colin. I’ve taken your comments on board and will go with the 385/35mm 3-blade combination

          #128381
          Richard Simpson
          Moderator
            @richardsimpson88330

            Interestingly only last weekend I was at an event where a small pusher type tug was on the water frequently.  It spent most of the day flying around at a ridiculously over scale speed looking extremely unrealistic and very toylike, which was a great shame as it was actually quite a nicely put together model.

            You are quite right to consider not overpowering a model as it can completely destroy the credibility on the water.  I have always strived to achieve as close to a scale speed as possible, with just a little in reserve for those crash stops.  I think Colin is spot on with his suggestion as the 40mm may look a little bit out of proportion and two 555 motors will weigh quite a bit.  It may well be worth considering putting an ammeter in line with the motors and do some tests in the bath before you put the deck on to give you an idea of the current being drawn and therefore what duration you might expect with the battery you choose.

            Have you done any ballast tests to see what weight you have available for propulsion/battery/electronics etc?

            #129017
            ashley needham
            Participant
              @ashleyneedham69188

              385’s every time for that model size in a non- fast hull. I have at least half a dozen boats with 385 power, and three motors in the 4 foot Titanic.

              Most models have 35mm props but my Victorian battleship  Devastation has two, and 40mm props, which don’t seem to bother the motors…even on 12v.

              Ashley

              #129058
              Charles Oates
              Participant
                @charlesoates31738

                I use 2x 385 motors in an sms Emden, 1.1 metres long. Its overpowered a little just using 7.2 volts, the motors can take up to 15 volts.. It is worth considering using the same as Colin, i can heartily recommend using the simple pulley drive, it’s efficient and cheap , and the 360s are good motors.

                 

                #129061
                Colin Bishop
                Moderator
                  @colinbishop34627

                  I think many people don’t realise just how simple a pulley drive is to set up and its flexibility. Most modellers assume that the only way to do things is stick a motor on the end of the propshaft. Yes, that usually works, but it is frequently not the best option. A pulley drive gives very real efficiency gains in bridging the gap between the high motor RPM and the lower prop rotational speed.

                  You can install the motor in front of or alongside the the propshaft end and place it to either side or above and below which can make things a lot easier if internal space is restricted. Gearing ratios can be easily changed by varying motor and shaft pulley sizes although on scale models 2:1 or 2.5:1 reduction  (in pulley diameter) usually gives effective efficiency savings for brushed motors.

                  There is no need to spend time aligning conventional couplings and pulley drives are very forgiving. You just need to be able to adjust the tension so the the belt gives good grip and does not slip. This ‘sweet spot’ can be easily found by using a multimeter to measure the point at which current draw Amps) is the least at a given voltage. There is no need for toothed belts on small to medium scale models, a 1.5mm or 2mm  diameter O ring of the appropriate  diameter will do the job, just don’t try to stretch them too much.

                  When you get the tension right the shaft will not slip in normal use but it will if the prop hits something or becomes snarled up in weed.

                  Overall, what’s not to like, but 90% of scale modellers completely overlook it. I have been using pulley drive since the 1970s and it has always served me well. It is fitted to my current Silver Shadow model and works fine.

                  Colin

                  IMG_6897

                  #129077
                  Len Morris 2
                  Participant
                    @lenmorris2

                    Well said Colin.  Pulleys, gears and toothed belts all work fine.   I prefer the latter as they seem easier to adjust for less side load on the motor and prop shaft.

                    Len.

                     

                     

                     

                     

                     

                     

                     

                     

                     

                     

                     

                     

                     

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                    #129101
                    Richard Simpson
                    Moderator
                      @richardsimpson88330

                      Nice set up Colin and so much easier to get to the motors.

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