TEV Wahine 1/35 Build

[Richard H DunnParticipant @richardhdunn]

Hi All

Here is a short video on the rudders being assembled, no shaping has been done yet until the alignment is finished.

 

Edited By Richard Dunn 3 on 02/09/2016 03:01:02

[Richard H DunnParticipant @richardhdunn]

Hi All

Just a wee update.

I had to scrap all of the printed bearing parts and order proper bearings from all over the world a month ago and am just about ready to finally install the shafts and motors for real.

The bearings were heating up enough to soften the plastic and cause the bearings to spin.

No resistance now though, I can spin the shaft and it keeps turning under it's own momentum so should cut down the drain on batteries

Images soon

Edited By Richard Dunn 3 on 01/10/2016 07:15:34

[Richard H DunnParticipant @richardhdunn]

Here are some images of the first shaft installed with an A bracket and Rudder.

This has taken ages as I had to wait weeks for the bearings to arrive and having to wait 24 hours every time I epoxy a part so as not to disturb alignment.

Props spin freely for about 4 turns on their own.

Motor room BHD bearing that locks on to shaft.

Below, Thrust bearing mounted on stool, also locks onto shaft.

Inside face of shaft bossing showing one of the ball bearings, not easy to see though

The fitted Prop and rope guard between the prop and A bracket. bracket is shaped and epoxied on ready to fit bolts.

Once the hull plating gets bonded on the result should look a lot tidier.

Below is the upper bow rudder bearing

This shot shows the rudder surround and bushes installed in the rudder, the protruding threads are where the rudder shaft and lower pintle bolt on, The upper one is removed by undoing nut and pulling the shaft up and the lower one is removed by undoing nut and letting the pin drop out the bottom, just like the real thing

The rectangular holes will be lined in Styrene and only open to the port side as per plans.

A view of the upper bushing if you look inside the recess it can be seen, it was knurled on lathe and bonded into rudder so it can't come loose.

The laminated curved back plate of the rudder recess can be seen.

Now the bow and forefoot can be shaped to final lines of bulbous bow.

Rudder is currently sitting too low as I have a thick brass washer wedged in the top gap to centre the upper shaft while upper bushing was bonded in place, clearance of 1mm all around will be the final gap

The upper recess can be seen here in this poor image.

Edited By Richard Dunn 3 on 11/10/2016 00:44:46

Edited By Richard Dunn 3 on 11/10/2016 00:46:30

Also the Rudder assembly bonded and glassed in.

Edited By Richard Dunn 3 on 11/10/2016 00:53:31

[Simon PriceParticipant @simonprice32277]

How's it all coming along, Richard?

[Richard H DunnParticipant @richardhdunn]

Hi Everyone

Its going well, been a few other things to do around the house last few weeks like making a new front door and some finishing off landscaping etc

But I did finally join the model boat club today.

Should be doing trials in a few weeks.

[Richard H DunnParticipant @richardhdunn]

Gareth J if you are watching this I have a question.

When you were gluing your styrene plates on did you find that you have to scratch up the back with a heavy grade paper like 60 or 40 grit as opposed to just 80?

And did you use cement on the laps ?

I am about to start plating and have done some experiments with glue, epoxy worked well on styrene that was scratched up with 80, but could still pull it off but my arm was shaking under the strain?
I am going to try Polyurethane later today as well as it claims to glue plastic to wood, used it heaps in joinery but not the Titebond brand I am about to try.

My process will be

Mark out plates on hull and cut plates to shape (heat if needed)

Mark any structure onto the plates and scribe with a wooden edge the back on those lines to give the effect of the buckling.

Glue to hull with epoxy or polyurethane) both gap filling of course

Then glue .5mm Styrene rod into the seams to form weld beads.

Portholes and any other openings will be done prior to bonding to hull

Edited By Richard Dunn 3 on 21/11/2016 03:35:12

[Gareth JonesParticipant @garethjones79649]

Hi Richard,

I am glad to see the build is still progressing, you seem to be making faster progress than I am with Spider J.

I roughed up the back of the styrene sheets with 80 grade abrasive paper and fixed them on with slow setting epoxy (Araldite Precision), all over the surface including any overlaps. They were then taped and/or weighted down overnight while it dried. I did have some problems with voids and bubbles in some areas, particularly where there was a double curvature. The bubbles showed up particularly well when the model was out in the sun just prior to painting. My only option was to cut them out and fill them. In most cases you would not know they were there now and the model will represent a working sloop so a bit of surface imperfection here and there is quite normal.

Keep up the good work, it will be a very impressive model when its finished.

Gareth

[Richard H DunnParticipant @richardhdunn]

Thanks Gareth

I have tried a test of both to see which is better, CA would be good to but I hear it get's brittle and well. also too expensive for something this size.

[Richard H DunnParticipant @richardhdunn]

Thanks Gareth

I have tried a test of both to see which is better, CA would be good to but I hear it get's brittle and well. also too expensive for something this size.

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Richard

If you are still searching for a suitable plating material….

Consider thick card about 0.025" thick……..Using PVA………..In goes round gentle curves ok

Using a blunt centre punch to simulate the rivets

Bob

[Richard H DunnParticipant @richardhdunn]

Thanks Bob

Already bought 50 1400mm x 1400 mm sheets of .5 mm styrene

[John W EParticipant @johnwe]

hi there Richard

Good few year ago, I built a model of the Moray Forth a Coastal Cargo ship, although, only small compared to the one you are building – I assimilated the plating on the hull exterior, the same way you are planning on doing – I used 0.5 thick Plasticard – I used the thick variety of Superglue from GRIP – much later, when I have completed my model of HMS Exeter, which is roughly 70 inches long – and I followed the same procedure. For tight curves and places like that, I preformed the Plasticard around a variety of different diameter round steel tubes – and I warmed the Plasticard in hot water. So far, touch wood, I have completed 4-5 models using the same method and the plates haven't detached from the hull. Using a thick grade Superglue allows you to move the plates around. I also used a small wallpaper roller; the type you use to roll the seams on wallpaper – to roll the Plasticard to ensure there were no air bubbles underneath it.

If you want to include rivet detailing as well – the method I used was an old brass cog well from an alarm clock – mounted on a handle to allow the cog to rotate. With this and the aid of a steel ruler; I could do rows of rivets on the edge of the plates.

John

[Richard H DunnParticipant @richardhdunn]

Thanks John.

I have only just realized that what you call Plasticard is in fact styrene, they are the same thing, it threw me as Card implies it's a cardboard not a plastic which styrene is as its made from solidified gas.

Anyhow i have tried bonding with Poyurethane glue and epoxy and the epoxy wins hands down , the Cyano acrylate or CA is the better option yes but in all honesty I cant afford to spend potentially $ 1000 on glue.

I already have 8 litres of high strength 24 hour epoxy (techniglue, the industry standard in Australia) which is more than enough.

Any how I will be doing rivets yes but there is only one seam in the hull where the hull joins the superstructure the rest is welded.

 

See halfway down on page 10 of this blog

 

 

Here is a good shot of the rivets midships where it's triple rivited, the top row are the rivets holding the white promenade screen the bottom 2 are the deck angle connections, this tapers out eventually becoming a single rivet line around bow.

This is the only riveted seam in the ship.

Edited By Richard Dunn 3 on 22/11/2016 22:15:40

Edited By Richard Dunn 3 on 22/11/2016 22:15:53

Edited By Richard Dunn 3 on 22/11/2016 22:16:11

Edited By Richard Dunn 3 on 22/11/2016 22:18:13

[Richard H DunnParticipant @richardhdunn]

I had a few moments today to trace all the hull seams today at scale to calculate accurately the amount of weld seam to do on the hull and principle super structure.

I had previously purchased 30 packets of 218 Evergreen rod, the .5 mm one.

That is 10 lengths of 360mm so 3.6 m per packet x 30 so 108 meters

Have a look at this guys

the number at the top is nearly 53 meters

I can't believe how close I was.

And I guessed.

[Richard H DunnParticipant @richardhdunn]

Hi

I thought I would share this Conversion chart for Metal Plate thicknesses I made this morning, although its set up for plate it could be used for anything really as its just fractions,decimal and mm measurements divided by scale. just set your scale and off you go.

**LINK**

Hope its useful

Richard

Edited By Richard Dunn 3 on 02/12/2016 00:17:06

Edited By Richard Dunn 3 on 02/12/2016 00:19:16

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

It's very quiet around here lately…...too quiet. How are things progressing, Richard?

Dave M

[Richard H DunnParticipant @richardhdunn]

Hey sorry.

I was made redundant in Nov so my priorities at the moment have changed to working on portfolio to get another job.

Hopefully soon all will be back to normal.

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Sorry to hear that, mate. For many of us on here "work" isn't a consideration any more! Fingers crossed for you.

Dave M

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

Good luck with the job hunting Richard.

Colin

[CookieOldParticipant @cookieold]

Hi Richard , hope you find work soon mate.

Regards Dave

[Richard H DunnParticipant @richardhdunn]

Hey all
I am back into it soon.
I have made a big decision I would like to throw out there.

Given I live in Australia and we have hot temps I am going to plate my model in .6mm Aluminium sheet..It's sooo cheap.

I can get 1.2 m x 2.4m sheets for 26$ dollar each and only need 4, industrial grade epoxy to bond to hull and there you go.

Anyone used this before in this way?.

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Welcom back, Richard

Using aluminium is an ambitious idea and will look very nice once it gets a few dings and scratches etc?

Are you going to planish the compound curves?

One of those car panel rolling machines would be handy

All the best

Bob

[Richard H DunnParticipant @richardhdunn]

Hi Bob

Thankyou, had to get my job stuff sorted out.

Yes I will be doing it that way to go around compound shapes, I would have had to do almost the same with styrene anyway but I am scared silly of doing all the work in styrene and having it all seriously damaged or destroyed by the heat.

A model I did 4 years ago that I did not finish had that and it all lifted off, actually the one on a shelf in some of the shots in this post .

It can get to 40 degrees here in summer and plastic is just too risky I think.

The only difference for me is when I solder all my railing on to the deck edge I will have to superglue the shim it's soldered to to inside the aluminium upstand instead.

The rest should not be too different…oh and cutting out plates and holes such as ports etc will all have to be done with a bit more heavy duty gear, no more knife and score, more like dremel and cutting wheel.

But if it means the longevity of the model..I don't think there is much of a choice but keen to hear from anyone who has done it.

Edited By Richard H Dunn on 27/05/2017 09:41:43

[Richard H DunnParticipant @richardhdunn]

Going to planish all the frame ridges as well on all plates

[CookieParticipant @cookie15923]

Hi Richard,welcome back,I have never heard of this being done before .there is a doctor in very recent model boats magazines who as rivited a Ali hull , you may have a issue with expansion and contraction affecting the epoxy , you could do the calc using the co efficient of linear expansion to see how much it will expand from like 5 degrees to 40 degrees ,I think it may be quite a lot on such a huge hull and would the epoxy be able to accommodate that amount of movement .

Regards Dave

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