Richard give it a coat of bitumen paint, cant beat the old ways 🙂

Regards Ray

hi there Richard

My experience with Ezekote resin is that I left some in a pot after using it for about 3-4 days and when I added water the hardened stuff in the pot, as I was using the same pot to wash brushes in – I noted that the Ezekote had turned to a white jelly.

Polyester resin is not waterproof.   After a length of time it will absorb water and become very porous.   Even though real boats are built with it – they do have a barrier of gelcoat between the resin and the water.   Your best bet would be to use Z-Poxy and that is 100% waterproof.   Dilute the first coat with meths and then finish off with just a pure coating of Z-Poxy.

John

The 5/15/30 versions are adhesives. The finishing resin is for laminating and coating. I’ve just bought some for the inside of my Silver Mist. Prices are all over the place though, I got mine for £13.79 delivered. Most shops are asking £20.

The Finishing resin flows more easily and gives an even finish.

As Ashley says, there is a good chance that polyester resin could affect the 3D print material.

Colin

Richard,

On Ebay but when I just looked it is now out of stock!

You could try one of these. Model Shop Leeds is a good supplier I have used them several times.

https://www.modelshopleeds.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=18744&srsltid=AfmBOooXJbTSyXz5RvqBpeoalzj0QMZjsOFa-2vWhxWh_Cz5DGXiABi6

https://www.hyperflight.co.uk/products.asp?code=PT41&name=zap-pt41-z-poxy-finishing-resin-epoxy

https://www.rcworld.co.uk/acatalog/ZAP-PT41-Z-POXY-Finishing-Resin-113g-4oz-PT41.html

https://www.jadlamracingmodels.com/products/zap-pt-41-z-poxy-finishing-resin-4oz-5525788-1?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=18863439803&gclid=CjwKCAjw2brFBhBOEiwAVJX5GGWqgOiC6nG9G2fOanrnQ5-bQjzJpUy_wqim6lkDS4s7lGVnmtb9XRoCuIcQAvD_BwE

Colin

Z Poxy should be OK Richard. I intend using it for the interior of my Silver Mist and  recently bought some as mentioned earlier. However, I still have some left over from another project which is several years old and I mixed up a test sample yesterday which has set perfectly well.

Colin

I posted recently about finding the plans for Margoletta, Ray Woods broads cruiser from 2005 & got hold of a copy of the magazine & plan. I have decided to go ahead with the model for grandson. Ive not done a model like this or of this  construction before.

Reading the article which Colin kindly put on features it says that the hull is finished with a couple of coats of dope or sanding sealer before painting.

From what I’ve read over the last couple of years on the forum it seems more common practice these days to use Eze Kote and a fibre coating on the hull. Is that right? Is there somewhere I can read up on this please?

Finally, I’ve tacked this on the end of Richards thread as I cant find the button to start a new thread, what have I missed, or have I been blocked for some reason.

Stephen

PS Ray, did the Porter & Haylett plans you wanted ever turn up in reply to your request?

Thanks very much Colin, I wasn’t sure which weight of cloth to use so thanks for the link. You say “more coats”, I presume that’s coats of Exe Kote rather than cloth. I’m looking forward to making Margoletta as I particularly enjoy working with wood & this will be something different.

With your other hat on did you have any idea where my “start new topic button has gone?

Thanks

Stephen

Stephen, yes, more coats of Eze Kote. It is quite thin and water based so it doesn’t have much ‘body’ and thickening it is not recommended. It does however dry very quickly so you can put several coats on in the time it would take one coat of epoxy finishing resin to cure.

Colin

Just another point Stephen, you will inevitably get some overlaps with the glass cloth and the occasional wrinkle but they can be easily sanded smooth. If you inadvertently sand through the cloth you can add a patch and feather the edges with sanding and it will all blend in.

It is usually best to do one side of the hull at a time. Start with a coat of Eze Kote and then drape the cloth over it and pat it down with a stiffish brush. It is fairly flexible in adapting to curves but you will need to slit folds and overlap the two sides of the split. They will blend in when you add the first top coat of resin. Then it is a case of just adding further coats with light sanding between until you fill the weave of the cloth. If necessary add further coats to cover blemishes etc. Once you have got the hull smooth you can switch to primer paint for the final finishing.

With Margoletta, much of the hull is flat sheet so getting a decent finish shouldn’t be too difficult. Silver Mist with its curves and planking needs a bit more effort!

Colin

Hi Stephen,

I’m glad your building Margoletta as she was my first published design 20 years ago !!, although freelance I tried to add the character of the older wooden Norfolk Broads Cruiser, not sure if you had the free plan and magazine, she still gets on the water a couple times a year 🙂

The Swallows and Amazons books series by Arthur Ransome is where it all started for me .

Regards Ray