Simple start.

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

Thanks Ian. I may need help when I get to that part of the build. Nice to know someone with the same boat.

Brian

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

Thanks Ian. I may need help when I get to that part of the build. Nice to know someone with the same boat.

Brian

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

I only managed to remove the paper transfers from my formers this weekend as we were away with our grandchildren.

While watching 'day boaters' using the park and launch service in Abersoch I spotted this tied up in the estuary.

Nice to see a bit of wood amongst the plastic for a change. I bet the upkeeps is hard work.

Brian

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

 

 

This evening I managed a little more on the frames. I managed to remove most of the glued template paper at the weekend and the rest tonight.

I had to sand a few of the location slots to get the frames to fit, and I am now quite happy with the results. So that's a big thank you to all the chaps who have offered advice so far. I am going to have a go at glueing them all in place soon and I intend using some Gorrila glue. Will this be strong enough?

I have asked at work for any round bar off cuts to be saved so I can make some weights to place against the frames to hold them square whilst they set. Unless anyone can advise on a easier method. Turning the bar ends square will not be a problem for me.

The cut outs in the middle of the formers was done on my milling machine as described earlier, however this left a rough cut. To clean it up I used this:-

 

It removes wood very easily so I was very careful.

I am very happy with the fit, I was very careful when I cut then out sticking to the outside of the printed lines. Normally I tend to rush and make a b-/::;r of things. So for me this is quite good.

Now that I am at this stage I need to re read the MB mags and check what material is used for the long frame sides, I have plenty of balsa wood but I think it should be spruce. I will read the mags and check.

Happy modelling, Brian

Edited By Brian Dickinson 1 on 31/08/2017 20:13:59

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Brian

I would use Obechi strips 1/8"X 1/4" if that suits the plan for the chines & gunwhales stringers, it will give you ample strength and bends slightly easier than spruce.

Regards Ray

[Ian Bell 1Participant @ianbell1]

Hi Brian,

Everything looking good so far. As to glue I have to admit to never having used Gorilla glue. For assembling the frames, personally, I would use a good quality slow setting epoxy, something like Araldite 24 hour.

If the joints are nice and close, which they look, I would even consider using one of the classic wood to wood glues used on full size craft, Cascamite or even Aerolite 306 (if you can still get it).

For the chines ( "long side frames&quot  spruce or obeche are the usual culprits. Getting longish lengths of this of a reasonable quality is not always easy at local model shops . A good source of this is SLEC. They are really good for ply as well

**LINK**

 

Edited By Ian Bell 1 on 01/09/2017 09:34:27

Edited By Ian Bell 1 on 01/09/2017 09:53:33

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Ian/Brian

Aerolite 306, now your talking proper glue, I especially enjoyed splashing the acid hardener about on both fullsize and bigger models Gorilla white glue is great & cheap at Wilkinsons, both Aerolite & Cascamite are still available at Axminster Tools

Regards Ray

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

Hi thank you to both of you for the advice. I will look up the obechi.

Does anyone steam wood to shape these days? It looks a simple process.

Bri

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

So, I have made my weights and bought some glue and fixed the first former in. Just have to wait until the glue sets before i can fit another one. The weights are so heavy they stay in place on there own and and fine adjusting is done with a slight nudge into place

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

I have now glued most of the frames in place with the exception of the middle two around where the keel board fits. The drawing shows a pair of 3 mm ply pieces glued in place at either side of the keel frame the ends of which pass through one of the frames. Looking at Vics pictures in the magazine it looks like he has cut each piece into two and glued them in place, describing them as one being glued in place and then the keel frame section being cut out and the others fitted and glued.

Would it be better to leave these in one and cut the frame slot wider to accept them in one piece. Glue it in place. Cut the Keel frame out and fit the keel board, then fit the second one?

Will it make it stronger if I do it this way?

Brian

Edited By Brian Dickinson 1 on 08/09/2017 08:35:17

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Brian

Any chance of a photo of the drawing ? I'm not to sure what your describing.

Regards Ray

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

Hi Ray. I hope these help.

[Ian Bell 1Participant @ianbell1]

Hi Brian,

I think that keeping the doublers in one piece may be marginally stronger. The way to proceed, in my opinion is to fit first doubler, cut the keel frame , then fix the second doubler in place, leaving the slot for the keel piece to be fitted when all joints have set.

[Ian Bell 1Participant @ianbell1]

Don't forget, that if you fit the fin at this stage, it can make fitting the bottom sheeting much more awkward as you have to get the bottom of the boat in place around it. Sheet the hull first then cut out the slot for the keel.

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Brian

Thanks for the drawing, the doublers on each side of the fin keel are really only there to receive the bottom sheeting, the keel will gain its strength from being in between the bulkheads B3 & 4 it also gives strength to the base of the mast, by the way it looks a lovely design I may have to build one in the future

Regards Ray

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

Hello Ian. Thank you for the sound advice.

Ray. Thank you for sharing your experience

I will double it up and then sheet the bottom before fitting the keel board.

A guy at work says he will machine the keel out of brass instead of laminating the lead. I could make that go right up to the bottom. Which would add weight where I loose it with using brass.

Brian.

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

 

Ray. Just had a lightbulb moment on an earlier post I read of yours.

You get your terrier finished and we can meet up and have a tug of war! I will be driving my Britannia though 🤗

Brian

Edited By Brian Dickinson 1 on 08/09/2017 19:36:10

[Ian Bell 1Participant @ianbell1]

Just a thought with the brass option. If the weight is spread up the fin rather than at the bottom, how much of the righting moment would you lose ?

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

That's a good point. I often wonder how much trial and error goes into a model. He -Vic might have had it on and off the water testing it to get the weight correct. Unless he was a mathematic genius.

Most modern models have a bulb at the bottom of a long skeg. Maybe I could modernise it? Naw. I have enough on trying to make it never mind development.

Good thought though. Thank you for that.

Brian

[Malcolm FraryParticipant @malcolmfrary95515]

Simple rule for fin weight – keep the weight low, you need as much righting moment as you can get. Making it heavy higher up by using heavy-ish metal does no good. If your metal hacking friend can do it in aluminium., then add the lead saddles, you should wind up with a fin that is stiff enough and the weight where it is needed. Or just follow the designers suggestions.

The long skinny fin on a Dragon 65 is aluminium, and works well. A shorter one should be at least as resistant to bending given that it will be wider although carrying a much heavier weight.

Looking at various designs, the weight at the bottom of the fin should be at least 50% of the total weight, more is better, the shorter the fin, the more weight is needed for a given sail area. an't remember if it has been mentioned, but the weight really does need to be a nice shape – I have seen a guy with a puzzled look wondering why his increased weight did not result in increased performance. The taped-on lead brick shaped lump added an lot of drag. The boat sat up well, it just didn't want to go.

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

Thank you Malcolm that sounds like good advice. So I think I will go to a local roofing supplier and get some lead sheet and follow the build as it should be.

With the bad weather today I managed to cut out the doubters and the keel board. I tested the keel board for fit against the solid former that is fits against and where it fits the main keel frame. I am glad I did as the fit was a bit out of parallel. I used a flat straight piece of wood and drew a line about 4 mm away from the former but parallel with it. It was a small degree out, so off to the sander. It soon looked a good close fit. I am glad I did it as this would have been difficult to do when the sides are fitted.

I also drew where I need to cut the frame for the keel to 'slot in'. Looking at it I don't think the keel will slot in after the bottom is sheeted and that's why Vic shows it being fitted in steps as described above. Before I fit the second doubler I am going to get it sheeted with lead as I want to clamp the sheets together as they are glued up and this would be better done before fitting the keel board into the main assembly.

The stern former is also glued in and held level with a clamp.

 

Edited By Brian Dickinson 1 on 10/09/2017 16:24:17

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Brian

Maximum respect for the Brit, that would be a David Versus Goliath moment , back to your keel sequence, actually the clue is in the original article picture the keel is "built in" before sheeting the bottom and much better fixed for it in my opinion.

Regards Ray

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

Hello Ray. I think I had drawn that conclusion. Some time it's best to stay on the chosen path.

Brian

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

So today I placed the gun whales into position and stretched rubber bands to keep them in position. One thing about the post office is the consistency of length of there bands. Nice for keeping the pressure the same.

Once in position I eased them back on the middle two formers and applied glue to the joints. Tomorrow when the glue is set I will glue two more in place working towards the ends.

I still need to add a thickening board to the top joint of the keel board.

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

Its been a while (family, work etc) but i have managed to get a little more done to the yacht.

I have finished glueing the gunwales in place and added some balsa fillet to the rear end.

Looking around i could not find any 3/16 x3/8 hard balsa strip. So i settled for cutting some out of 4” sheet.

I have glued these in place starting at the rear of the boat. I will let there cure for a day or so before i start bending them to shape.

Does anyone still steam planks of wood?

[Author]

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