Deluxe Superphatic Glue.

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

Quite a lot of us use the very handy Superphatic glue from Deluxe Materials. A boat modeller on the  Model Engineer forum accidentally stuck a rubbing strip in the wrong place on his painted hull and needed to remove it without disturbing the paint finish. It appears that the best method is to use methylated spirits.

Aliphatic glue removal/separation

Whether that would work on a direct wood to wood joint I don’t know. Worth keeping in mind though.

Colin

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Useful to know that it sticks to painted surfaces as I’ve always only used it for wood to wood joints. Also that it works for wood to Plasticard as I’ve got some strakes that need refixing.

I thought that I might need to resort to Cyano again for some joints but so far not had to, including fixing the rubbing strips to Faun. Not as instant and I had a problem with the rubbing strip moving but as it was only a short length I cut it off and spliced a new section in.

Chris

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

It seems to be very thin pva type with a bit of contact adhesive in the mix which shows up as brownish tint.

Colin

[Richard SimpsonParticipant @richardsimpson88330]

I’ve tended to think of it as a thinned PVA with some additives.  I actually frequently water down PVA anyway to assist it soaking into wood and improving its capillary action.

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

I am trying out the Deluxe Photo Etch at the moment on the davits for my liner which I have neglected for a while. It looks like Superphatic, maybe even thinner. A couple of test pieces some time back indicated that it does work. Don’t quite know how and wonder how it would resist mechanical pressure but it is only intended to hold to hold photo etch components together or attach photo etch to plastic or other materials. My davits won’t be stressed unless I accidentally knock them so it may be OK. A davit frame with arms on each side has 8 components and is 25mm high. Very fiddly! The arms are the photo etch I had made along with the railings. I will put details on my liner topic in due course.

Photo Etch Glue 25g

Colin

[Richard SimpsonParticipant @richardsimpson88330]

Less chance of sticking your fingers to the davits!

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

Absolutely Richard, using cyano would have been a nightmare for me. We are very lucky these days in the great choice of adhesives especially the acrylic water cleanup types. They are not suitable for all applications but when they are they are much nicer to use than the traditional ‘sticky’ types and cyano. As always, it is horses for courses. You can clad a hull with lightweight glass cloth and then have a choice of epoxy finishing resin or Deluxe Eze Kote. Both are are good. The epoxy is messier to apply and harder to rub down but gives a very tough finish. The Eze Kote is more pleasant to use and rub down and give a less tough finish but still very acceptable for a painted scale model which is unlikely to be bashed about. It is important to have the choice.

Some of my models use Eze Kote to moisten gummed paper strip for simulating plating very effectively. An extra coat over the top gives a very good finish.

Even so, it is maybe not quite as good as using Shellac as a sealer which gives a great finish on Gumstrip. As such it is entirely organic so is either good  because of that or harmful to the beetles used to make it! Take your pick – nothing is simple!

Colin

 

[Alasdair AllanParticipant @alasdairallan37423]

On the general glue theme, I am definitely trying to cut back on superglue (if that does not sound too odd). The fumes do not make me feel too great if the bottle is open for more than a wee while at a time.  Am using a better ventilated space now, which improves matters, but I think the lesson is that superglue is a fairly noxious substance. Am a convert to superphatic for at least some jobs.

[Richard SimpsonParticipant @richardsimpson88330]

Once real concern I came across a couple of years ago was when I didn’t realise how cyano behaves in a very absorbent material.  If you apply a quantity of a thin cyano to something like a piece of tissue, cotton cloth or, in my case, a piece of thick string the cyano suddenly gives of a significant volume of very toxic fumes in the form of a white vapour.

I made the mistake of using a thick string as a rubbing fender on an African Queen model and soaking it with cyano after it was held in place.  The fumes it gave off caught me in my left eye and it still occasionally feels a little dry and uncomfortable even now, two years afterwards.

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Yes, I’ve not used cyano for a couple of years or so now. I had a close one when gluing some thin strips to a deck and too much glue ran out. The amount of heat generated was worrying as I was in the house.

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

A lot of glues can provoke a health reaction. Cyano is a common one although the odourless version is less potent. Liquid poly is another one which gives off fumes when the bottle is open and can spark a reaction. Some people find that exposure to epoxy resin on the hands can cause problems although I am OK with it.

Also, using rattle spray paint cans in confined areas can cause temporary respiratory effects.

So far I find the PVA/Aliphatic and acrylic adhesives with water clean up do not give a reaction although they are not suitable for all applications.

Colin

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

If I do have to use cyano for anything in the future I’m going to do it outside now.

Chris

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