TYNE Class Lifeboat build

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

as usual, i have made a blunder.when i sent Dave Stavros Jones the fittings for Mick French's Mersey to be painted along with his cabin and my boat, i enclosed into the pack to be painted orange, the two life ring brackets that go on the stern pulpit rails……..

they are supposed to be grey, as the rails and some stanchions are.

so in fact it has allowed me to muck up Daves painting and get away with it, for i had to make some brackets this evening from plastic tube which fits around the rails and glues to the plastic of the holder. By using plastic weld glue it has crinkled the paint work around where the brackets glue.

You can see the efect of putting plastiweld on to 2 pack and cellulose/acrylic paint on photos 2 and 5.

But, because of the fact that they should be grey, the crinkled paint will be rubbed smooth and then sprayed my personal grey……..Ford Polar Grey.

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

just having a play and having a dry fit of the toe boards for the aft pulpit rails……

took me a few minutes to find one of the short toe boards as it had become estranged from all the others.
its just to see what length i have to trim the stanchions too. which i'll do tomorrow and then glue together readying for spraying.

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

you get to a stage in life, never mind model building, when you are not quite in control of your "destiny" and in model building it is exactly the same.and its two steps forward and one back…………………..or in todays fiasco it was one forward and TWO back

fitted all of the pulpit rails to the to boards via the toe board brackets. i had made them from cast polyurethane resin some time back, thinking they were strong enough…….could have used some white metal ones but chanced it………that gamble didn't pay off as one of them broke almost immediately when i accidentally dropped it on the floor and the plastic gave in, where as the brass rails didn't.

the plastic stanchions with molded brackets wont be so tender.

Hoever after a little giggery pokery and some strengthening with brass tubing [although not quite to scale] will be strong enough to stand the rogours of even Mick French's handling.

and so i fitted the rails top the toe boards and then dry fit them all to the deck so that both the pulpit rails and the tops of the stanchions sit level on the deck.

and then………the other step backward. on looking at the life ring brackets, one U shaped holder on the bottom of the bracket had "pinged" off somewhere, and so i had to make another of those, using plasticard and heating it on the cooker to bend it………….small job, that could have not been neaded had i not been clumsy myself….

the bracket is still loose somewhere……………..grrrrrr.

but at least all stanchions and rails can now be painted, ready for fitting.

the bed for the two quick release towing fairleads on the stern, with the small brass roller bollard have been sized up and the base for the roller bollard and fairlead have benn chopped down from that fitting made for the Tyne class stern fairlead and bollard……..fits a treat.

theres going to be a lit of painting tomorrow, lol.

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

Except for a few parts which were painted earlier, all parts for the Mersey, and a few for the Tyne that were handy have all been spray painted with filler primer.

later, perhaps tomorrow I will get up early for a change and give them all a grey undercoat primer, before painting them in batches in their finished colours, black, grey, white alluminium/chrome and "brass/bronze"

Once dry, then it will be just a task od attaching them to the hulland deck, before adjusting to fit, each section of the stanchion sets………and then these will be fitted. Hopefully by friday evening or Saturday.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited By neil howard-pritchard on 17/03/2021 20:54:35

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

today was paint the parts day.

and so i taped them in to seperate colours on scrap hardboard rectangles.

then just sprayed each section of fittings………white, black, grey. alluminium/silver and ford gold [nearest to brass/bronze]

And then………it was down to getting the toe boards with fitted stanchions onto the deck thwarts so that there was a slight "toe in" towards the centre of the vessel.

This entailed using my linisher to sand the base of each stanchiom board to an angle to take into account the camber at the thwarts of the boat to allow the head of the stanchion to be leaning in towards the cabin. Each set needed a slightly different amount of sanding to get the same angle of "lean".

even sprayed the two colours for the whip areals, lol.

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

think i over did it with the number of bases that i painted for the fairleads………but better more than less, lol………..

but i have started putting the bits together to make a whole one or more.

the fairleads have been glued to the bases and are ready for fitting to the deck of the Mersey, and evemtually the Tyne.

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

As i couldn't see a "fishermans" pattern type anchor on the plans i have for the mersey, i have been wondering about fitting one, and where/how.

But this morning

Martin Kinghoward

solved my dilemma by posting photos of a Mersey with one on the starboard bow.

just what i needed………….Martin, you must be a mind reader, but it has helped greatly.

here is my interpretation of the deck brackets that hold the anchor in place. i have the upright bracket and post in my box of tricks and this will be added to the fixture once anchor and brackets are painted and also fitted.

[geconParticipant @gecon]

Morning Neil,

May I ask what you have painted the fairleads and anchor with? I've been having trouble with my old tins of Testor's and Humbrol metallics not drying/cureing so well.

May be that I simply don't wait long enough, but Ray has observed some Humbrol metallics being permanently 'soft'.

Planning to try a Tamiya acrylic(Titanium silver) this weekend and just wondered if your metallics above are acrylic?

George

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

hi george……..Halfords rattle cans, either alluminium, chrome, silver or in the brass coloured ones……Ford Gold.

[geconParticipant @gecon]

Thanks Neil, might have to resort to this if I can't sort the problem.

Have just done a new test on my Humbrol silver. Thinned it out about 5% and painted by brush straight onto a scrap of brass tube. Touch test tomorrow for fingerprints!

George

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

Posted by gecon on 20/03/2021 13:37:41:

Thanks Neil, might have to resort to this if I can't sort the problem.

Have just done a new test on my Humbrol silver. Thinned it out about 5% and painted by brush straight onto a scrap of brass tube. Touch test tomorrow for fingerprints!

George

i always, even with a humbrol enamel, spray an undercoat or filler primer first to give a key to the top coat, whether acrylic, cellulose or enamel……..but never put an enamel on first, and then an acrylic or cellulose on top of your enamel………..you will just get orange peel reaction and the paint will crinkle and flake off.

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

The "Fishermans" pattern anchor, [and from asking friends about this type, it is the only anchor that the boat I am building carried at her point in life] has now been finished as per deck brackets and holding stock and so will go for painting as soon as there is a break in the tv prog I am watching.

Then it will be put asside whilst I assess if there is anything more to fabricate and paint before i put all the bits and pieces on to the boat.

And as I am still within my proposed deadline to finish it by the end of March I am quite happy with progress.

[geconParticipant @gecon]

The anchor detail and chain are nothing short of fantanstic. Truly superb work Neil. Though we never expect to see anything less on this build-blog.

George

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

thank you George, your comments are greatly appreciated.

however i cannot take any credit for the anchor chain. i bought that some years ago from Jotika Coldercraft by a meter length…..beautiful stuff it is too.

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

Needed to make two water valves for the fire fighting hoses fitted into recesses on the fore end of the cabin, port and starboard.

lateral thinking and the use of everyday items came into the mix, and along with some plastic tubing came into play.

take two "pin board" pins with ball ends, and snip the actual pims off .

the rest is just using differentt interfitting plastic tubing for the valve fittings, and bob's your uncle, fanny's your ant, as my old mum would say as she put a creation into the oven to bake.

the valve wheels for the two will be made from the centre of a TV areal co-axial cable sliced thinly and glued on to the brass pin.

[Eddie LancasterParticipant @eddielancaster]

Nothing short of ingenious, I have great difficulty in this lateral thinking lark.

A beautiful build and attention to detail all through the build.

Regards.

Eddie.

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

thank you Eddie……..much appreciate your comments.

they truly spurr me on, to receive them. cheers,

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hi Neil

Your attention to detail is a sight for sore eyes!

The build ingenunity, if that`s how it`s spelt, is very surprising and very entertaining to watch during creation

You richly deserve the praise that is flying about!

All the best, my mate

Bob

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

thank you Bob………it came to me in an instant the other night to use the pins, as i was looking for something else……..i tend not to throw anything away, and why my workshop looks like a junk yard……and the small wheels came to me many years ago when i was making a model warship……….co-axial cables are great for tiny wheels…..

and at the same time, i painted and glued the anchor to its locating deck brackets……they just have to be tied and secured now before gluing it to the deck!

 

Edited By neil howard-pritchard on 21/03/2021 17:07:06

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

the aray of cabin top areals have been fabricated, loosley on Chris Beynon's fabulous ones that he has produced and shown photos of on here earlier today.

the odd toadstool shaped one has been fabricated by using a piece of milliput white moulded around a piece of plastic tube glued tp a core of 1mm stainless steel rod.That one will then be sanded to shape once the milliput has cured.

they aren't anywhere near the sname standard as Chris's, but wont look too bad once painted.

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

well!!!, last night,

Chris Beynon

asked me if i was going to produce the aerials for the Mersey and other lifeboats from the masters i had made and shown last night,

never let it be said that i am not up for a challenge, and so this morning i laid them up in plasticine ready for moulding.

you will see that the steel wire is still attached, and also protruding out of the mould box……..do not dispair….

i'll be lucky if the resin once moulds have been made in two halves will ever run down the thin track of the steel…………

however once a casting is ready for going in, i just put into the track that has been left in the rubber by the steel wire, a piece of stainless steel, very slightly smaller in diameter into that track so that it penetrates the base by aproximately 10 – 15mm and then cast away. the steel is then embedded into the newly cast resin, and stuck in place………

well!!! thats the idea………worked well once before, so dont see why it shouldnt this time.

then i just mixed the rubber and catylist, and poured into the moulding box, made from lego bricks.

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

second half laid up and now curing on the nice hot radiator.

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

some you win, some you lose, and this one i lost!

the molds came out, so i thought well,and i removed the masters that i had made.

and so i cut the tracks to pour the resin in, made two ply backing boards and inserted the wire for the aerials……and then i cast them!

it wasn't so much a disaster, as more a waste of silicon rubber, casting resin and time.

some of the items only cast half an object, and it took two casts to get one set plus a few spares out of the moulds.

also it was a pain to keep the wires from falling out of the bottom of the mould.

on the first casting i held them into the mould with masking tape and plasticine. the second mould i "stuck" the wires in place using vaciline, and although that worked better, the overall effort was not worth the expenditure of resin, for what i could sell them for.

in fact it fook me at least 2 hours to clean them up ready for painting…………and i made the masters in less time……

so sadly, this set of fittings is a dead duck in the water, and i'll shred the rubber to pad out some more moulds in the future.
the last photo is of the waste in a container from just 2 castings……….

i know when i'm beaten with a mould lol.

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

this is going to please my friend Mick French…….who's model this is.

i've started to fit the deck fittings [ made months ago] using 2 part epoxy glue, setting time of 30 minutes to get a better adhesion rate

Done the starboard side and bow deck tonight,and now going to have a couple of beers, whilst watching the goggle box, and will do the port side tomorrow morning along with the aft deck fittings.

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

hadn't started a beer yet so did the port side and stern bitt as well

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