Spurn Light Vessel

Spurn Light Vessel

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  • This topic has 22 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 54 minutes ago by Richard Simpson.
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  • #128883
    Gareth Jones
    Participant
      @garethjones79649

      Hi everyone,  its a long time since I posted anything on the MB Forum.  My last scale project was a 1:16 scale model of a Humber Sloop, based on the builder’s drawings of Spider T, which I finished in 2019.  I kept a build log on this forum and I guess its still here somewhere, assuming it survived the forum changes.

      I have not been completely idle over the last 7 years but defected to the world of vintage model yachts, completed the build of two A class yachts to Bill Daniels designs, and restored a third,  scratch built a 6M yacht to the John Lewis Petrel design and restored a 70 year old 10 Rater.

      Following a visit to the Isle of Man to attend the Manx Model Boat Club’s Manannan event this summer I decided at the grand old age of 77 I still have another scale model project to complete.  This will be another build with a local interest, given that I live in East Yorkshire and will be a 1:24 scale model of the Spurn light vessel which is moored in the marina in Hull and celebrates its centenary next year.

      P1020706

      I considered this as a project about 15 years ago and obtained some drawings from the Maritime Museum in Hull.  Unfortunately they did not have the hull sections drawing, only a plan and elevation so the project was parked for lack of information to define the hull shape.  I recently contacted the National Maritime Museum in Greenwich and they had a copy of the hull sections drawing by the original builders, the Goole Shipbuilding and Repairing Company so I ordered a copy.  The drawings are quite expensive but the quality of the prints was first class and accurately to scale.  I have made a start on cutting out the frames and fixing them to the building board so keep an eye on the forum to follow the progress.

      #128884
      Colin Bishop
      Moderator
        @colinbishop34627

        Welcome back Gareth, a lot of water has passed under the bridge since you were last here. Being much the same age as yourself, I recall seeing the Calshot Spit lightship on station back in the 1960s when travelling to and from Cowes on the Isle of Wight. After retirement the vessel was exhibited, set in concrete, at Ocean Village in Southampton Docks where I saw it decades later. Subsequently it has been moved to the Solent Sky Museum where the intention is to restore it but there doesn’t seem to be much recent information.

        https://www.nationalhistoricships.org.uk/register/144/light-vessel-78-calshotspit

        When I had my own boat in the 90s/00s we sometimes called in at Haslar Marina at Portsmouth where the former lightship Mary Mouse II was used  for marina accommodation and shower facilities. It is now a dining venue!

        Main Home

        Colin

         

        #128908
        ashley needham
        Participant
          @ashleyneedham69188

          Hi Gareth. An attractive boat.

          Are you planning on motorising it and having a decent bright flashing light in the tower?

          Not looked it up but were most lightship simply towed into position.  ?

          Ooohhh…could be an interesting top for my GP hulls…

          Ashley

          #128909
          Gareth Jones
          Participant
            @garethjones79649

            Hi Ashley,  An interesting boat to model, attractive, not so sure.

            Motorising was a bit of a conundrum, as you say lightships usually had no means of propulsion and Spurn was no exception.  I have considered towing it behind my 1:24 scale TID tug, releasing the tow and dropping the anchor but then picking up the tow again would be difficult. Not being able to sail it around the pond would be a bit boring. I have decided it will be motorised but the propeller will be removable and replaced by a plug in the hull to hide the space when the model is on static display.

            It will have a working light by a ring of flashing LEDs controlled, probably by an Arduino to get the right sequence if I can work out how to programme it.  It will probably be a flashing sequence with no attempt to get the rotating effect that would have been the case in real life but I have not finally decided on this yet.  There will be a working foghorn and mushroom anchor plus the usual lights.

            Overall the model should be about 53 inches long, 27 inches tall and weigh about 35 lb.

            Gareth

            #128914
            ashley needham
            Participant
              @ashleyneedham69188

              Gareth. Devils advocate.

              Would the on/ off abruptness of an led light give the right look?

              Ashley

              #128916
              Colin Bishop
              Moderator
                @colinbishop34627

                Maybe the arduino circuit could fix that. LEDs do have a brightness range relative to voltage input.

                Colin

                #128918
                Gareth Jones
                Participant
                  @garethjones79649

                  I think that some experimenting will be called for when I start on the light unit.

                  I have made a start on the construction of the model by cutting out all the hull frames.  I developed a method of marking out the shape when I did my Humber Sloop and have used the same method for Spurn.  The hull sections are shown below with the original drawing being 3/8 inch to a foot or 1:32 scale.  My model will be 1:24 scale.

                  Spurn sections

                  The drawing is scanned in two halves, either side of the centreline with a couple on inches overlap.  Each of these images is then flipped in the computer so I have a mirror image.  Each image is then printed with an appropriate magnification to give me a complete 1:24 size cross section at each hull station, but taking account the thickness of the hull.  There is a bit of trial and error involved here with several test prints but it worked out at about x1.28.  The two parts of the section at each hull station can then be taped together and cut round just outside the line for each frame.  They are then stuck on the 5 mm plywood I used for the frames with Spraymount adhesive.  There are a few sample frames below.

                  DSC04363A

                  The right hand image shows my first mistake, which I will explain in the next post.  The frames are cut out using my scroll saw and then trimmed to size using a disk sander

                   

                  #128919
                  Ray Wood 3
                  Participant
                    @raywood3

                    Hi Gareth,

                    Nice to see you back 🙂 glad you have decided to back to scale modelling of an interesting subject, take plenty of pictures, our editor Lindsey is always interested in articles on scratch building , even if it’s too big to be a free plan.

                    Kind Regards  Ray

                    #128922
                    Gareth Jones
                    Participant
                      @garethjones79649

                      The frames were all cut out and fixed onto battens which can then be fixed to the building board, initially just using spring clamps.  I could then plan which area of the frames to cut away to allow access and space for the 12 V lead acid battery, servos and other electrical parts.  I drilled three of the frames to take the prop shaft as its much easier to drill accurately through 3 frames clamped together rather than spaced 5 inches apart. The bottom of each frame was notched to take the keel which is made from 3 pieces of 2mm ply laminated together.  There are three sections of keel which are joined in a mortice and tenon fashion for strength and stiffness.  Once I was satisfied everything fitted together the frames were bolted to the building board which had the hull centreline marked on it.  In addition I used a laser level to shine along the keel to ensure everything was straight.

                      DSC04993DSC04995DSC04992DSC04999DSC05001

                      The model will also incorporate a carrying handle in the centre of the hull.  This can be removed or slid backwards for access underneath it to fit the battery.  I first did this on Shemarah, a 1:24 scale Scottish trawler I built some years ago which weighed about 65 lbs when complete.  I discussed this with Dave Milbourn at the Warwick Model Show at the time and he told me it was a daft idea as the bottom would fall out of the boat if I tried to pick it up.  I sent him a photo of me holding the model, ballasted with bricks temporarily and he reluctantly conceded it might work.  I have now used this approach on three fairly heavy models and it makes carrying them much easier, if no lighter.

                      In the fourth picture you can see the mistake I make in drawing the frames.  I did not make the extension above deck level high enough for the stem of the hull to clear the building board so I have had to cut a slot to accommodate it.

                      #128923
                      Richard Simpson
                      Moderator
                        @richardsimpson88330

                        Hi Gareth, good to see you back and good to see another traditional build in progress.  I’m looking forward to seeing how you tackle one or two aspects of this one, particularly stability, although at this size and weight it might not be the challenge that it might be if a smaller scale.

                        As regards the lights, just my own thoughts into the mix for you to consider.  If it was me I would not use LEDs on this one.  You might end up with an array of pin point light sources that look just that when lit.  Even using a diffuser might not help and the frosted lens would not look right.  I generally tend to look to recreating as closely as possible the reality so in this case I would go for a single centrally mounted lamp.  As LEDs are directional the lamp would best be an incandescent lamp of some sort.  The lamp would be mounted in the centre of a horizontal rotating disc and, on the edge of the disc, facing the lamp would be a reflector.  This is obviously pretty much the same arrangement as emergency lamps were before the advent of LEDs and much closer to how the original ship’s light would have worked.

                        Whatever you decide on I’m sure that you will do it justice.

                        #128924
                        ashley needham
                        Participant
                          @ashleyneedham69188

                          You can buy rotating reflector lights. Not looked into it but some are disco lights and can be battery powered. Likely too big for yours..but for a bit of a larf it would make a fun model….

                          Ashley

                          #128954
                          Richard Simpson
                          Moderator
                            @richardsimpson88330

                            The disco light is the same kind of arrangement.  I have seen it reproduced in miniature very successfully with a micro servo being used via  gearing to rotate the disc with the reflector mounted on it.

                            #129337
                            Gareth Jones
                            Participant
                              @garethjones79649

                              Progress on Spurn has been a bit slow as a result of a short holiday and the need to do a few outside jobs before winter arrives.  I also had a couple of nagging doubts about the model but thankfully I have now resolved these and begun to progress the build again.

                              My first concern was my original plan to skin the hull with a mix of plywood sheet on the flat sections and cedar planks on the curved areas, which had been quite successful on my Humber sloop.  However after some thought I decided the limited flat areas on Spurn did not justify the complication and the complete hull will be covered with 3 mm x 10 mm cedar planks.  I have some in stock from building a 6M class yacht which came out quite well, although the planks wont be on display on Spurn as they will be covered by dimpled styrene sheet to represent the riveted hull plating on the full sized vessel.  To give you an idea of the look on the yacht here is a photo taken part way through its build.  All the planks on the yacht are tapered and there are no ‘stealers’

                              DSC09487A

                              I have begun to layout the planks on the Spurn frames temporarily to get an idea of how they lay and twist and where they will need to be tapered.

                              DSC05275A

                              DSC05277A

                              The other aspect that was nagging me was fitting the motor and propeller, since the real Spurn never had one.  I have decided that instead of fitting an internal motor and conventional prop shaft and propeller, the complete propulsion unit will be mounted in a removable, torpedo shaped fairing attached to the keel.  The power supply wires will be taken into the hull through a tube, sealed into the bottom of the hull and open at the top about about 2 inches above the waterline.  Exactly how the ‘torpedo’ will be attached to the keel I have not yet decided but I will probably have to strengthen a couple of areas before the whole thing is planked over. Current thoughts are a couple of circular clamps around the torpedo tube which will need to be about 60 mm diameter to fit my available brushed motor inside.

                               

                              #129350
                              Richard Simpson
                              Moderator
                                @richardsimpson88330

                                That top hull is an absolute beauty Gareth.  You really can’t beat a varnished planked hull with every plank tapered and fitting perfectly.

                                #129366
                                Gareth Jones
                                Participant
                                  @garethjones79649

                                  Since you seem to like it Richard, here is a picture of the finished yacht, named Sirius, built to the John Lewis Petrel design from 1990.  I modified the keel and ballast weight to include a more modern ballast profile and the yacht has two alternative skeg and rudder arrangements to allow it to be sailed under radio control or vane steered.  Its 57 inches long and weighs about 27lb.

                                  DSC01218A

                                  #129382
                                  ashley needham
                                  Participant
                                    @ashleyneedham69188

                                    How about…

                                    Encase the motor…use two brass studs to go through the hull to fix the casing to it, and use the studs to pass the battery through??? No need for wires then. Wing nuts/ rubber washers inside. Battery feed on crimp-on eyes on the studs. Easily removable. No external bits to see when on display.

                                    Ashley

                                    #129396
                                    Gareth Jones
                                    Participant
                                      @garethjones79649

                                      Ashley, an excellent idea.  I had thought of a couple of bolts/studs as typically used for model yacht keels.  Using them individually as busbars for the motor’s power supply is a brilliant twist.  I might well use the idea in some form yet to be decided.

                                      Gareth

                                      #129403
                                      Richard Simpson
                                      Moderator
                                        @richardsimpson88330

                                        Gareth, many thanks for the picture, an absolutely beautiful hull.  My personal preferences for modelling are always scale models, usually weathered, however I still have a love of wood in all its various forms and your model shows that off perfectly.  Thanks for the picture.

                                        I do enjoy people’s creative thinking when it comes to modelling.  Ashley’s idea reminds me of one of my own solutions a few years ago.  I wanted a working mast head light but the lamp was an oil lamp, raised and lowered on two guide wires and a pulley.  The last thing I wanted was visible electrical wires anywhere so my solution was to make the two guide wires live.  They are connected internally through the base fittings to a battery and the lamp had to be arranged such that the positive and the negative remained insulated from each other while connecting them to a grain of wheat lamp.  Tricky and fiddly and, apart from soldering the guide wire to one of the eyelets I can’t even remember how I did it now, but so pleased it worked.

                                        14-03-12-06BenAinConstruction660

                                        04-11-11-17BenAinConstruction649

                                        18-01-24-27BenAinConstruction 731

                                        #129422
                                        Gareth Jones
                                        Participant
                                          @garethjones79649

                                          That looks a nice bit of weathering there Richard.  I always prefer to see weathered models myself and I remember a rather embarrassing moment at the CADMA show some years back.  After the demise of  Tom Gorman it was decided to ask one of the clubs to provide judges for that years show and Goole volunteered me and my wife as I had done the judging course at Haydock Park.  On the Kirklees stand was a beautiful small tug built by Alan Wyatt who you probably remember was a very skilled modeller and good friend to us. All his models were absolutely pristine and in the discussion with Elizabeth I commented that it was an excellent model but just too clean and tidy to represent a working boat.  Alan was not there at the time but his wife was, un-noticed to us, sitting behind the stand.  I looked up and saw her, obviously very annoyed by my remark.  She didn’t speak to us for the rest of the show but we did make it up eventually.

                                          #129423
                                          Gareth Jones
                                          Participant
                                            @garethjones79649

                                            I have started planking Spurn’s hull with 3 mm thick and 10 mm wide cedar planks.  I am using Gorilla white water resistant wood glue.  I pre-bend the front 12 inches or so and bend and twist the aft 12 inches or so of each plank.  Prior to bending I soak the end of the planks by holding them upright over the kitchen sink and trickling about a litre of near boiling water from the kettle down the plank.  I then quickly clamp the plank to a large saucepan to bend it or into two vices to twist it.

                                            DSC05292A

                                            DSC05294A

                                            When nearly dry the planks are glued in place and secured by an assortment of strong rubber bands and assorted clamps and bulldog clips.  Three done on each side so far, about another 50 or so to go in total.  The first plank on each side is at deck level and is located by a series of panel pins pushed into the frames and the plank edge butted up against them so that there is a fair sheer line along the hull.

                                            DSC05300A

                                            DSC05295A

                                            DSC05296A

                                             

                                            DSC05299A

                                            #129424
                                            Colin Bishop
                                            Moderator
                                              @colinbishop34627

                                              Whether to weather is a purely personal choice. Most vessels are in a pristine state when they leave the builders, even tugs and fishing boats. Many are actually kept in near pristine condition such as the small fishing boats you see in Greece.

                                              I always like to show my models at their best but I also admire models with carefully applied weathering as well, they are just not my thing though.

                                              Colin

                                              Elouanda (11)

                                              #129427
                                              Richard Simpson
                                              Moderator
                                                @richardsimpson88330

                                                I think of all the tasks that we can get involved with in the process of building our models weathering and adding detail are the two parts I enjoy the most.  Even brand new vessels straight out of a yard or those that have been meticulously looked after not only have those slight tell tale signs of use but, more importantly I use weathering techniques to make things look that little bit more realistic and sometimes just compensate for the effects of lighting or scale.

                                                As an example I have put together a very old kit of the QE2 this year and particularly decided to make it a pristine glass case model.  I did notice though when I painted the insides of the lifeboats that they looked quite bland and lacked definition.  To enhance the detail I simply added a very light spot of a brown wash inside each one.  The shadows were enhanced and the detail stood out that bit better.  Whether that would be considered as weathering I don’t know.  Whatever I build I always look for ways in which I can make it look closer to the real thing in any way I can think of.

                                                Old coasters of course had a hard life and so weathering plays a bigger part in such builds.  Then the challenge is to not overdo it and to try to aim for realism as much as possible.  Preferably by referring to suitable period pictures, wherever possible.

                                                These are some of the shots of Ben Ain that I was able to collect over the years:

                                                Ben Ain 1

                                                 

                                                BENAIN1924

                                                 

                                                Ben Ain2

                                                 

                                                download

                                                 

                                                And this was my attempt at getting somewhere close to it:

                                                05-05-24-01BenAinConstruction 826

                                                 

                                                05-05-24-05BenAinConstruction 830

                                                 

                                                05-05-24-13BenAinConstruction 838

                                                 

                                                 

                                                #129428
                                                Richard Simpson
                                                Moderator
                                                  @richardsimpson88330

                                                  Gareth, as you know Alan and Margaret were both stalwarts of the Kirklees club for many years.  Alan was a stunning model maker but, you are right, he always made pristine models, even scale ones.  Margaret was a formidable lady and held the committee together for as long as I can remember and further back.  Sadly Kirklees is seriously struggling nowadays and doesn’t attend away events nor do a great deal in the way of home events any more.  It will be interesting to see what next years calendar looks like.

                                                  I remember the Cadma shows well and meeting you there on a couple of occasions.  It was a good show and I really enjoyed it.

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