Chez-When – 34″ Sailing Cruiser

[Nigel NorthwoodParticipant @nigelnorthwood17509]

seems there's more of these around than you think

[Juan BravoParticipant @juanbravo13406]

Beautiful boat, would love to build one for myself

Do you know Where I can find the plans?

regards!

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hello Juan,

The plans are available from Sarik Hobbies SKU RM86 and currently costs £23.00

The original design was published in the Radio Modeller magazine in 1971 as the opening picture in this thread

Regards Ray

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hello Mick Eastie,

Thought this build may help you with the 150% Eventide as far as keel requirements are required Silhouette is about the same size

Regards Ray

[cyclerParticipant @cycler]

New to the Forum and currently joining a Club to race a DF65.

Many years ago I built a small RC sailboat which I thought was a Chez When but I don’t remember if it actually was.?  If anything I think it was more simpler and possibly like a  Vic Smead Starlet.

Anyway I have purchased the Chez When plan and will build it (slowly) over the next few months .
What I could do with is a copy of the magazine article and I was wondering if anybody on here has a copy that I could purchase?  I have seen the photo of the first page but wondered if there is a second page etc. ?

One thing that would help, as seen in the 2nd photo of Ray Woods, is how to determine the height of the removable  extensions for setting up the vertical bulkheads ?

I have many years aeromodelling so have an idea about general construction and don’t expect to many hiccups but you never know.

Thanks and Cheers.

John.

 

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hello John,

Welcome to the forum 🙂 I do have the magazine somewhere and maybe a set of card bulkhead templates with the extension, I will have a look and come back to you. I’m also an aeromodeller 🙂

Regards  Ray

[Ray Wood 3]

On Ray Wood 3 Said:

Hello John,

Welcome to the forum 🙂 I do have the magazine somewhere and maybe a set of card bulkhead templates with the extension, I will have a look and come back to you. I’m also an aeromodeller 🙂

Regards  Ray

Hi Ray, Thankyou for the reply. If you find the article etc then let me know and we can sort something out.

Much appreciated.

Regards

John

 

P.S. nice Gypsy Moth. (they don’t make them like they used to.)

 

[cyclerParticipant @cycler]

Read through all the previous posts a few times and studied the various photographs. (very helpful and thanks).

Please Ray’ – In the photo below – Is there a special reason for the extension from bow to B1 ?  Not shown on the plan.

 

I’ve worked out the heights of the removable bulkhead extensions using a straight datum line drawn on the plan.

Also photocopied the bulkheads and will lightly stick them to the ply ready for cutting out.

In the posts it was mentioned that the keel weight, as shown on the plan, could still do with extending somewhat. Easy enough to do but by any chance could someone verify this ?   Also mentions the rudder could do with being more effective and enlarging?                   ( I intend leaving off the the bilge keels.)

Cheers and thanks.   John.

[cycler]

On cycler Said:

 

Please Ray’ – In the photo below – Is there a special reason for the extension from bow to B1 ?  Not shown on the plan.

Just realised that that will be the level of the foredeck, when the extensions are removed, and will give support to a possible “soft” area.

 

Cheers and thanks.   John.

 

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hello John,

You seem to have worked it out ok 🙂 the central cambered deck support is all part of the keel also gives you a good hard point under the deck for attaching the rig/forestay etc, keep us posted with your progress, you will notice all my builds are done this way on a building board to keep them straight and true 🙂

This is my double chine Lysander build which is on this forum in the scratch build .

Regards  Ray

[cyclerParticipant @cycler]

Thankyou Ray. Your photo’s are really helpful.

I notice you have altered B2 from the plan, to incorporate the roof beam for support under the mast, and I will modify and copy that.

I will also probably copy your steering servo position as well as use a servo, with an extended arm, for sail control.  I have some heavy duty metal geared servos that seem ideal for this. (mind, that’s way in the future but needs to be considered for incorporating any mod’s during the build.) 

Another decision will be whether to have a fixed or removable keel. I suppose if it’s removable then it can be modified/altered if needed.

Still studying the plan to see what I have to obtain. I have a stash of the required thicker ply’s and will have to source and purchase the 1/16″ ply.

I’ve already got an Action Man and lead for the keel. [working back to front I know. LoL.]

Thanks and Regards.  John.

 

 

[Tim RoweParticipant @timrowe83142]

Hello Cycler

I have built two of Ray’s designs (Wild Duck and Eventide)  I am also building two RG65s from plans and they all have removeable keels.  I was toying with the ide of having fixed keels in the RG65s but I am glad I decided to make them removeable.  For one thing it doesn’t really save that much work.

The main benefit is that with the keel off I can work on them at a bench while sitting down.  With the keels on, they would be much too high.

For display purposes, Wild Duck, Eventide and Chez When look better with their sailing keels removed.

Tim R

[cyclerParticipant @cycler]

Hi’ Tim.

Thanks for advice and I’m certainly erring on the side of a having a removable keel. Probably similar to Ray’s version.

Although I’m not intending fitting the bilge keels I will install the internal stringers for them just in case. (For scale reasons.)

One question – I have found, on the Web, some Silhouettes have smaller skegs and I wondered if a smaller one would improve the steering. As it’s reported that the steering is a bit iffy, on the model, I do intend enlarging the rudder a bit.

Upcoming questions involves mast, booms and sails.

Cheers. John.

[cyclerParticipant @cycler]

Just in the process of cutting out the bulkheads. (said I would be slow.)

What do people suggest for a waterproof glue please ?

Somewhere on the Forum I saw something mentioned about Gorilla Glue and wondered if that is O.K. ?

Cheers

John.

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hello John,

I use Gorilla woodworking glue which is fine, but recently I’ve been using Ever Build 502 Wood adhesive 10 minute grab time which is handy, or Wickes do a water resistant wood glue, I always paint or varnish inside my boats and it’s fine 🙂

Good luck and keep at it

Regards  Ray

[cyclerParticipant @cycler]

Thanks Ray.

I will be varnishing the insides as well.

I’ve checked out your suggestion for the Ever Build, and looks good, but wondered if it would “go off” in the bottle if not used for a long time .? (Also could be ideal for the planes.)

Cheers and much appreciated.

John

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi John,

The bottles of ever build I have are at least 3-4 years old no problem it’s PVA I use it on my aeroplanes as well 🙂

Regards  Ray

[John W EParticipant @johnwe]

hi there John

I am in the camp of using cheap and cheerful PVA glue on model boats, as long as it is well sealed with either paint or varnish.  When you think about it, our models really don’t spend a lifetime in the water constantly – maybe just a couple of hours per week or so.  Having said that, on some models I do use Aliphatic Resin (yellow tinged glue) and according to the label on the bottle it is shock and weather resistant.

John

[cyclerParticipant @cycler]

Thanks Guy’s.

Regarding glues I have both Aliphatic and cheap PVA versions but now they’re  running very low.

I’ll get a bottle of the Ever Build as like the sound of a fairly quick ‘grab’ etc.

Cheers

John

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

Aliphatic rubs down better than PVA

Colin

[Richard SimpsonModerator @richardsimpson88330]

I think it is also worth remembering that most glues will deteriorate if left unused for long lengths of time.  Usually as a result of very fine seepage of solvents from caps and lids and loss due to frequent opening.  The inevitable results being the glues start to get a little thicker.  Some can be recovered by adding a little solvent but it is usually best to simply renew the glue.  The ones that tend to last longer are the two part glues that do not contain a solvent, but these of course also tend to be a lot more expensive.

I still use more PVA that just about any other glue for a multitude of purposes and frequently water it down for many purposes.  This used to be good old ‘Resin W’ in its waterproof form but nowadays tends to be Speed Bond, which dries clear, wipes off with a damp cloth when still wet and is also a fairly fast grab and cure.

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