Liverpool class Lifeboat, a Metcalf models kit.

[Richard SimpsonParticipant @richardsimpson88330]

Wow! Never realised you were sailing the event Neil, serves me right for making assumptions! All credit to you and the very best of luck. Now I can see why you want some strong masts.

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

yes Richard……. had always intended to do this trip when i built my original motor sailor a couple of years ago for our postponed 2020 sail, but a gent from Norfolk made me an offer on it that i just could not refuse………..so am having to build my Liverpool for the attempt.

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

Dave Stavros Jones collected my Liverpool class hull today, to work his magic with the paintwork..

And so I turned my attention to the main mast and tabernacle..

First job to mark off the tapering on the square section mast from the base to the top of the mast ..the base being the height of the tabernacle plus 15mm. I cut the taper on all 4 faces on the band saw.

Then it was just a job using my 60 year old palm plane set on fine cut to plane off the corners from 4 to 8, and from 8 to 16 corners, which by that time was showing almost a round mast trunk except for a few "flats". Finally with the blade set even finer, the shaft was rounded enough to sand down to an all round even finish

NEXT was to centre punch for the holes in the tabernacle and mast. Mast was mounted into the tabernacle to stop the brass bending when punched and all holes for mounting the mast into the tab, and holes in the base of the tab to screw to the deck were drilled..

next was to drill at the top for the rigging of the spar. in the last mast i did for a motor sailor i actually drilled the whole length of the slot so as to put in a bras sheave………this time i left the centre of the slot in place.

Finally, I needed a signalling lamp at the top of the main mast so unless I could find a nest of termites to eat out the centre of the mast like they do with a didgeridoo in double quick time I had to mount the wiring for the LED into a grove on the front of the mast. This was cut firstly using a mini circular saw cutting blade mounted into my 12v drill, then widening the grove using a scalpal knife and finally running up the grove to widen and deepen it slightly to fit the wiring with a 2mm drill bit…….all done!

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Neil,

Great work as always of somebody who knows the subject very well

Is your epic voyage based on the wind blowing in the right direction from behind ? as the stability of your lifeboat without a false keel is doubtful and it won't be able to tack or beat against the wind ?

Just a thought as you say the motors are only to get you out of trouble or home.

Regards Ray

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

she is almost as wide as her mast is tall, Ray..

the following pictures show one of my older lifeboats sailing that was purely sail powered, no motors at all.

she had two small drop keels that came out of the hull on the keelson, but these brass keels actually weighted less than the battery i had in the boat to operate the rudder servo, and she sailed well because of her wide beam and low down ballast……….absolutely no healing over…

hopefully the Liverpool with a 13" beam will sail similarly with inside ballast and no "skipping" across the water"

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

That model looks really nice Neil, I wasn't aware that there were sailing lifeboats of this type. A lovely design and beautifully made.

How bigf is it? The photos don't give much of a clue.

Colin

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

Posted by Colin Bishop on 11/02/2022 18:21:09:

That model looks really nice Neil, I wasn't aware that there were sailing lifeboats of this type. A lovely design and beautifully made.

How bigf is it? The photos don't give much of a clue.

Colin

She was Fleetwood's Lifeboat from 1896 until about 1930 when a motor sailor took over..

Her name was RNLB Maude Pickup, and was also equipped with a crew of 15, and 12 oars, six a side!

built her about 10 years ago i think.

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

it was a little longer than the Liverpool at 43",

Classed as a 43' Watson

Edited By neil howard-pritchard on 11/02/2022 18:44:46

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

thanks for the comments about the old sailing lifeboat Colin, it was something i really enjoyed building……..something totally different to normal models.

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

now that the hull has gone away for painting, i can concentrate and direct my time to the rest of the major parts that adorn the deck.

tonight, i took out the two sheets of cnc cut wooden fittings and started with cutting out all 17 bulwark bench suports, trimmed off the waste and sanded them smooth.

then it was a case of cutting out the aft grating grid, the semi circular 2 pieces of ply, to eventually seat the 4 cast white metle gratings, plus the forward grating containing a small piece of grating and two deck caps

and finally i cut out the ply for making the two aft bench seats plus the forward Port storage locker.

I glued these parts together using aliphatic resin glue, especially for timber and totally waterproof, and used the small interior blocks that were waste from the bench supports earlier as strengtheners on the inside of the ply boxes

fiddly but very satisfying working with timber, abrasive paper, a scalpal knife and real glue for a change, not plastic or epoxy,

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

Some more little bits and pieces put together and/or cut out ready for fitting to the boat when she comes home.

The whaleback lockers have been constructed from the cnc cut 1,5mm ply, the break water for the bow end box cut out of the same sheet and sanded ready for attaching to the bow once the boat is back,

And the parts for the fore and aft gratings glued together and the gratings dry fitted…….PLUS….

……..with all the sanding of the timber I have been able to collect a pot full of sanding/saw dust to mix with the aliphatic resin glue to fix the wiring in place into the grove that runs down the main mast before staining and sealing the mast from the elements.

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

Masts for my Liverpool next, and so I visited one of my favourite books, and for some reason have 2 copies, lol

Looked up the Liverpool class and there it was as remembered….a scale for the profile plans, including lengths of masts ,spar and boom……….

So cut these to length from 8mm ash doweling that i had in stock.

Both ends of the mainmast spar, the mizzen mast and boom at one end needed to be tapered, and so marked centre of each end to be tapered and then drilled first with a 1mm and then a 2mm dia x 4mm deep hole, to take the "live centre" in the tail stock of the lathe.

Mounting each length of dowel into the head stock and pinning up with the live centre in the tail stock, I turned the lathe on in reverse, so that the dowel was running away from me as I began sanding the taper with 40 grade, then 60 grade and then taking out of the clutches of the lathe to sand by hand.

The final sanding, to get rid of the circular scratching left by the abrasive paper cutting across the grain, was done length ways up and down the length of the mast, with 120 grade abrasive paper, leaving a nice smooth finish to the timber.

Tomorrow I shall be using the lathe again to turn, from brass the step for the mizzen mast, and other mast rings to fit each part of both masts, spar and boom……….

Might take a little longer than the 35 minutes it took me to taper the other pieces,

AND AT ALL TIMES……..safety first with a powerful lathe……roll up your sleeves and keep loose fitting clothes away from the head stock whilst in motion.

[Richard SimpsonParticipant @richardsimpson88330]

Nice and tidy and neat tapering. I don't think everyone appreciates that tapering a mast or spar takes a bit of practice to get right, particularly when the are specific diameter fittings to go along its length.

I actually use a battery powered mini lathe, mounted on a kitchen drawer front, for tapering masts so I can take it outside and keep the dust out there!

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

I'm just lazy, I have a lot of old artist brushes, many of which are quite long. Already tapered and often varnished ready for an appropriate top coat. You can buy cheap sets of new ones too.

Colin

[Richard SimpsonParticipant @richardsimpson88330]

Posted by Colin Bishop on 15/02/2022 12:14:15:

I'm just lazy, I have a lot of old artist brushes, many of which are quite long. Already tapered and often varnished ready for an appropriate top coat. You can buy cheap sets of new ones too.

Colin

Spot on idea Colin.

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

Posted by Richard Simpson on 15/02/2022 13:23:04:

Posted by Colin Bishop on 15/02/2022 12:14:15:

I'm just lazy, I have a lot of old artist brushes, many of which are quite long. Already tapered and often varnished ready for an appropriate top coat. You can buy cheap sets of new ones too.

Colin

Spot on idea Colin.

yes indeed, ………..I'd not thought of those.

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

Anyway……..was time to make the mast rings

Turned from solid brass bar the six Ferrell rings for the masts and spar/boom.

first, i drilled the bars with the matching diameter bits for the boom/spar and mast tops.

but the main ring for the lower part of the main mast needed the inside diameter cutting with a lathe tool as i didn't have a bit large enough, but all went well and all rings fit perfectly. they will be glued in place with epoxy, and then eyelets screwed through them into the masts………….

saves me farting around trying to silver solder them..

those are the end rings for the mizzen mast, boom and spar [ 4 in all ], as one still to be cut from the bar as above.

that's the main mast top ring, inside dia 9mm

above the brass bar with the inside diameter for the bottom of the mast cut

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

Spent most of today sheltering from Storm Dudley in the warmth of the home, until it was warm enough to go into the workshop and cast a set of 8 lifeboat crew figures for someone, and then cleaning up the flash and parceling up for postage tomorrow.

I then decided to make the windscreen surrounds from the cnc wooden parts……….in typical classic style……..I have lost the two side legs of the structure…..searched for 15 minutes before I sat and thought it would be quicker just to make 2 new sides from some timber left from the cnc cut surrounds, and therefore matching up timber which will be varnished..

So I made two templates from mounting card, and there they are sat on top of the whale back until the wind has died down and the rain has ceased, before Storm Unice comes knocking on the door on.Friday.

But a simple job done easily………And as a bonus I found a very nice photo of a Liverpool class lifeboat sporting the exact sail rig that I intend putting on my model…….this will be very helpful to me rigging mine correctly.

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

marked and drilled each contact point of the hand rails to be seated on both end boxes with a pilot 0.8mm drill bit in my my electric drill…….

………………and then finished off with a 1.2mm bit held in a finger chuck to locate the brass wire to secure into the tops.

 

 

i glued with 30minute epoxy as i have run out of odorless cyano.and had forgotten to order some off eBay.

 

 

And then made a cock up with the wind shield base! I had cut sanded and glued the 3 parts supplied in the kit with 5 minute epoxy and left them for a few hours.

 

 

However, for some reason be known only to the spirits the glue just didn't set, and as i pealed it off the parts to sand down i mucked up the veneer on the ply.

 

 

I made three new parts and on cutting, mucked those parts up as well, so in the end, resorted to good old plastic hips…

 

….

i'll leave it until tomorrow to do anything else and as i am on a dry spell am going to bed,disgruntled.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited By neil howard-pritchard on 18/02/2022 00:25:37

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

Planked the Whaleback on the Liverpool today……..NOT the quickest of tasks, but far quicker than steaming thin veneer planks and doing it that way as some like too.

However, it didn't go smoothly at all!!!?

Started this morning at around 10.30 and finished at 16.55…..well as far as I could go until I add varnish to it.

I started by not being able to find the printed wood simulated dolls house paper supplied in the kit that I had put aside so that it wouldn't get creased……….and as per type………I can't find it……

So I went on the hunt to see if I had any left from sheets I had bought over 10 years ago for my 3 classic lifeboat builds……no luck there either, but I did come across some sticky backed wood grained "plastic" for want of a better word. And so I cut it into a couple of A4 size sheets and threaded it through my shredder…….yes, a single way cut shredder [ not the one that cuts both length and cross length].

For the shredder I found when doing the 3 classics, was the easiest, quickest and best way of getting uniform straight planks, and at the correct width of 8mm/4" deck planks.
But here came a big problem, in that the sheet and planks were so old that the stickyness on the back of the planks, was very diminished, and I wondered if they would remain on the grp moulding.

As time and planks progressed and the whaleback began to get covered I thought of a way of stabilising them at the ends until all had been laid on the cockpit.

And so went into the workshop just after I had finished the cladding to find some low tack masking take whilst I applied varnish to the rest of the cabin, and whilst looking for some in my drawers I found the old paper wood print [kit supplied s still missing], and so rethought the problem and put paper banding around the Whaleback all around the bottom at deck level and up around the rear of the cockpit opening, and glued the lot with aliphatic resin……..has stuck well to the plasticised "paper".

I am going to test a scrap piece of the plastic paper to see if the print will stand up to cellulose sanding sealer tomorrow without loosing the printed pattern and if not will use some normal clear coat Ronseal varnish to stabilise the covering tomorrow

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

I suppose I had to get my assienda out of the chair when the snow melted away, and the brass fittings came from Hobbies of Norfolk that I had ordered on Thursday……..brilliant service as always.

I had ordered a brass turned mast base and a boom/mast crutch for the mizzen mast,

So I set to fitting and gluing beass tube ferralls to the masts ready for drilling for eyelets that I will make from 1.2mm brass wire tomorrow.

Once those are fitted I will find my mahogany woodel cleats that I made more off for the last sailing models and fit them too.

Then its just a job of buying some 3D printed rigging blocks and some brass working turn buckles so that I can produce the working rigging as and when I have finished the boat itself.

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

diverting from the masts and the boat for a few days,to make a late christmas present for my younger daughter, i have now got back to the boat, and given the whaleback it's second coat of Rustin's yacht varnish to cover and stabalise the planking who's stickiness wasn't as good as it should have been.

hopefully a couple more coats over the next few days will fix the problem.

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

Doesn't look any different, but the 3rd and 4th coats of yacht varnish have now gone on to the whale back, giving a good thick, stabalising coverage to the stick on planking coverage,

And hopefully after drying and curing hard for a few days I'll then be able work on it and fix the fittings to it.

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

Back to the Liverpool and tha whaleback tonight as I am now waiting for some 0.8mm [1;32 "] birch ply to arrive from ebay next week sometime.

And so it was time to "glaze" the port lights and then stick them into the pre cut holes. I cut away the imitation planking from the holes and then focussed on the port lights.

The lights were rather shiney even for a lifeboat and so placed them shiney side down onto the sticky side of some masking take, hoping that the tape would dull the paint, and then I poured into the inside of the lights some 5 minute 2 part zap epoxy to simulate the heavy glass that is put into the lights.

After the epoxy had set I took the lights off the tape, and the tape had given the required finish, a duller colour to the "brass"…magic!

Once fully set I took them and glued them into the holes, not forhetting the inside parts to the lights that are visible inside the cut away cabin rear end.

[neil hpParticipant @neilhp]

working mainly on the fittings for the boat that are brass, and so painted those that i could see, plus the wind screen base and frame, the hand rails and ball "stanchions", which are gluing at the mo, using cyano to glue them to the whaleback top.

also painted the gratings for the fore amd aft grating surrounds and the fore/aft end box tops

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