TYNE Class Lifeboat build

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

you are quite correct Richard……….had not seen the other colours before. cheers.

just didn't want to blow anything up lol.

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

Now, if you think laterally it's amazing what you can find that will do for a lifeboat.

i was watching my daughter take a covid rapid test today, as she has the past 3 days because her phone app told her to self isolate for 4 days……..and what did i find.

that the little recepticle that you dip your swab into is absolutely perfect if the top rounded bit is cut off and saved, it will do for the lens cover on the all round white or blue light…………….

and whats more, the plastic part of the swab, can be once the swab end is removed is perfect for the short radio areals, lomge adds can be glued on to them, and even none operational hydraulic rams ….

just brilliant……and i washed them after surgical use.

AND YES…….. for the fourth test in 3 days self isolation and the ninth since going into the same place as who ever triggered the app alarm…….she tested negative.

whooopeee.

 

Edited By neil howard-pritchard on 05/07/2021 17:22:42

[Richard SimpsonParticipant @richardsimpson88330]

We're surrounded by available materials!

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

even though my workshop is a s*** tip, and will take major removeable of c**p to fully operate, i can actually do bits to help clear the detritus whilst i wait fro filler, paint and glue to dry…..

and so with renewed vigor i desided to fit the prop shafts into the tubes, and fit the motors.

the main object though, was how to get over the millenium question of how to lubricate and waterproof the tubes and shafts from water ingress.

and this, true to the advice i give regularly, i followed my own advice. as i have done for the past 30 years.

i took the lid off my slowly diminishing stock of printers graphite powder and mixed 3 teaspoons full to half a tub of vasiline petroleum jelly. "Spooned" it in to a syringe [obtained foc from a local dispensary who looked at me with puzzlement when replying to them of the use that i was going to grease the propshafts of a model boat] and injected the concoction into the open stern end of the tube. 2 syringe fulls was just a little too much as there was a little squirt out from the motor end.

JOB DONE.

Then it was fitting the motors to the shafts……i used the rigid shaft coupling for straight alignment and to measure the thickness of the wooden engine bed to sit the motor on. meaqsurement fixced, i cut two out, mounted the motors on and then set the blocks into the hull using P38………not a glue, but sticky enough to keep the wooden blocks in place.

just one slight problem was that when i took my eye off the game, the starboard one slipped slightly and i will have to unscrew the motor………fill the screw holes with epoxy and then refit the motor so it is back in alignment with the shaft , thus avoiding out of line vibration. i alsi made my thrust washers from silicon tubing, rather than washers.

Also before fitting all, i filed flats onto both the inboard ends of the shafts and the output shafts of the motors to aid the grip of the allan studs

i came to the conlusion that my usual method of fixing motors into my old slow reving lifeboats……bluetack, just wouldn't cut the mustard with 19000 rpm motors, lol.

and miraculously more by good luck that management and fore thought, I managed to get the right propellors and shafts into the right tubes so that when rotating outwards from the fop they produce forward motion……………not done that before

[Richard SimpsonParticipant @richardsimpson88330]

When I first went to sea I was frequently responsible for lubricating the spindles of all the boiler valves and fittings on the auxiliary boiler and the economisers in the funnel. In those days we used what was known as "Black Oil and Graphite". The Black Oil was old engine oil from the Lube Oil Purifier drain tank and the graphite was flaked graphite from a tin in the stores. Mixed together into a thick paste and painted onto the spindles it was an excellent lubricant that withstood the heat better than anything else.

I've never thought of it for sealing tubes but graphite is a perfect lubricant and I use Vaseline myself on the tube ends to seal them.

I see you have a tin of Rocal as well, another graphite based lubricant, also on my shelf! The spray variety is also pretty handy in sme situations.

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

that is facinating Richard, and thanks for posting that…………i can't remember who told me about vaciline and graphite mixed but it has served me well for many years without any leaks.

and what is more, the gent who told me all those years ago told me that even though i sail predominantly in salt water. i would have no need to strip the tubes and shafts down regularly, just to repack them if i have had a heavy season….

however i take note of your history and use of similar mix, and reckon if it is good enough for a real ship, its good enough for my models…….

again, thanks for that, mate….very very interesting. cheers.

i do think the man who told me all those years ago was a man called Des Newton who organised the Southport Lifeboat rally, but cannot be sure, but thinking back, i'm sure Des was a merchant seaman…………but David Wooley knew him better than i.

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

Rudders have had their flats filed on the ends of the shafts, inserted into the rudder tubes, and therudder servo arms attached and linked up, using one servo to power both rudders simultaniously………

tomorrow i'll nake a servo box, fit a servo to the arm, and then think about charching some radio tx's to test the rudders and the trim tabes to make sure they work before i seal up the small access hatch.

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

a little more progress on fitting the steering servo.

base made from a strip of 10mm ply. pasted some filler to the underside and stuck it in place resting on the propeller tunnels.

then with some spare bits and pieces i connected the servo to the rudder linckages.

just have to build a box around the servo now to keep it in place.

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

the box for the servo has been made from some cherry wood and ply, and glued in place.

the steering for the tyne has now been completed

i'll charge some batteries for the tx/rx and have a play tomorrow to see if it all works as it should, tidy up the wires for the steering servo and the trim tabs and then close up the stern hatch.

[Richard SimpsonParticipant @richardsimpson88330]

Very neat. Is that a bottle screw adjuster or is it just a threaded socket for the clevis to screw into?

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

Posted by Richard Simpson on 09/07/2021 09:00:26:

Very neat. Is that a bottle screw adjuster or is it just a threaded socket for the clevis to screw into?

its an adjuster Richard. in fact Richard, it has an adjuster at both ends to make it easier than unclipping the clevis pin.also as a single adjuster on the rudder angle setting as well but hopefully the two rudders are about as parallel as i can get them on a pre set possition on the adjuster.

Edited By neil howard-pritchard on 09/07/2021 11:36:11

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

and after my hiatus of having to leave my Tyne class lifeboat for the past 10 months due to a commitment i foolishly made at around this time last year top "titivate" another model up……..

never again!!!

I CAN NOW GET BACK TO FINISHING MY FLEETWOOD LIFEBOAT……..whooop , whoop, whooooooop!!! as i have found some space to work in at last.

RNLB WILLIAM STREET here we go.

First job is to make sure that the servos, r/x and trim tabs work with the reversing switch i bought some time ago..

just sooohhhh glag i have got my mojo back after the last 3 months set backs for one reason or other…..

FULL STEAM [ or should i say Detroit V6 two stroke diesels] AHEAD.

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

so, now that i have the rudders linked up and working well, and the trim tabs well…………….hit and miss…..more miss at times, so might just lock them in a neutral possition , i moved on to the final part before i paint the deck.

ant that was to make the foreward most stanchions which the safety grab rails anchor too.

they were silver soldered together today from 2.4mm brass rod.

brackets for the grab rails soldered on, and then the deck plates made from 1.5mm plasticard…………they will be "rivited" with a fabric paint aplicator and then the deck marked and drilled.

Once drilled i can secure the aft hatch opening to access the trim tab servos fill the gaps, and then spray the textured paint on to the deck [after masking up the hull of course.

Hope tomorrow goes well.

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Keep up the good work Neil

I like the true quality of your workmanship

Very pleasing to study your methods pf production etc and results

Now then…… Which Neil are you?

I remember having a chat with a Jnr Neil and I thought he was you!

I thought it strange having a "Jnr" in the name

Please explain the confusion, I only know the Neil with the mass of fuzzy white hair! etc

All the best my mate

Bob

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

the mass of white curly hair is in fact me Bob, but the Jrneil stands for John robert neil, which are my fore names, followed by my hyphernated surname.

my genetic father died of an acute heart attack brought on by an asthma attack when i was 18 months old.9he was only 35 himself] and that is the first part of my surname, as was his…..Howard, and his fore names were John Robert, the Neil being tacked on so there was no confusion.when mother was shouting at who ever, lol

Then when my mum remarried a police officer based at Fleetwood when i was about 5 years old from what i was told at a young age, that was when the surname Pritchard was given, but in 1966 my dad, and the only dad i have known except for one photo of my blood father which surfaced when dad died in 2019 aged 94 and we went through the family "jewels" lol.,he formally adopted me and it was then that i became a hyphernated surname,…………………..

Howard-Pritchard…..

simples really.

hope this clears up the confusion, lol.

neil.

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Thank you, Neil

Message recieved and understood

Have a nice day

We`ve got rain this morning and it`s lovely

Bob

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

getting closer now to spraying the deck with textured none slip paint.

but first i had to make sure that the holes were drilled for the stanchions i made above.

marked out acurately they were drilled with a pilot hole and then enlarged to take the brass rod.

they were dry fitted to see that they sat straight and,…………

then the base plates taken off the stanchions and glued to the decks as they will be sprayed black to match the colour of the stanchions and then masked off before the main deck colour sprayed on.

finally the aft hatch that allowed access to the trim tab servos was placed back in the hole and glued and left to set. until later this afternoon. then the gaps will be filled with P38, and sanded off tomorrow.

[Richard SimpsonParticipant @richardsimpson88330]

Very neat and tidy, a lesson in silver soldering.

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

thanks Richard,

i find it easier to silver solder than i do soft soldering brass parts together. only time i ever soft solder these days is wiring or very thin brass sheet, and as i work in 1;12 scale the thin stuff very rarely comes in to play.

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

this evening i fully masked the hull of the TYNE, as the deck edge to the hull was a little ragged [not Dave Stavros Jones spraying,] just the way the deck was joined to the hull. and so i lightly sanded the deck edge for a smooth rounded join.

i then masked off the hull up to about 2mm between the hull sides and the deck. once masked, i sprayed the edge and deck lip with FORD R oyal blue to seal the edge of the masking tape.

now before Dave goes bananas with me the whole edge will be covered with the rubber belting, and the joint between the Royal blue and the RNLI RAL colour blue that Dave sprayed the hull with, will never be seen.

And once that had gone off and dried i left it a couple of hours, i sprayed the deck and edging with a grey primer to give a seperation mark between the deck edge and the textured paint that i will be applying tomorrow.

the edging is where the cleats and stanchions will sit, nice and flat, on a none textured surface.

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

This morning I bought some new low tack frog tape………almost as good as Tamya stuff, and then I tracked a line around the deck for the edging, before masking off.

Just to make sure of no seapage, which even Tamya tape can give……..I over sprayed with primer grey again and will leave for an hour to dry in my warm workshop.

Once that is up, I will go out and spray with my Rustoleum textured "Aged Iron" colour paint.

This is a "ONE COAT", even, all over spray. When applied it looks like a coat of jelly on the surface………and you stand back, close the garage door, and let it cure for 24 hours,,,,,,,.

Only then do you get the lovely finish of a gritted none slip deck. used it many times on my lifeboats…..Dave Stavros Jones absolutely detests the stuff, but it has always worked for me.

I have been using it for at least 15 years, and the only time I ever had a problem was where I had missed a bit one build and tried to overspray whilst the first coat was still tacky and curing. the second coat lifetd the first and all had to be repainted after stripping the lot……..impatience does not work with this paint.

I suppose its what works best for your own personal use, but it is so goooey that it usually clogs the exit tube of the can and the button on the top, and even when soaked in thinners it never sprays as well the second time and you may as well throw the tin away……..that is why it is a "ONE COAT" aplication as far as I am concerned.

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

TBH this textured paint looks awful when first aplied in one coat, looking gloopy and a mess……………

but when it cures [it doesn't dry as such] as it is like a resin, it ends up looking like the stern of my Shannon lifeboat.

IT will now be left until tomorrow at this time before any unmasking takes place.

[Richard SimpsonParticipant @richardsimpson88330]

It looks superb on the Shannon Neil and, with the contrast with the gloss orange, it really sets it up.

Edited By Richard Simpson on 28/07/2021 12:51:24

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

it gives a good result and settles down to a good level covering, but takes around 24 hours to get there……..if you try any quicker to even take the masking tape off it comes off the deck like stringy cheese lol.

learned from experience.

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

It must be the weather and the heat both outside and in my workshop, but the textured paint is going off already and reverting to the covering as shown on the shannon.

So have now, at this stage, as I always do in colder weather, turn on my electric fan heater to "bake" it to a final finish, but it has started turning now, and should be ready to strip the masking tape by around 20.00 hours tonight…..

Look forward to it, as then i can get the rubber belting on, and the red and yellow memorial banding on to the hull.

Am starting to enjoy the build again, and have done more to it in the last 72 hours than I have in the past 10 – 12 months.

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