Fairey Huntress 23 Long Cabin Version

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Thanks David

Haven't done anything on the Faireys for a couple of weeks as been working on another project. Hoping to get back onto them next week.

Chris

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Doesn't time fly!

Had a sort out a couple of weeks back to make some space to swing a hamster in the small bedroom/workroom ready for when the weather turned more model building friendly.

As it has done now, and as mentioned on someone else's thread, I've bought the paint and brushes, I've made a start on the preparation. I'm concentrating on the less common (now) Huntsman 28 and the even less common (probably unique) River Cruiser 23 and this Huntress Long Cabin with stern-drive.

There were some blemishes to be filled on the hulls (which I'm painting first) so I also bought some fine filler; UPOL Dolphin 1k Stopper. With this hull it is mainly the aftermath of fitting the strakes that requires most attention. I'm pleased with how the plastic strakes worked out with their nice sharp lines and how the canopy glue secured them (a couple of small areas had to be reglued) but unsurprisingly the glue line is wider than the strakes and will be obvious when painted. Usually this would just be sanded but as the glue has retained some flexibility it won't really sand. In the end I've had to resort to carefully using my small Veritas chisels along both sides of each strake and to each strake itself to remove the glue. Also at the strake/hull interface there were small "chippings" of glue that wouldn't just blow off but had to be removed with the chisel. Bit of a ball ache especially as when you thought you were done you'd see more!

I then debated whether I'd form a small fillet to each side of the strakes. On the Huntress 28 this was easy as I'd used timber and formed the fillet with Eze-Kote and Micro-balloons. I decided I would, using the filler, as in some places there were still signs of glue "chippings" despite my best efforts, and the fillet would provide even more adhesion. I'm not looking for a perfect finish but don't want to spoil my efforts other with the build. So I'm progressing that task but you need breaks!

I hate strakes! And the Swordsman 33 and Huntsman 31 have plastic ones as well! Thankfully my two planned future Faireys don't have strakes though another non-Fairey project will have – I might use timber on that!

Chris

Edited By Chris Fellows on 06/09/2022 16:45:24

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Filling along each side of the strakes took some time, especially as there were four to each side but that was duly completed. The filler dries quite quickly but I've tried to sand filler too soon before so I left it overnight to completely harden.

Then I had to sand it all smooth, which I did with small pieces of 350 and 400 grit folded over to get into the angles etc. Another time consuming task but when it comes to paint preparation it's got to be done even if you're itching to get started with the paint!

I'd bought a cheap turn-table off Amazon quite sometime ago in readiness for painting. I cut out a circle of non-slip material to cushion between the hard plastic and the deck and to stop the model sliding about. The turn-table made fitting the Tamiya tape to the underside of the rubbing strip easier and of course then the painting itself.

I'd bought some good quality brushes for the top coats but for the primer/undercoat I used a cheap brush – it lost a few bristles and left brush strokes but the latter didn't matter as I would be sanding and applying another coat. Some minor blemishes did show up along the keel line so a bit more filling will be required.

It's nice applying paint, especially where you've used dissimilar materials as it pulls them together and provides uniformity, even though I do like the natural timber finish. I'm pleased with how the strakes look as well even though they have been a bit of a pain!

Chris

[Richard SimpsonParticipant @richardsimpson88330]

Very neat job Chris. Just goes to show you can achieve a high standard of finish without using a spray can. The way those strakes graft into the chine was well worth the effort.

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Thanks Richard, mind you, you can't see the brush strokes! Having said that it's come out pretty good and looking forward to see what can be achieved with the top coat.

Chris

[DJWParticipant @djw]

Great see progress Chris, can't wait to see more, the workmanship is meticulous..! I have those veritas chisels too, surprised at how often they come in useful for precise or confined jobs.

Best regards David.

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Morning David.

Yes, they are great little chisels aren't they and as you say have come in useful for lots of little jobs. I bought one of their planes as well but don't use that much as I find setting the blade difficult.

Chris

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Haven't posted much as I'm still doing other things but as winter approaches I plan to spend more time on the builds.

As you can see from my earlier post I'm using International Paints paint, being their One UP primer/undercoat and Toplac Plus topcoat. Only used the One UP so far and as you'd expect from a quality paint it is performing as you would want. It covers well and adhers well to the styrene strakes and Eze-Kote to the hull and is suitable for a range of other substrates.

When dry it forms a satin finish, which is quite hard, which is good as it doesn't sand off too easily, apart from high points, and so doesn't readily expose the substrate. I did do this in some places as was the first coat applied and partly to identify any areas that required surface filling. Some small areas were required and once dry and sanded down a further coat was applied to the underside of the hull which will be white – decided on this as the styrene strakes are white and with quite a point on them (despite running the silicone-carbide over it) if the paint gets rubbed off in use it won't be that noticeable – may do that on the other hulls with styrene strakes but will see.

I ditched the cheap brush as it was quite coarse and left distinct brush strokes which required sanding out. Used a better quality brush for the second coat, which was better but still requires sanding as the paint is thick to apply and thinning isn't recommended. No problem as it does sand beautifully with 400 grit. I have even better quality brushes for the topcoat as recommended by other forum members.

The hull sides will be second coated (maybe three once sanded) with the blue One UP once the bottom has been glossed and left to harden. The Huntsman 28 in the background will be the reverse with a blue bottom (timber, well rounded strakes) and white sides.

Chris

[DJWParticipant @djw]

Hi Chris

Looks to be coming along nicely. A few long dark winter months of work and could be ready for Wicksteed in May…!

Very best regards

David.

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi David & Chris,

May probably……………… But which year ??

Regards Ray

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Thanks David, nicely but slowly! As Ray says which May?!

Must admit I'm finding the painting a little frustrating at the moment, not helped by doing three at the same time; the Huntress, River Cruiser and Huntsman 28.

As I said before the primer undercoat is good but with using small brushes it tends to build up unevenly where over brushing and it starting to dry and also some brush strokes. It then takes quite a bit of sanding to get the paint flat again and is fiddly on the hulls with strakes. When sanding I've also noticed new areas that need a bit of filling which then need to be painted again. After yesterdays sanding I thought I'd be ready to start the top coat today but with the brighter, low light coming through the window this morning I saw that more sanding needed to be done which then resulted in more spot primer and hence more sanding tomorrow! I'm not looking for perfection but I want it to look pretty decent.

So that the hulls are completely coated and watertight I'm going to paint them completely white initially and then add blue later or maybe leave them as is. I can then finish fitting them out and try them on the water and then carry on with the superstructures. Once I've top coated these 3 I shall move onto the Huntsman 31 and Swordsman.

Trouble is as well that I'm missing building and thoughts keep turning to my other planned builds!

Chris

[DJWParticipant @djw]

Haha… Yes, I forgot to specify which May… Well, I'll just have to keep going til you show up with the fleet..!

I've been thinking about the 'not thinning' of the international paint. I didn't know it was an issue / not recommended and not sure why it would be. Whether it would affect the finish or whether they need / recommend a thickness of coat for the paint to do its protective thing in a full on marine environment… I did thin their 'Original' Varnish almost 50/50 for some coats and it was fine, very different product I know. But two of the reasons for me to thin it was to avoid brush strokes, and to make sure it didn't build up to radius a sharp inside edge. And you have a lot of those on the lifting strakes and chine rail. Wondered whether you've tried thinning the paint on a test piece…?

Best regards

David.

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Chris,

It's going to take a lot of coats of blue to cover that white !!

Grey Halfords primer takes a lot of beating as a neutral background, rather late now

I can't see the point of thinning the paint for brush painting, maybe ok for spraying, but if you paint on a horizontal surface you will get a mirror finish

Are you putting a cardboard box over the hull after painting it really does help prevent the dust settling ?

Regards Ray

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Hi David – I did try thinning the primer undercoat by dipping the brush in the thinners to smooth out some of the build-up and it did help but it was too thin then, needs to be properly thinned. As you say, it's probably not recommended with full-size craft to reduce the number of coats required (actually just checked the instructions and it can be thinned up to 10% but it says that additional coats may then be required).

Hi Ray – Yes, as I said, I may not bother and leave them all white, maybe do the H31 and Swordsman two-tone? Once on the water it won't matter!

The Toplac Plus can be thinned up to 10% to aid with brush or roller application but it's much thinner than the One UP and doesn't really need it, certainly on the first coats. Maybe a bit as the tin goes down as it tends to thicken or when doing the final coats.

I noted your cardboard box idea and have a nice large one in the shed ready and waiting. Not using it yet as will be sanding between coats.

Today I sanded down the spot priming and applied some top coat! See River Cruiser thread.

Chris

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

I've now got some gloss on the Huntress as well. I'm pleased with how the styrene strakes have tuned out and the hull looks like a fibreglass/moulded one now!

Chris

[Will Mason 1Participant @willmason1]

Good to see you're getting some paint on them Chris.

They're gonna look great fully painted and on the water.

Will

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Hi Will

Yes, it feels as though you're making real progress when the paint starts to go on. Still a lot of work to do on the superstructures though.

I really must concentrate on one or two once all the hulls have been painted.

Chris

[Will Mason 1Participant @willmason1]

It's great to see them taking shape Chris and I can imagine how good it feels after the build from scratch to get to paint stage.

Keep up the good work.

Will

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

I have been doing a bit now and again over the last few weeks, mainly sanding off most of the previously applied coat!

Despite using good quality brushes, the brush strokes were still more visible than I wanted though the finish was better once I'd thinned the paint a little, though you then have to be careful of runs. paint also needed to be thinned because it was thickening in the tin over time.

Anyway I've called it a day now, having applied a number of coats. The finish isn't perfect but it's good enough, otherwise it's difficult to know when to stop, more so when doing multiple hulls.

Still painting the other two hulls and once done can turn to the Huntsman 31 and Swordsman which will benefit, hopefully, from what I've learned.

I'm very happy with the paint though and once dry it provides a nice hard and hopefully hard-wearing finish, though of course the Faireys will be molly-coddled!

Chris

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Chris,

Well you are the perfectionist that I wish I was ! but sadly I'm not

Still onwards and upwards, which one's going to be in the water first ??

Improved but smaller 30" Aerokits PT boat for me next year

Regards Ray

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Consider yourself lucky Ray, it can be a hard cross to bear!

Will probably be this Huntress or the River Cruiser and maybe both at the same time for testing purposes before finishing the superstructures.

I take you are doing your own drawings for the PT Boat?

Chris

[Richard SimpsonParticipant @richardsimpson88330]

Beautiful finish Chris. Just goes to show what can be achieved with a brush and a bit of care, attention and patience.

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Thanks Richard.

Just about to give the hull bottom of the River Cruiser another coat after I sanded it down yesterday. No strakes!

Chris

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

The trouble with my stop start building is that I sometimes forget where I've got to and the methods used for doing things! Not helped by me having had a tidy up, well more of a rearrange of the workroom and I couldn't find things!

The fist two problems were helped by looking at my photos and the third just took time.

Anyway, first job was to begin painting of part of the inside of the hull. I apply a couple of coats of Eze-Kote which provides some resistance to light water ingress but with this model and the multiple holes through the transom, even though I will be using some silicone, there is a chance that water will get into the rear compartment. Two coats of primer-undercoat has been applied and this will be followed up by a couple of coats of the Toplac Plus.

I then returned to the windows in order to progress the superstructure. Made the other side front window surround from 0.5mm plastic sheet and then one of the rears. When offered up though I noticed that the rear was a bit deeper than the front so I'm going to remake that one. Lesson learned!

Chris

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Like Ray, I am not such the perfectionist I could be, but that’s a nice job Chris, and when you finally get that nice finish, you realise the work has been worth it.

The only things I have which I really made a massive effort over were the Larsen, as the original was finished in an almost perfect mirror black, and the Sutcliffe Valiant….being pressed steel and sprayed, they were also almost perfectly finished as models.

Ashley

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