Tin Plate Clyde Puffer

[Len Morris 2Participant @lenmorris2]

Hi Jim,

Very kind.  I’ve said before it’s not a race and my boat is half the size of yours and not to your standard.  Fun to do but just a toy really!

Len.

[Richard SimpsonParticipant @richardsimpson88330]

Len, Great little radio, perfect for your use.

[Len Morris 2Participant @lenmorris2]

My Microzone 6C R/C set arrived from Howes.  Need to correct an earlier mistake.  Howes say Microzone are an established radio manufacturer TO the UK.  I read it as IN the UK.  Needless to say it was made in China not the UK.  My mistake.

There are no instructions with it and you have to read the Q code on the box or go on the Microzone web site.  When found they are a bit minimalist.

The receiver has 7 sockets.  1 through 6 for the channels and one labelled M-BUS.  The first problem I had was knowing where to plug in the power supply.  I called Howes and they were very helpful.  The answer was any of the channel sockets.  When I pointed out that this would effectively make it a 5 channel set Howes had an internal discussion and said to use the M-BUS socket.  Not done it yet but suppose you have to have faith!

Not sure what M-bus is all about and the web site immediately starts talking about S-Bus!  Not much plain speak about.  As long as it accepts the battery input, then job done.

(I know mi Mtronics speed controller has a BEC in it but that’s not the point. Six channels should mean six free channels.)

There was no comment about the aerial.  Horizontal or vertical?  Suppose I’ll find out and it might not be important.

Overall a nice set for the price and Howes were very helpful.  The proof will be in the Puffing.

Len. 🙂

 

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

Len,

It is many years since RC sets were manufactured in the UK!

There is a general assumption that the BEC from a speed controller is normally used to supply power to the receiver these days. Howes are right in that any channel can be used to accept a separate power supply. All the positive pins and all the negative pins are each connected together. There are six signal output pins so there are six usable channels. If you want to use all six and have a separate power supply you can simply connect a Y lead to one of the channels with one arm leading to the power supply positive and negative terminals.

I think the M Bus/S Bus provides additional functions for more complex options but again that socket is also connected to the positive and negative ‘buses’ within the receiver so it is perfectly OK to plug your power supply into that.

Colin

[Len Morris 2Participant @lenmorris2]

Thanks Colin, you’re right.  All the pos pins and neg pins are connected across all the seven sockets.  Just didn’t want a FU on a new set.

Len

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

Quite agree, better safe than sorry! If in doubt, check!

Colin

[Len Morris 2Participant @lenmorris2]

Powered up mi R/C system (using the M-Bus socket) and it worked a treat with mi rudder servo.  I was still wondering about few things so here’s what I found.

On start up you have to ‘bind’ the receiver to the transmitter.  Worked fine but I wondered if it needed doing on every start up.  Apparently not.  Once they’re married they stay so.

The instructions on the web say to maintain line of sight with the model.  It worked fine with mi house in the way over a distance of about 100 yards.

The last thing I tried for obvious reasons was the same thing with the aerial and receiver inside a tin can.  It still worked!  Very pleased and happy.

Not installed in the boat yet as I need to get some some more plugs to go in the receiver.  I ordered Tamia plugs from Component Shop but they were far too big (the size of postage stamps).  I need plugs about the size of a little finger nail which I think are Futaba plugs.  I’ll talk with CS after the bank holiday.

Made mi hatch cover in the mean time from 2mm ply.  I now know it could have been tinplate but was bothered at the time about the R/C reception.  I don’t think I’ll try and mimic plank hatch covers as the whole thing will be eventually covered with a tarpaulin.

Here’s a couple of pictures,

Len.

 

[Richard SimpsonParticipant @richardsimpson88330]

Len the plugs you need to go into the receiver are already fitted to the servos and the speed controller that you will buy.  You don’t need to buy plugs for the receiver.

For servos you can get from most RC model suppliers, cheap ones on Ebay or go to Servo Shop:

Servo Shop Link

Who know their stuff and will advise you of the best servo for your needs.

Speed controllers, again plenty of cheap ones on Ebay but all my models are fitted with Mtroniks Viper units.  More expensive but better quality and excellent support from a UK based company:

Mtroniks Link

[Len Morris 2Participant @lenmorris2]

Hi Richard, I have several servo’s and an Mtroniks Viper Marine 15 speed controller in mi spares box.  They are all missing their plugs having been fitted to other R/C systems in years gone by.  Can’t see the point throwing them away for the sake of a few new plugs.  Thanks for the links.

Len.

[Richard SimpsonParticipant @richardsimpson88330]

Ah! Understood.  You might find something like this handy then:

Servo Plug Kit

[Len Morris 2Participant @lenmorris2]

Well done Richard, just what I need.

Len.

[Len Morris 2Participant @lenmorris2]

A bit more progress.  The trays for the battery (6 volt SLA) and the R/X and ESC are in place.  Made from 1.5mmm ply and they clip in place around the ribs.

The mast pedestal is is done and fixes to the deck and bulkhead underneath with a couple of M2 cap screws.  I can get the mast angle right by shimming the base if it needs adjusting.

The hatch cover has been covered with it’s brown paper tarpaulin and the straps fitted.  Here’s a picture of everything thrown together.

Len.

[James Hill 5Participant @jameshill5]

Progressing well Len. I like the effect on your hatch cover and the mast pedestal is something I have to make later.

Jim.

[Len Morris 2Participant @lenmorris2]

Been a busy week but all the internals are now in place and it works!

The aerial snaps into the yellow bar across the battery and the bar itself has a compression spring underneath it to hold the battery in place and twists to release it.  The receiver and speed control are fixed in place with Velcro.

There’s much detail work yet to do but hopefully she’ll be launched tomorrow on father’s day!

Len. 🙂

[Richard SimpsonParticipant @richardsimpson88330]

Have you tested it in the bath first Len?

[Len Morris 2Participant @lenmorris2]

Absolutely!  All ballasted and levelled to the water line.  The only issue now is what to use on the day, Newcastle Brown, Iron Bru or Fiz!

Len. 🙂

[Len Morris 2Participant @lenmorris2]

Well, never made it to the pond on the day.  Final bath test in the morning and all worked fine until on full astern she just stopped in the water.  Thought the gear drive had failed until I saw the prop lying on the bottom!  Lucky really, if she had been on the pond the prop would have been lost forever.

I’d had the prop just screwed and tightened onto the shaft.  Obviously not sufficiently.  During the week, took the drive all apart, side drilled the prop for a stainless M2 grub screw and put a matching flat on the shaft.  It won’t come off again!

She was launched yesterday!  Excellent weather and with Rule Britannia playing on mi phone and a splash of Wood’s Old Navy Rum on the bows she was off.  Here’s a pic-

Very controllable in all respects with plenty of available power in reserve.  It’s not an ‘official’ boating pond but the ducks just ignored it and the passing parents and kids loved it with many kind comments.

Back in dock she proved to be totally dry inside.  Now it’s time for the final finishing and all the missing detail.  I’m not going overboard on her.  She looks so small on the water that most of the detail will never be seen.

Len. 🙂

[mmcp42Participant @mmcp42]

Len

Looks great on the water

is the “bridge” only on one side or is it just the perspective of the picture?

and good call to do first sea trial in the bath!!!

cheers

Mike

[James Hill 5Participant @jameshill5]

Well done Len, a great result. Your right about the detail, it’s an unfortunate part of the build where you put detail on that disappears when out on the water, but we like to do it anyway.

Great to see another Puffer on the water.

Jim.

[Richard SimpsonParticipant @richardsimpson88330]

Looks the part Len. Glad you didn’t loose the prop.  Most of us lock it with a half nut and some put a spot of Loctite on the thread as well.  You should be OK with a grub screw.

 

[Len Morris 2Participant @lenmorris2]

Hi Mike and Jim,

Thanks for your pleasant  comments.

The wheel house is central, it’s just the poor picture.

I agree Jim about detail.  We do just like to do it for ourselves!  They are a long way from being added yet but here’s my seagulls (a present from my daughter that she made from resin).

Len.

[Len Morris 2Participant @lenmorris2]

Third time out sailing last Sunday.  Rain and wind.  Not many passers by.  Nothing but nice comments from the few who were there.  After about 20 minutes could sense she was struggling on the throttle.  The problems about sailing in duck ponds!

Len. 🙂

[mmcp42Participant @mmcp42]

oof that’ll slow you right down

and feathers are tough

[James Hill 5Participant @jameshill5]

Hi Len,

That’s certainly not what you want tangled round the prop. No wonder you slowed down.

At the moment modelling is at a stop for me, (which is why I haven’t posted anything ). I managed to fall out the backdoor into the garden and head butted a large flower pot. Hospital trip, stitches, dodgy leg , making getting around difficult so things have slowed right down. Hopefully once back to normal (?) the boat will move forward again.

Keep enjoying your sailing.

Jim.

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

Sorry to hear that Jim, sound’s very nasty and must have really shaken you up. Hope you feel better soon.

Colin

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