My experience of building a model boat, is best described as "very limited". I did try sailing a RC Laser a few years ago but didn't really get on with the racing. I'll try and share a few photos here, illustrating some of the key points. Although Benjoman's thread shows a very impressive result and is a very useful source of advice and guidance.

Its useful to pin the parts list on the wall as well, as the instructions refer to the part numbers, not part names.

I used West Epoxy and some filler to fix the beams in place. Be careful when sanding the deck edging strips, so not to damage the edge of the moulding – the instructions explain these edging strips need to be 1.5mm lower than the edge.

Its useful to cut the deck holes out and cut the bow area to shape. In that way its possible to ensure that the deck openings line up with the deck beams. Also it was possible to measure the deck to ensure the beam is the correct size at each point. I drilled the deck and support for the mast and used a short length of 12mm dowel to ensure the deck was placed correctly.

Thanks Colin – his review was very helpful. There was another review I found, in Marine Modelling International, November 2008 by John Cox. I managed to pick up copies of both on eBay – I find its easier to read from paper rather than a screen !

Am currently trying to get the rudder profile finished – the plastic is quite soft – might consider giving it a thin layer of glass tissue, before sanding smooth.

Getting the rudder fitted is not easy and once in, the design does not allow it to be removed. The instructions say solder the steering arm to the rudder, I hoping that by threading the rudder spindle and the arm, and then using two nuts and some locktite, will avoid the need for soldering.

The other thing that is clear and reading Benjoman's thread helps considerably, is that getting the winch and associated pullies relative height correct now is important. Like many things in life, make an early mistake/error it influences everything afterwards.

Id marked out the water, as described in the instructions and also added some masking tape at the bow & stern, this made it easier to see where the boat is sitting in the water. Added a little over 9lb of lead shot and poured in some West Epoxy to hold it all in place. It is suggested to have some extra removable ballast, that can be added later.

Had some reservations about trimming the deck – as you can't "trim in back on again". However, to make things easier I drilled the mast support and deck, then used a short length of dowel, so the deck was always placed in the same position and with some careful use of a David plane, the final fit is quite good. Have given it a coat of stain and two coats of thinned varnish. Have also been exploring which fittings will be screwed to the deck and have added blocks to the framework, with the aim of screwing the deck down where possible when it comes to gluing it in place – thus helping to hold it in place, while the glue/epoxy cures.

Fitting the RC equipment etc. – before the deck is finally fixed down.

Its good to see other boats and how they have been made – most welcome

Have added the sail winch and this seems to work, using a spring to keep the loop in tension. Am using a FykySky FS-i6, have set the end points to 70% and this gives around 400mm of travel, which is far greater than the recommended 300mm, so will reduce the end points some more. The plan is to use some bowies on the loop to attach the sheets to. The instructions suggest that the rudder spindle is soldered to the arm, but this seems a little permanent, so have decided to use two lock nuts and some Locktite. The brass arm is also threaded M3.

It starting to feel things are getting permanent – as once the deck is on, things become much harder to modify. Have tried a dry fix, using some of the fittings which can be screwed down, helping to hold the deck in place, (along with some tape etc.) while the epoxy sets.

Nothing is permanent yet !

Thanks Steven – an excellent idea

Before I glue the deck down I'll have a practice removing things – the receiver is currently held in place by velcro.

The underside is Halfords red primer, which is a matt finish and gives the impression of antifouling. The top sides is Halfords Vauxhall Regatta Blue. Even being careful, I did manage to have some runs, which meant the use of some fine and wet n dry, followed by another spray. It's not perfect but acceptable, especially when seen from a distance while sailing on the water. The masking tape did work well, only a couple small dashes from the red primer getting on the waterline, which was easy to clean off.