Chris Craft 1949 Runabout

[harry smith 1Participant @harrysmith1]

Hi All

Another on line boat, started and run out of steam !!!

28 and half inch runabout like the Sea Hornet, but, for $100 au with all the fittings.

A mate pick the boat from the other end of the island and I pickup a stove and installed it a rental house he has, so the boat ended up free !!!

The hull is skin with a plastic skin and the Mahogany planks over the top.

These planks are about 1/16- 3/32 thick, so the hull is going to be strong.

The 2mm drive line has been removed and by one of my pics you can see why !!!

The motor and speed controller have been dump for a brushless 28mm motor and ESC with a plan of twin small 3S Lipo battery setup.

A few redesigns in the works as the motor, ESC and receiver area under the engine hatch is not a sealed area.

Harry

[harry smith 1Participant @harrysmith1]

Classic Runabout

[harry smith 1Participant @harrysmith1]

Hi All

Added a few pics before starting on the boat.

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Harry. Nice basis for what could be a very smart boat. No wonder you replaced the propshaft…and it was only 2mm!!

​What sort of Kv might you use?
​Ashley

[harry smith 1Participant @harrysmith1]

Hi Ashley

The drive line was installed wrong as per one of the pics, so it had to come out !!!

Hoping Hobbyking get the same motor back in that I have in the Sea Hornet.

A B28-57-15L 1900kv 750 Watts, but, only running it on 3S so the power will be down some wot !!!

Waiting on some bearing to make a 4mm drive line setup, but, have a 32mm CNC 2 blade prop.

The steering wheel in the kit is 62mm across !!!!!

I strip out all the old gear and increase the drive line hole for 8mm tubing.

Because of dropping down to a 28mm motor I can lower the prop angle and offset the drive line.

So basically clamp the drive shaft to the right hand side of the rudder fix my motor alignment tool to the motor mount and to the drive shaft.

Glue the mount into the boat and you have prefect alignment.

Harry

[harry smith 1Participant @harrysmith1]

Hi All

A few pics of the boat stripped out and a rough setup of the new gear.

Next remove the old motor mounts, but some of the wood will stay because of the epoxy glue as I do not wish to damage the hull skin.

Harry

[harry smith 1Participant @harrysmith1]

Hi All

Removed the old motor mounts and made a new alloy one.

Same type I used in the Sea Hornet.

Resized the drive line hole and re-angle it because of dropping to a 28mm brushless.

The motor I was planning for the boat is not available from Hobbyking so I am going with a Turnigy X2845 1980kv.

80kv and 42 Watts more, about 900 rpm more on 3S !!!

Harry

Edited By harry smith 1 on 13/05/2018 10:11:47

[harry smith 1Participant @harrysmith1]

Hi All

Installed a new drive line support on the bottom of the hull and glue in the home made motor mount with epoxy glue.

I offset the prop shaft with the left side in line with the right side of the rudder because of new motors power and rpm.

I have made up 90% on the boats templates using Manilla folder only the curve sections for under the deck to go.

The other one like this has a more open rear floor area with seating on the sides and a cover over the motor.

Would may a good pair on the water.

Harry

[Steven Sadler 4Participant @stevensadler4]

Hi sorry to ask a silly question how did you insert jpegs if you don't mind answering, nice freebee by the way thank you

[harry smith 1Participant @harrysmith1]

Hi Steven

You have to make an Album(light blue bar at the top of the screen).

All jpegs under 300K, so resize with Office Picture Manager or a paint program.

Bit more work on the boat as the engine hatch was a mess.

Started making a new one with a plywood base, plywood frames with wooden sides(no balsa wood).

Will add two 10mm magnets to hold down the hatch.

The frame over the motor was broken, so I am making in into a full frame with a cutout for the motor.

Ordered the motor and ESC today.

The frame in front of the rear cockpit. I seal up one of the factory cutout hole and reduce the other one by half.

It's only to get the rudder servo wire into the engine bay.

I am trying to workout how to mount the rudder servo onto the transom.

It was easy on my Sea Hornet, as I mount it before the deck was installed.

Post some pics later this week .

Harry Smith

[harry smith 1Participant @harrysmith1]

Hi All

A few little bits made up ready to install, clamps all over the place.

Work out my rudder install and made the servo mounting brackets.

More clamps.

Harry Smith

[harry smith 1Participant @harrysmith1]

Hi All

Installed my bits for the mods on frame 5 and dry fitted the engine hatch.

Servo mount made and started installing the drive line.

My new Teflon bottom bearing with 13 more spares pickup today.

Epoxy glue in and add fiberglass filler tomorrow.

Should hold near 22,000 rpm !!!

More like 20,000 rpm on load with a 792 Watt motor!!!

[harry smith 1Participant @harrysmith1]

Hi All

Filling and sanding around the prop drive today.

The butterfly keel gives you a lot more room to fill and glue to make it strong.

A bit of final filler and sanding to go.

Next job is to glue the rudder servo into position and so I can replace it later if required.

Also filling and sanding frame 5 in the cockpit area as it looks a bit average.

I know the seat will hide it ,but, I may veneer it.

You may see in the pics that the skins at the transom have not bin glue in right.

Big job to redo, so I am adding filler to fix the problem.

Harry

[harry smith 1Participant @harrysmith1]

Hi All

I had to stand the boat on it's stern to glue the servo and mount into position.

Add a lot of lead blocks to hold it all in place.

I hope I do not have to replace the servo.

The rudder is only glue to the shaft and is not balance as I would like so I will move the shaft back about 2 to 3mm.

Hopefully the motor turns up this week so I can drop that in and make the prop shaft.

Once the motor and rudder are in place, place the boat in a plastic bag and play around with battery and ESC placement as I have more room to go aft.

If the boat sits bow down per the water line I will be happy.

It's getting to that time of the year down south, into Autumn and Winter !!!

Harry

[harry smith 1Participant @harrysmith1]

Hi All

The motor and ESC arrive today (SUNDAY !!!), so added the connectors to the ESC and program it up.

Install the motor and test run it on 3 and 4 S Lipo's.

It sings nicely.

Spent over an hour looking for my solid motor connectors between motor and shaft.

Still did not find the dam things !!!!

Harry Smith

[harry smith 1Participant @harrysmith1]

Hi All

Still no solid motor connector, so using a Banggood metal uni joint .

Made the prop shaft today and dry install it.

The thin brass rudder has been enlarged by increasing the depth by 4mm.

The pivot point on the rudder has been change to a more balance point.

Installing the engine hatch sit on strips in the boat as the hatch will have the magnets and the strips will have foam door sealer on them.

Will add pics later.

If the boat had not had the hull skins on, it would be 10 times easier !!!!

Harry Smith

[Patrick Matthews 1Participant @patrickmatthews1]

Hope you're still at it? The model does build into a nice runner!

[harry smith 1Participant @harrysmith1]

HI Patrick

I have installed the motor, but have stop on the project.

Started on a French fishing boat and a unfinished Precedent Perkasa 37" Patrol boat.

Hope to get back to the boat soon as I think it will be a little rocket with a classic look.

Canabus

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