Programming a Shark ESC

[cheddar24manParticipant @cheddar24man]

An old man seeks help please.

I have bought a Shark 40A water cooled ESC for my MTB build as I understand one can reverse the motor with it but how?

I have tried to understand the supplied “manual” but have not answered my question.

Can this be programmed so that with a flick of a switch on my transmitter I can reverse the motor please?

All help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

[Charles OatesParticipant @charlesoates31738]

There are some helpful video instructions on youtube that should guide you through the setup. Im not sure why you say flick a switch to reverse though. Normal operation is with the throttle stick in the middle for stop, up for forward, and back, or down for reverse.

Let us know how you get on.

 

[cheddar24manParticipant @cheddar24man]

Ah, thanks Charles. I read somewhere that one could use a switch to change direction.

I’m off to YouTube…………….

Oh dear!! Just watched a couple of videos and they’re talking about a “programming card”? That’s another £20!!! This is turning into a very expensive hobby!! 😩

Anybody want a Shark 40A ESC, I think it’ll become a static model!! My pension just can’t support all these “extras”!!

The description for the 40A says “reversible ESC”. It doesn’t say you need another expensive piece of kit to make it reverse!!

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Ched,

Don’t worry about a programming card they are not required for a boat, more used for aeroplanes.

Just plug it all in , don’t overthink it !!

I will probably be shot down for this comment but that’s my experience 🙂

Good Luck

Ray

[Charles OatesParticipant @charlesoates31738]

Hi again, you dont have to have a program card to set it up. Although i dont have one of these, I’ve looked at the setup instructions online and they seem straight forward. Have you tried following the instructions, and perhaps found them confusing, if so im sure we can help. I suspect you had a look at youtube and perhaps saw one video and were put off, ill have a look and find a good one and post a link for you. Don’t give up, these things are simple once you’ve done them but can seem daunting the first time.

[Charles OatesParticipant @charlesoates31738]

Ray is quite right, just plug it all in and try it. Remember, transmitter on first, sticks and trims in the centre then power up the receiver with everything connected. Wait a few seconds, then push the throttle stick up and down.

[cheddar24manParticipant @cheddar24man]

Many thanks guys. Ah, Charles, you say sticks in the middle but the instructions say throttle up to 100% to start with.

I’m sure I’ll sort it with your kind help. I’ll connect it all cup this afternoon, with prop shaft uncoupled, and have a play……

Yes, throttle in the middle then up for forward and down for reverse would be good!!

[cheddar24manParticipant @cheddar24man]

YES! Had a play and have got the motor running forwards and backwards with the L/H stick, centered = OFF.

BUT, the motor takes off like a bullet with the slightest stick movement?

I tried to set the start up acceleration on the SHARK to Very Soft but not sure I managed that so I then set the throttle curve in the transmitter to very gentle but then the motor wouldn’t run at all, just made loud beeps at me!

Think I must try the ESC Very Soft again  but get confused with all the beeps🤣🤣

[cheddar24manParticipant @cheddar24man]

Of course the above scenario is off load, sitting on the bench. I will no doubt be considerably slower once loaded!

[cheddar24manParticipant @cheddar24man]

My radio is the FlySky FS-i6. I’m wondering why, when I change the Throttle Curve to try to reduce the start up acceleration, the motor won’t start at all, it just beeps at me? When put the curve to factory set, all is good.

Factory settings Low 0% – 1 25% – 2 50% = 3 75% and H 100%. All I did was to reduce 1 down to 10% and 2 down to 20% to try to slow down motor acceleration but as I said, the motor won’t run at all with these settings.

Maybe reducing the End Points of the channel would be a better option? I’ll give it a go tomorrow!

Of course, brushless motors don’t like slow running do they. I remember the one in my plane jumps round at very slow speeds.

 

 

 

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Changing things can lead to unexpected results sometimes. I use a Hitec transmitter and with my model with a stern-drive I needed to reduce the power significantly in reverse but when I did it affected the power when going forwards but not in the same way and I had to use the original settings again – I just have to be careful when using reverse.

Yes, brushless motors are primarily designed to run at higher speeds and often at a fixed rpm. but with the right ESC’s they will run smoothly at low speed. I use a brushless with a HobbyWing Quicrun ESC in my Fairey River Cruiser and that will pull away very slowly and smoothly.

As you say once in the water will help.

Chris

[cheddar24manParticipant @cheddar24man]

Yes, think I’ll leave things for now.

Where dod you place the water scoop? I have a central rudder, just behind the propeller or should I move the rudder back a bit and put the scoop right behind the prop?

Thanks everybody, you can tell I’m a novice🤓

[Dave ReedParticipant @davereed72029]

Hi Ched,

Don’t forget the FS-i6 is primarily intended for aircraft, so messing with throttle curves will assume that ‘off’ is fully down on the stick and ‘full’ is fully up (no reverse). I have the FS-i6x and had similar results. End points are the way to go IF you find the boat is too fast on the water.

By the way, a centre return spring kit is available for the throttle (£4 at Howes models), very handy for boats

By the way, I also use Shark ESC’s without a programming card. I’ve not found it necessary to change settings very often, just make sure that battery type / cutoff voltage is correct for your battery

Dave

[cheddar24manParticipant @cheddar24man]

Thanks for that Dave, I’ll have a look!

[cheddar24manParticipant @cheddar24man]

So I gather the ESC gets pretty hot necessitating cooling.

Where’s the best location for the water scoop, immediately behind the propeller or off to the side?

Behind the prop seems logical as it would start taking in water as soon as the prop starts whereas off to the side the boat would have to pick up speed to be effective???

Cheers

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

If the ESC and motor are correctly sized and the model is not over-propped then you don’t need water-cooling of either. None of my Faireys have it fitted and they just get warm. My water-jet build will have it because it comes with a high revving inrunner brushless motor and a water jacket so it makes sense to use it. Some of my plastic race boats came with it fitted but they have to endure longish periods at fast speeds whereas other models usually run at varied and lower speeds.

It doesn’t hurt to install water cooling, but as I said, often it’s not required.

 

[cheddar24manParticipant @cheddar24man]

Thanks Chris. I’ll leave it out for now, can always retrofit if needed!

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