Simple start.

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

It has been a while since I posted anything. I was building a revel corvette and looking at the panache yacht last time. Well the corvette never got finished and I sold it on Ebay to a happy chappy down south.

The panache is still in the planning. I managed to got the magazines that covered the build and the plan.

My problem is I am struggling to get the former plans onto the plywood sheet. How can I transfer them with out cutting and glueing them down?

I was recently at fleetwood watching the yachts. Some were kits 'dragon force' but these are a lot of money. It does inspire me to build the panache though as this would be cheaper for me. I have also looked on eBay for an old model to refurbish but these seem to fetch a lot of money.

Any help will be much appreciated

Brian

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

Yachts.

[Dodgy Geezer 1Participant @dodgygeezer1]

Google is your friend here:

**LINK**

**LINK**

**LINK**

[Malcolm FraryParticipant @malcolmfrary95515]

If I remember right, the Panache was about 16" long, and designed before radio control became common in yachts.

A better bet would be the rather later "Akela", about the same size as the Dragon Force 65. It was a free plan from the late '80's, and has resurfaced at http://www.sealevel.demon.nl/english/downloadsXL25modelyacht.htm

No real problem cutting those plans – you can always print off another. Your printer might need a bit of investigating to persuade it to do A4 tiles to get the plan full size.

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

Thank you for the replies There most helpful. I will have a go at copying them and sticking them down

Thanks for the direction to a plan that I can down load.

Brian

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Brian

I always transfer former shapes by placing the drawing over the wood and popping the corners etc of the shape using a Bradawl………Then simply join the dots up

For further help, take a look at my current build on "Vintage Gentleman`s Cruiser"

Bob

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

Thank you Bob. Good idea.

This is the Panache. Vic smeed design. This one was at Doncaster.

It's very nicely made. Sorry about the orientation

[Ian GardnerParticipant @iangardner62867]

I think the Panache was about 30'' long, if it was the Vic Smeed design, and that photo looks like it.

I always transfer formers by tracing, using greaseproof paper- that way you don't have to make holes in your nice plan- but… horses for courses!

Ian

[Tony HadleyParticipant @tonyhadley]

The accompanying book from Model Magic, 1980s TV series included a photograph of Bob Symes-Schutzmann and Vic with a Panache.

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

Hi Tony. I remember that series. At that time I subscribed to model boats.

It was refreshing to see something on TV that I could relate to.

Brian

[Tony HadleyParticipant @tonyhadley]

Hi Brian, after reading your post, I had to go and watch the DVD of this programme in which Panache is featured. It was quite a good clip of the yacht, Vic and Bob. After watching the DVD, the part which I thought was outstanding was the ending featuring Alex McFadyen's unbelievable HMS Vanguard. It was worth watching just to see this model again. The DVD is still available from Spruce Studios.

DVD link – **LINK**

HMS Vanguard model – **LINK**

Panache is also featured on #6 of the Vic Smeed thread.

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

I had forgotten about the Vanguard. What a model that was. He had all his materials and tools within reach of his desk and work space. I was only youngish then but it made me very jealous. His skills were exceptional that model must be somewhere on show.

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

I believe that Vanguard ended up on loan display to the Model Boat Museum at Beale Park. Following the death of Richard Howard it will be interesting to see what happens to his enormous collection of models, some of which he bought over many years and others which were on loan.

Colin

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

Thinking ahead what will the best 4 channel radio to get? I used to have Futaba and acoms howerer there seems to be some new makes about ?

Brian

[Malcolm FraryParticipant @malcolmfrary95515]

The Hobbyking HK-4TA V2 was recommended to me by a chap who sells Lasers, fits them as standard, and values reliability because he doesn't like paying for returns. With careful choice of warehouse and postage (a little over £25 delivered, with a receiver), a good radio and, importantly for me, extra receivers readily available at low cost. Seems that its a clone of a Flysky.

Proper mechanical trims, actual switches for servo reverse, charging socket (runs on 8 cells), 3 colour battery indicator, case holds nicely in the hand. No need for a PC connection to set up. Appears to have plenty of range, the receiver has a slightly longer than normal aerial cable so it is easier to site the receiver where you want it and have the important 1" at the end where it needs to be.

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

 

 

Thank you for the pointer Malcolm. I have had a look, do you have to buy a switch and battery box for the receiver sepperarly?

I have also looked at winch servos. How do you work out what turns you need and how much strength of pull?

Brian

Edited By Brian Dickinson 1 on 27/07/2017 20:10:00

[Gareth JonesParticipant @garethjones79649]

Brian,

There is quite a bit of information on building Panache in this link here :- **LINK**

Don't worry about the number of turns on a drum winch. For a small yacht like Panache a simple sail arm winch will be quite adequate and much simpler to install, as shown on the Panache drawing. A suitable option would be a Hitec HS765HB or something of similar performance.

The receiver power supply we normally use in our models is a 5 cell NiMh pack. You can mount this in a suitable location somewhere near the bottom of the hull. We don't normally use a switch, just plug the battery pack into the receiver, or an extension lead from the receiver, when we are ready to sail.

Gareth

[Malcolm FraryParticipant @malcolmfrary95515]

You get the transmitter and a receiver and thats it, but that is common with most sets today. You make your own arrangements for power and switching, reasonable enough since a lot of these will be used in models that use an ESC that probably have a BEC and their own power switch. The extension lead idea is good because it saves wear and tear on the receiver terminals, not bothering with a switch eliminates a possible fault liability.

For travel, I look at what the difference of sheet length is between fully in and fully out, then, knowing that drums are usually (dangerous assumption) 1" diameter, get the number of turns I want from that dividing by 3.14. Usually fiddling with the sheet adjustments will result in a close fit between what is available and what is wanted. As an example, my Victoria needs about 7" travel, but has 400 square inches of sail. The winch is a 4 turn one giving 15" of travel, but the line passes through a doubler on deck that halves the travel for the sail but increases the torque so that although it is slower, it works in heavier weather.

The makers and sellers of winches tell you a guesstimate of the number of turns on offer, but you have to buy one to find out the crucial information, which the the drum diameter. The King Max ones as sold by Component shop and various others have a 1" drum, looking at drawings, I am guessing that the Hitech mentioned has the same, but would like to know for sure. Actual travel depends on the transmitter design. It should be the middle third of the control pot resulting in the middle third of the sensing pot at the servo, but different manufacturers always manage to incorporate variations either by accident or design.

With an arm, fiddle with the arm length until it matches. Whichever, if there is a bit of surplus travel, it needs to be at the "fully out" end. A strong winch or servo over pulling will damage either itself or the boat.

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

 

 

This Is my first attempt which has not gone too well.

I traced the shapes onto grease proof paper and then stuck them onto the 3mm ply. The ply warped and the paper crinkled up so I think the accuracy  will be lost.

Tomorrow I will get some more ply and photo copy the drawings them cut them out and glue them with something different to gloy glue.

 

Edited By Brian Dickinson 1 on 30/07/2017 19:24:21

[BanjomanParticipant @banjoman]

Brian,

When glueing paper to ply, I have had good experiences with 3M Repositionable Spray Mount (**LINK**), even with ply as thin as 1 mm.

There's no need to use much glue, just a thin film does the trick. It is strong enough to keep the paper well in place during cutting out, but not too difficult to remove afterwards: much of the paper will peel off, and whatever remains stuck can then be rubbed and sanded away.

After you're done, don't forget to turn the spray can upside down for a couple of seconds and spray until nothing comes out; otherwise, the residual glue in the nozzle is likely to build up until it becomes blocked.

Mattias

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Brian

Once you have traced the drawing just turn it over and rub down the other side to transfer the image to the ply, If your worried about it moving you can pin the tracing to the ply I also like to produce a set of card templates as an alternative method to draw round onto the plywood.

Regards Ray

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

Ok so while I wait for some ply I thought I would make myself a nice strong building board.

I made a frame at work to fasten my 1/2 marine ply top to. I think this will be nice and strong. The board is 1040mm x 250mm. I don't think I will make anything bigger than that size🤔

Cutting the sheet all clamped up and ready.

Sheet cut, sanded, drilled and I marked a centre line on it and cross lines which I am sure will be of some use at some time.

Just need some countersunk m5 bolts and nuts and we're off. I may varnish the top to help stop,glue from sticking to it.

My new 1/8 ply is on order from 2k technology so looking forwards to it coming. I hope this is not too boring🤓

Brian

[Ian Bell 1Participant @ianbell1]

I have just finished a light renovation on a Panache bought off of Ebay cheaply, a while ago. The hull came complete with arm type winch servo and rudder servo in place. The hull was actually good enough to leave well alone, but there were no sails included and only part of a broken dowel mast.

 

The first thing was to order some new sails from Frank Parsons at Nylet , who has patterns for designs like Panache going back years. When they arrived, they were as usual, superb; cut in white lightweight Dacron and with a beautiful shape to them.

I made up a new mast and booms with light aluminium tubing in 10mm and 8mm sizes found in my local Wickes. This is sold on their web pages as "Multi purpose Anodised Aluminium Round Tube". It comes in varying diameters and in 1 or 2 metre lengths under the Fire door strips and seals heading. It is ideal for small yachts and easier to get consistent cuts/drilled holes that carbon fibre tube at these sizes (for me at least)

The boat has now sailed twice at my clubs reservoir site and sails beautifully. Really nice to see the sun shining through the sails !

Edited By Ian Bell 1 on 02/08/2017 16:52:01

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

Hi Ian. Have you any photos. Sound good the Ali mast. When I am ready I will probably go that way

It was not white topped with blue bottom was it ?

Brian.

[Ian Bell 1Participant @ianbell1]

Hi Brian,

Tried to put a couple of photos on, not sure about orientation

[Author]

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