Boat beginner Aeronaut Victoria help please

[floatmeboat2025Participant @floatmeboat2025]

Hello everyone,

I have built model aircraft from kits and am now looking to try a boat. As with anything worth doing there is a lot of new things to learn!

I would like to build an Aeronaut Victoria (700mm length,203mm beam, approx 1.5kg) which is meant to be good for beginners.

I am wondering if the suggested race 650 brushed motor is enough for scale speeds with some extra for short periods of fun speed? The recommended prop is a 2 blade 35mm.

Do I need to upgrade the shaft and coupling in the kit?

I am unsure of the best method to finish the model. I need to keep smells to a minimum apart from a short time outside spraying and so I plan to use Delux Materials ‘Sand n seal’ to seal the inside and outside of the hull then a couple of coats of Ronseal Ultra tough hardglaze interior varnish which I remember reading somewhere here is good for model boats. Below the waterline I plan to spray car primer and then use a rattle can colour, possibly enamel. On top will be the Ronseal again.

Is the above a good method to use?

I also have some Eze Kote on the shelf if it would be a better option?

Thanks folks.

 

 

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

You could use either Sand and Seal or Eze Kote inside the boat. The Eze Kote is a resin which will give better waterproofing and protection.

On the exterior you will need Sand & Seal to allow the above water woodwork colour and grain to show through.

As far as external painting is concerned, the Ronseal will be OK for the varnished above waterline wood finish but it would not be advisable to spray car paint over it for the underwater hull.

You can mask off the above waterline hull and use the car spray over the Sand and Seal and then put Ronseal over that though. (but not car spray over Ronseal).

According to the bottle, Sand and Seal will accept just about any type of paint so you could use enamel for the underwater hull if you wanted.

The above will work, but others on here may have equally valid suggestions.

One thing we all agree on is that before applying finishes to the boat, make up a test piece from surplus wood to check that it will  work out OK and look the way you want it. There is nothing so discouraging as having to strip back bubbly paintwork because of incompatible finishes.

I see the Victoria has white waterline strip. Something like this can be difficult to mask off and paint neatly and a good alternative is to use Trimline Self Adhesive Vinyl tape which is waterproof. It is widely available, for example:

https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/trimline.html

There are a lot of glazed windows on the model. Use Canopy Glue to attach the glazing, never, ever, superglue which will fog it.

There is a feature article on building Aeronaut boats including Victoria on here which you may have seen and mentions the propshaft etc. Also note the comments about not getting glue on the surfaces you want to varnish. I would use Deluxe SuperPhatic or Aliphatic which allow any excess to be wiped away with a damp cloth before it dries.

Andy goes Aeronaut!

Colin

 

 

 

[floatmeboat2025Participant @floatmeboat2025]

Hi Colin,

Thanks for taking the time to reply in detail.  I think I have a better idea of the finishing method now.

I remembered reading somewhere that the prop shaft and coupling should be changed. I will order replacements. I have several 3s lipos and so will probably go that route.

That trim line is a good tip!

 

[harry smith 1Participant @harrysmith1]

Hello Floaty

If you have 3S Lipo batteries already a 35mm 1100kv brushless motor with a 60 amp ESC (with reverse) and  a 35/40mm 2/3 blade prop.

Upgrade to 4mm prop shaft.

Lovely model you have picked to build.

Harry

[harry smith 1]

On harry smith 1 Said:

Hello Floaty

If you have 3S Lipo batteries already a 35mm 1100kv brushless motor with a 60 amp ESC (with reverse) and  a 35/40mm 2/3 blade prop.

Upgrade to 4mm prop shaft.

Lovely model you have picked to build.

Harry

Hi Harry,

Thanks for your reply and the very useful suggestion.

I did a search and found this motor at Slec:

D3536/08 1050 KV Tornado Thumper V3 – Brushless Motor

I can pick up a shaft,tube and prop at the same time.

Regarding the esc; would I have to water cool the esc? I would prefer not to if possible. I am thinking about the Slec suggested ZTW Seal 60 amp.

Many thanks

 

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Hi Floaty

Like Harry I was going to suggest a brushless motor and the one you have chosen should be ideal.

I use mainly Overlander Thumper motors and find them very good. My go to for ESC is HobbyWing Quicrun and they give smooth performance. I recommend getting the program card as well. I use Wheelspin Models for mine.

Like you I prefer not to water-cool (apart from my plastic race boats) and if the motor and prop etc. are sized correctly, which as suggested are, and the prop shaft and coupling aren’t binding then you don’t need to.

Chris

[Chris Fellows]

On Chris Fellows Said:

Hi Floaty

Like Harry I was going to suggest a brushless motor and the one you have chosen should be ideal.

I use mainly Overlander Thumper motors and find them very good. My go to for ESC is HobbyWing Quicrun and they give smooth performance. I recommend getting the program card as well. I use Wheelspin Models for mine.

Like you I prefer not to water-cool (apart from my plastic race boats) and if the motor and prop etc. are sized correctly, which as suggested are, and the prop shaft and coupling aren’t binding then you don’t need to.

Chris

Hi Chris,

Thanks for the info and suggestion.

Good news that I do not need to water cool. I will check out the HobbyWing Quicrun esc.

Thanks to all your replies, I feel things have come together now and I’m looking forward to getting building.

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