TEV Wahine 1/35 Build

[Richard H DunnParticipant @richardhdunn]

Hi

The transport will indeed be by trailer, although I am hoping to be able to lift the hull into the water.The local club has a crane in the clubhouse and a jetty as well as a ramp so well catered for.

We have 2000 square meters of clean water to sail in.

The weight and stability, I will be able to get the CG and CB etc in more or less the same place as I have all that data, although the hull is high it is still drawing 150mm of water and displacing 200 kgs.

You can scale hulls my the usual means of a calculator but I did mine a little more scientifically.

I took my full size 3d hull model of the ship which is accurate and scaled it down 35 times I then ran hydrostatics on it and also measured the volume of water it holds/displaces and the result was .19 ton.

It will be at least as stable as the original in minature and should have the same sea keeping attributes as the full size…that's the whole reason for this size!!, the model is effectively a tank test model finished to museum…I hope standard.

[matt smith 4Participant @mattsmith4]

looking good… richard

[mike farrellParticipant @mikefarrell21522]

Hi Richard Well my love in model boats is the cutting out of complicated shapes as Paul Thomason,s Thor . It is great to see how well you have cut out your design

A lot of design thought has gone into your project and too far out of my expertise.

Going to enjoy your build Michael

[Richard H DunnParticipant @richardhdunn]

Hi All

Last week I purchased a new combination thicknesser/ planer and today a mate and I put it through its paces and machined 120 8mm x 3.7 mm cedar planks.

I have not stacked them as yet as too tired but here you go.

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

What a luxury!

Money well spent!

Bob

[matt smith 4Participant @mattsmith4]

[Richard H DunnParticipant @richardhdunn]

Well it's been a slow couple of weeks with my job and being sick so not a lot done.

Here are some updates

The stern is almost framed up.

The next image shows the carefully placed girders that will have the A Bracket palms bolted to them for strength

Next is a pic of the finished Bow framing showing how the planks will fit into rabbet and the stem shaped later.

And what I am doing at the moment is frame up the topsides midships and getting that done, this part is just tacked on and will be removable for a while until gear is installed.

The beam can be seen…600mm it is.

Sorry it's blurry

And the fist topside panel clamped in place so I can check everything is aligned,the small spacers sitting on top of the bulkheads are the deck thickness to ensure sides are correct height.

Also planking being tested again for fairness.

And lastly showing how the first strake of planking will be guided by the lower edge of the topside panels.

This will require careful bevelling as it goes fore and aft as it forms the chine of the hull and is a crucial part of the ships look.

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Very impressive, Richard!

Noticed on one of your photos………." Bow Rudder "

Would you like to tell us more about this exciting feature, please?

Bob

[Richard H DunnParticipant @richardhdunn]

Thanks Bob

A lot of ships in that era had these bow rudders,they were not all that efficient and I have been told that Wahine never actually used hers.

The snippet here describes them better than I can this is from the 200 page hull specification book…very handy to have.

I have also attached a couple of photos of the bow rudder and the builders plan, note the quality of the scans here.

[Richard H DunnParticipant @richardhdunn]

I am in the process of designing the prop shafts for this now, I have an idea for the thrust bearing.

I was thinking of a heavy SS stop with an allan key grub screw locked onto the shaft just aft of the coupling. Either side of that a couple of ball bearings or bronze bushes(pink) housed in a U channel.

Here is a quick 5 min mock up to express the idea, what do you think???

Also does anyone think car radiator motors will work for this as the main motors?

I will have to water cool them using the old aluminium coil trick with water pumped through it.

Speaking of which…pumps, what are good pumps to use for things like water cooling or pumping out tanks as opposed to pumps to simulate discharges? I need both, room is not an issue.

Edited By Richard Dunn 3 on 28/09/2015 23:00:16

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Richard

I would think that 24v truck fan motors would do the job but you should consider gear or belt drives to reduce the speed and increase the torque. There are models out there with 4" props but I doubt that many of them weight 200kg. An alternative would be very low kv brushless motors; some of these can produce several BHP.

I'm sure some clever Forum member has the knowledge to calculate the optimum RPM and torque for a scale prop (Paul?). Simon at Prop Shop is pretty good at advising motor sizes for his props. I'm afraid that I can't help you much further – my models tend to be about 500-600cm long and weigh maybe 1kg!

Dave M

[Richard H DunnParticipant @richardhdunn]

Thanks Dave
I might ask Simon as he has the deposit now and is all committed.

I have a bit of room so that is not a real issue engine compartment is fore and aft 200mm and the same high with another compartment aft of this for gears and thrust bearing.

I think I am committed to in line motors now as I have not got height for offset drives so need a variable speed motor, I am also leaning toward heavy duty battery power drill motors, but I confess to be in the dark on this.

I wanted to share a couple of really nice photos of her that really show the beauty of this ship.

Note how the side thrust units have sliding doors as well as grills over them.

[Richard H DunnParticipant @richardhdunn]

I started framing the forward end today, Not actually taking long

I set up the bulkheads and connected them with a girder again and then installed the webs in between to keep it all straight.

Now just the frames to cut and attach to the lower frames and girder.

Bow unit is going to be a bit more complex as I have to build in the anchor recesses as well as make allowance for chain locker(just in case) and bow rudder gear.

Also guys I heard back from Simon Higgins today about motors, the good news is they are not too dear and they fit, the bad news is I have to get them from the US and ship them over..it seems we in Australia do not have a market for electric scooters…that's right Scooters!

Here are the specs and what I plan to buy.

Model: XYD-6B Motor
Type: Brush
Voltage: 24 volt DC
Rated Speed: 2600 RPM
Rated Current: 28 amp
Output: 750 watts
Rotation: Reversible
Sprocket: 11 tooth #25 chain sprocket
Case Length: 3-3/4" (95 mm)
Case Diameter: 3-15/16" (100 mm)
Drive Shaft Length: 1/2" (13 mm)
Drive Shaft Diameter: 3/8" (10 mm)
Mounting Hole Distance: 3-15/16" (100 mm)

 

Edited By Richard Dunn 3 on 01/10/2015 08:08:36

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Very impressive Richard

Looking at the photos of the real ship………How will you create the Bow curves?

Very tricky, Dickie!

Bob

[Richard H DunnParticipant @richardhdunn]

Just a denser array of frames and horizontal webs to define the round of the stem, the same as the lower half really and a solid nose to carve later.

[Gareth JonesParticipant @garethjones79649]

Hi Richard,

I have only just noticed your reference to Shemarah in the first post of this thread. I am delighted to find I have inspired you to start such an impressive model and I am very impressed with the professionalism, neatness, accuracy and attention to detail in your build. The illustrations posted in your thread are also very clear and give a good impression of the complexity and scale of the project.

I look forward to following it over the coming months, or maybe years. How long do you think it will take you to finish?

Best regards

Gareth

[Richard H DunnParticipant @richardhdunn]

Thanks Gareth

Time… no idea but I will have the hull on the water under power by March and I hope to have the hull itself planked and glassed in 4-5 weeks.

I am fortunate to have a job that enables me to work on this all day as my career job is 4.00 until 10.00 at night, and from home.

 

 

Edited By Richard Dunn 3 on 04/10/2015 08:54:00

[Richard H DunnParticipant @richardhdunn]

Hi everyone

Well it's been a rubbish 2 weeks and have been busy with all sorts of things not related to this model.

I have nearly completed the framing now.

Just the anchor recess some more partial frames and wooden stem and bow is done.

I put this in as its interesting to note the similar structure as I based my model off the actual framing of the ship
The same area of the ship below on other side.

 

Stern almost framed, steering gear flat can be seen.

This is the base for the Stbd Moooring deck, as seen below.

Looking at stern, the 3rd space forward of the transom is where the steering gear will be under a hatch, the sides will house the rudder shafts.

The whole area accessed via the stern door when open , I opted for this so I don't have to have ugly hatches in deck.

The rudder shafts are fixed to the forward side of the 3rd frame in here, on the vertical web.

So far hull is now framed more or less up to here.

 

Edited By Richard Dunn 3 on 18/10/2015 09:02:48

[Richard H DunnParticipant @richardhdunn]

Today I got as much done as I have in the past 2 weeks as I started to assemble the Port side Midships and aft.

Since the parts were cut and already fitted it went smoothly, I have also added a proper string line to identify any errors, luckily there are none of any consequence,

The hull on the Stbd side has been hard block sanded with a large hard sanding board to flat out and flush up the frames and correct any bevel errors, it is now ready to glue on the skin, I have struggled all day with the temptation to do the Stbd side but am trying to resist so both sides get done together.

I have purchased my 4 Liter kit of West system epoxy laminating resin for the hull and once I get the Port Bow framing glued in I will be ready to glue the topside panels on, that will only take a day, and then it is time to fit and glue the first 6-8 sheer planks under the knuckle after which I can release her hull from the board and turn her over and complete planking

The vast area of her deck can now be seen .

I have also started cutting the longitudinal topside member that will become the main basis for the superstructure,, no photos yet but …its a big model!!! with that on.

[matt smith 4Participant @mattsmith4]

wow richard great progress..

[Richard H DunnParticipant @richardhdunn]

Checking the models alignment with a laser.

Framing almost complete today!.

[Richard H DunnParticipant @richardhdunn]

Hi all
Today I started to fit the topside covering and get it ready for permanent fixing.

The very bow of this ply will need to be boiled or grooved to get it to conform to the flare of the bow from about where the 3 screws in one frame are.

Inside you can see how much it needs to be shaped.

Edited By Richard Dunn 3 on 09/11/2015 06:00:19

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

That looks a challenge, Richard!

Since the formers are so precise, why not plank the lot?

Bob

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

The old Fairey powerboat hulls were made of ply shaped like this under great temperature and pressure. Having tried it with the original Huntsman 31 47" model I concluded that no amount of boiling or steaming will produce a compound curve in marine ply (even at 1.6mm thick) without a mould. I think that cutting horizontal grooves in the ply (i.e. turning the front part into planks) would greatly ease the pain. These will tend to splay apart very slightly nearer to the bow. Your wood working skills are second to none so the insertion of a few steelers would be the elegant solution. However I don't suppose you'd be too embarrassed to consider a modest amount of filler between the "planks"!

I think that planking the whole hull would be an act of either unimaginable dedication or total insanity. Life's too short..

Dave M

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

I would suggest that 25mm wide planks would be a good starting point?

Bob

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