Hi Alasdair,

I’m sure both hulls will be strong enough.  The final strength really comes from the bulkheads and stringers you fit inside.

Puffers look good with plate and rivet detail.  It can easily be removed on a fibre glass hull with excessive sanding.  It can also be easily repaired, or added to a smooth hull.

It might depend on the hull finish you choose.  Puffers were normally a bit scruffy.

Len

Alasdair, this month’s Model Boats Magazine ( June ’24) has a build article in it of a Windermere steam barge, The SS Raven, that uses the Orion Mouldings Clyde Puffer fibreglass hull as a basis.  I’m sure you’ll find it an interesting read.

Alasdair, that is a perfect example of how kits can frequently be simplified for the sake of keeping the cost down as well as making the model that bit easier to build.  These are just the sort of things you need to identify when building a kit and then make the conscious decision whether to build the kit in its simpler form or deviate from it and make yours more realistic.  Frequently balanced against this are the two main considerations of A) Whether any other observer will notice the difference and care and B) Whether you can live with the simplified version or whether it will bug you for the rest of your life!

As an example I’ve just finished my Ben Ain kit, shown here:

Ben Ain

The aft accommodation was supplied as a fibre glass moulding.  All the examples I’ve seen of this built model have used this part and it makes into a perfectly acceptable model.  A bit of research though makes you realise that the top has no camber, the plate joints in the sides are perpendicular to the top of the moulding when they should be vertical and one or two other niggly bits.  The decision was to either use the kit supplied part and crack on with the model or spend the next couple of weeks building a completely scratch built bespoke item from wood.  Not an easy decision!  But you have to be happy with the end result so only you can make the decision.

Congratulations though for identifying the issue and realising you have identified a compromise.

thanks Mike – that would be very kind of you.  Alasdair

hello Alasdair

I’m out at Shuttleworth today

will be on the case tomorrow

cheers

Mike

Alasdair, Interesting the BluX smoke unit.  I have seen them before but didn’t follow up mainly as they are in Australia but, now you mention it, I’ve tried to find a bit more on them.  I agree it is not very clear how they work.  They are described as “water based” but you have to use a special fluid, rather than tap water.  They do use a wick and they do involve heat so I suspect it might be some kind of heating element that is heating a water based emulsion.  So it will share some of the downsides with the old oil heater types, i.e. using a higher current and generating heat, but it will be a lot safer than them as you are not using neat oil.  It does seem to produce a good quantity of smoke.  It may not be as good as the nebuliser types at following engine speed and obviously won’t be as convenient as simply putting some more water down the funnel to top it up.

I’ve done a couple of reviews recently of a UK produced smoke generator of the nebuliser type which you might want to consider as well.  I was going to send you a link to his web site but it is down at the moment for refurbishment.  This is his YouTube page though where his products are demonstrated:

Denes Designs

Prop shaft inboard ends can be lower than the water line however you must be aware then of the need to ensure the shaft is better sealed.  Bushes need to be a good fit on the shaft, sealed ball bearings are better, and thrust arrangements need to have the minimum clearance.  If I had to have an inboard end lower than the water line I would use sealed ball bearings rather than bushes, but that’s just me being over cautious. When I built the Ben Ain this was my first attempt:

But I didn’t like it after tests in the bath so I ripped it all out again and fitted a sealed ball bearing shaft arrangement.

Have a chat with Prop Shop for shaft and propeller suggestions or JoTiKa, who supply Caldercraft kits.

Alasdair,

Have a look at the prop shafts used on model submarines (it’s a bit hard to keep the inboard end above the water line!).  I think the most common are the Dutch Raboesch water proof type.  Expensive but good insurance.

Note the instructions tell you how to shorten the shafts to suit your model exactly.

Len.

Alasdair,

This subject has just been covered comprehensively in the current (June 2024) issue of the magazine by Glynn Guest in his Drivelines article. The article is basically a repeat of the original in the 2011 Special Issue edited by myself and you can see this in the  Features section of the Forum here:

Drivelines

Please note the the diagrams are all at the end of the feature article due to the conversion process from MyTime Media to Mortons forums.

Lindsey agreed to the updated article as the subject matter crops up very frequently in questions on this and other forums.

Colin