Returning modeller

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

It may not be in stock,. sometimes it needs to be mixed. Try and check first.

Colin

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hello Jim,

I realise this is not a boat ! but I'm just giving an old airframe some TLC for next year.

This is Humbrol no 18 Gloss which I always thought was pretty close and Humbrol have just started making the 50ml size again

This tin must be 30 years old and still good.

Spending proper money on brush's is always money well spent

Regards & Happy Christmas Ray

[James Hill 5Participant @jameshill5]

Hi Ray,

That certainly looks a good match. Better than some I`ve looked at.

If I can`t find any locally I`ll do it on line and also check the VW colour Colin suggested. I don`t expect a perfect match by any means but some of the orange shades I`ve seen don`t really come close.

In the meantime,

Best wishes to you and yours for a safe and Happy Christmas. and thankyou for all the advice you`ve given me through the year. It`s been much appreciated.

Jim.

[James Hill 5Participant @jameshill5]

I`ve decided to have a go at making a start on the handrails so thought I`d tackle the harder one first due to all the different bends required.

I`ve used 1.6mm brass wire which I tinned all over with solder ( previous experience showed it takes paint better )

I used a piece of dowel to bend the wire round to get the bends as a match the best I could. Hopefully the next rails should be easier as they`re mainly long lengths with a much bigger single bend at the bow end.

Best wishes to all for the New Year.

Regards,

Jim.

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

You've made a nice job of those Jim.

Something I've got to tackle for the first time with my builds. Still a little way off though.

Chris

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hello Jim,

Tinning the brass to get a silver finish is a great idea ! I wish I'd thought of it

Best Regards Ray

[James Hill 5Participant @jameshill5]

Hi Chris and Ray,

Thanks for the comment Chris. I have to say it wasn`t as difficult as I first thought it would be. I was originally going to try and make a jig but thought, while I`m making that I could be making the rails themselves. Once I`d made the first bend and it looked ok, making sure I had enough wire to do the complete top rail, it was a case of keeping going. I`ve been watching your progress with your boat, it`s coming along nicely.

The rectangular hatch in the picture is my access to the rudder posts. I `ve put four pins in for alignment . They go into four brass tubes glued under the deck. 1.6mm wire again with tube that it just slides in. If I need to get in there anytime, the cabin will lift off and I can push the hatch up from below.

Ray, Tinning the brass I`ve done a few times on some of the bits I`ve made for locos, eg , coupling rods etc. Once the solder is on, it needs careful rubbing down, just enough to smooth out any rough bits with the solder. I`ve always found it works quite well. seems to take paint ok. My wife always says the garage wants tidying up since I started having hobbies in there so I showed her the latest picture in your album of your workshop and said " now that`s a proper, well used workshop" The comment I got back was " Oh my lord, you men!!. There`s no hope for them I`m afraid.

Best wishes,

Jim.

[James Hill 5Participant @jameshill5]

Managed to get a bit more done on the handrails, ( not painted yet ). Used 1.6mm brass wire. The bends were made round various items ( piece of dowel for the smaller bends and the lid of a jar for the larger front ones.

The posts are pushed through holes, with a small nut soldered to the posts to get an even height. A similar attachment through the cabin sides. Just the triangular section at the bow and a few small side rails to make now.

The first of the two crew members has been started, with much major surgery on arms and legs to get the position right!

Regards,

Jim.

[Dave Cooper 6Participant @davecooper6]

Hi Jim – very nice work…

I know what you mean by crew surgery, one of my 1/43 scale gunners had to have an arm amputated to fit inside a gun turret. Once inside, the arm was re-united with the torso and the firing mechanism (shades of 'ship-in-a-bottle' stuff !).

Regards,

Dave

[James Hill 5Participant @jameshill5]

Hi Dave,

My two figures came from a shop in Edinburgh called Wonderland. I`d been looking for a while for suitable figures in charity shops etc but without any luck, then saw this one on their advert on line. Originally part of a Tamiya Fork Lift model someone decided to produce the driver as a seperate item in a kit form and as he was made in the sitting position, it suited me fine. All it needed was the required surgery.

Almost finished all the handrails now, and then it`s a case of fitting things inside the cabin and working out how the windows wil be attached.

Regards,

Jim.

[James Hill 5Participant @jameshill5]

Hi,

Just asking a question regarding giving the boat a bath trial before painting.

The hull has been covered with glass cloth but I`d like to try it in the water to see where the waterline settles ( and I could mark it ) but am not sure if this might affect the cloth surface at all. I`d hate to put it in the water and find it going above any line that I`ve marked from photo`s or spoiling a future painting surface.

My other question was,

What type of primer is the right one for enamel paint? The last ime I painted a boat hull, I used Woolworths household paint because I found the right colours!

Regards,

Jim.

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Hi Jim

Water based resins are described as being waterproof/water resistant but I've heard reports that if exposed to water for a long time they can soften and fail and is prudent therefore only to use them as a basis for paint.

But it is fine for carrying out a bath test as I've done with some of my models. I use Eze-Kote.

Chris

 

Edited By Chris Fellows on 27/01/2022 17:57:52

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hello Jim,

I was in a rush with my HMS Cossack a while back to find how much ballast was required to get her down to the scale waterline, so I wrapped the bare balsa hull in Clingfilm after I'd marked the waterline and tried her in the bath, 5 lbs of steel plate was required + all the gear and battery.

I think you used water based resin ?? It will take a few coats of Halfords red oxide primer to seal it and looks good below the waterline as anti fouling paint, It's also easier to draw on the waterline with a pencil for masking, I guess your topsides are black ?

Regards Ray

[James Hill 5Participant @jameshill5]

Hi Chris and Ray,

Thankyou for that information. I`ve got pictures of the bottom of the hull which I can work from but just thought dunking it in the water might be easier.

I must admit Ray, wrapping it in cling film never crossed my mind. The things you learn..

I can use the Oxide for below the waterline as that was the correct colour and above, to the deck is black. The deck is a sort of grey/greemn mix (not sure what you`d call it really ) and the cabin is orange.

I need to get myself some decent flat brushes at some point Hopefully by the time I get to the painting the weather will be a bit warmer.

They are two nice models in the pictures you posted. I hope I can reach a similar standard,

Regards,

Jim.

[James HowgegoParticipant @jameshowgego39404]

I used Wilko primer for or my starlet yacht- great at filling, dried quickly, and sanded easily! Cheap too.

[James Hill 5Participant @jameshill5]

Morning James,

Thankyou for your reply.

I have a Wilko not far from me so will look into that.

Many thanks,

Jim.

[James Hill 5Participant @jameshill5]

Managed to paint my crew members today and layout the equipment that goes at the front of the cabin All have to be glued in place.

Next is fitting the cabin floor ( hopefully making it removable ) and then paint the inside of the cabin.

Regards,

Jim.

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hello Jim,

That is very good detail for your internal fixtures and instruments, the crew are also looking good have you been following George's Colin Archer build with his cabin interior ? I think your giving him some competition.

Regards Ray

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Jim – is that Nigel Mansell on the left?

As Ray says you could give him some competition, especially if you use some soft loo paper!

Chris

[James Hill 5Participant @jameshill5]

Hi Ray and Chris,

Ray , I don`t think I can give anyone competition for my model making but I`ll try and find the item you mentioned.

Regarding the figures, I was just fortunate to find these two. Their scale is 1/14th so suited me very well. It`s good fun painting them as you can try all sorts of colours etc and with surgery, you can shape them to suit.

Chris, now you mention it, the left crew member does look a bit like Nigel Mansell. Purely accidental. I find trying to get the eyes looking something like they should the most difficult bit. Cocktail sticks are very handy.

I managed to make the cabin floor removable last night ( it`s in two pieces ). Holding it all in place was not as akward as I thought it might be. The only reason I wanted a removable floor was just in case anything in the cabin came loose at any time. I`ll need to make a few extra bits for the cabin interior as it`s quite a big space to leave empty.

Regards,

Jim.

[James Hill 5Participant @jameshill5]

Cabin interior painted, crew fitted in place and all the instruments fixed to the front shelf.

The floor now comes apart as two pieces so that will be handy when fitting the windows. I`ve done a bit of testing with different glues for the windows (which will go in last ) and it`s between super glue and bog standard U HOO. Both stick clear and don`t affect the glazing material.

Just a few more bits to make to fill the cabin a bit , and make the windscreen wipers,then I think the building is finished.

Jim.

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Jim,

That is fabulous work in the wheelhouse but a word of caution don't use superglue anywhere near your glazing as it tends to fog the acetate and finger prints are hard to get off !!

I would however recommend RC aeroplane canopy glue which I think is a PVA and dries clear

Formula 560 is what I use , but De-luxe also do a similar product .

Here's my 34" Huntsman 31

Regards Ray

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Yes, the interior looks really good.

Plus 1 on what Ray says about the canopy glue. I bought some especially for the glazing. I bought mine from Deluxe Materials – haven't done the glazing yet but have used it for gluing lots of other things. Good job as it's quite a big tube!

Chris

[James Hill 5Participant @jameshill5]

Hi Chris and Ray, thankyou for the info on the glazing glue.

The glue I tested was on Evergreen Plastiglaze and didn`t show any signs of fogging ( overnight ). Maybe it might have done in time.

From your experience, do the glues you`ve suggested have any movement time before the glue grabs? I ask because the front two windows will be the most akward ones to fit. I may try and paint the inside of the windows to try and hide the obvious. Depends how steady my hand is.. To make any sort of frame for them would be a bit too fiddly!

I will certainly be looking into your suggestions. Thanks again.

Regards,

Jim.

[James Hill 5Participant @jameshill5]

Sorry, forgot to ask,

Ray , is your Huntsman spray painted or brushed? Certainly a nice finish. If I get somewhere near that I`ll be pleased.

Jim.

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