Prototype build of ELLIE

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Tony

The wood is nothing special really

I bandsaw the stringers and they are 6mm x 6mm section

The bend is achieved by sawing the back face, every 6mm to a depth of 4 mm

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Tony

I purposefully detailed timbers for this design that should be readily available at the local DIY shop, the stringers are 6mm x 6mm stripwood and they will be found in or near the pigeon hole type display where they sell dowel, wooden trims and decorative mouldings.

I bought mine from a small B&Q but I checked that other DIY retailers also stocked them so you should find them in Travis Perkins, Beers, Do It All, Wicks and smaller local shops.

Hope this helps

Paul

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

The first prototype

[Andy CParticipant @andyc56856]

Hi guys

I have been reading this thread with a great deal of interest. I really like the idea that the hul is build from a simple plan of A4 per part almost. i have other plans which use the more traditional plan drawings to make the hull formers and I must admit it still looks like black magic to me. How you get the formers from such a mix of lines is astonishing. Keep up the good work and I can see a set of plans heading to Tatooine when they are ready.

Cheers Andy

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Dear All

You will have all realised that Bob is having some problems with the chine stringer between frame 1 and 2.

I am concerned that if a builder of Bobs undoubted ability is having trouble with this detail then a beginner would have no chance of completing the build.

With this in mind I am looking at this area of the design, shown within the circle, with a view to simplifying the construction.

Paul

Edited By Paul T on 09/08/2013 07:53:35

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Shop floor to Drawing Office….

I should think so too!………Built in tolerance indeed!

I've never liked Paul's nose!……..It was so unusual and weird with it!

And his boat's not much better either!…..lol

Time now for some inventive plastic surgery!

Seriously, chaps, the aforesaid chine stringer created an undesirable sharp corner, where it met Stringer M and was causing some serious head scratching and email sketches whizzing about!

We wait and see what the Boffins come up with now…..with bated breath

Gerron with it, Paul

Bob…….booking waiting time…….again!

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

This version is prototype number 1 which I built a couple of months ago as a test bed for the design,

The sharp eyed amongst you will see little flaws, like the long twist in the keel and a few humps & bumps along the waterline.

This prototype revealed that some basic design changes were needed such as changing the 4mm thick keel to 6mm.

The version that Bob is working on is prototype number 3 and poor Bob has been in effect working blind as I haven't revealed these pictures until now, whilst it might seem odd to tie Bobs hands in this way it was a necessary procedure to check if the basic 'nuts and bolts' of the design were understandable.

Bob has, of course managed manfully and his 'blind build' is exactly as intended, this coupled with his feedback has enabled me to fine tune how the design should best be presented.

There are still a few kinks and I am relying heavily on Bobs building skills to root them out.

Paul

[LARRY WHETTONParticipant @larrywhetton68737]

Hello Paul/ Bob,

build coming on, i used this bow detail , on a narrow boat , wich had a tight bow curve,

may be rubish , but worked for me , so just made a quick fag packet sketch,

hope it helps if not bin it cheers Larry….

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Larry

Thank you for the contribution and you wont believe how close you sketch is to what is currently on my screen, the solution will be bottomed out by tonight.

Please keep the comments coming (this applies to everyone)

Paul

[LARRY WHETTONParticipant @larrywhetton68737]

Thank you Paul,

Glad to be of help,

some times it takes alittle kick up the bum , if that fails try my old site solution…………see below…

cheers Larry……

[Dave_PParticipant @dave_p]

Hi Chaps,

I am back from my work trip and have caught of with events.

As I suggested in an earlier post I would probably build the bows with a solid block along the lines of Larry's suggestion but am waiting to see what our illustrious design team come up with and would gladly give it a go. It must be hard to keep in mind the project is to be aimed at those who may not have built from plans before and will need all the guidance that can be given along with straight forward construction techniques. Having said that, it will be interesting to see how modellers own interpretation may or may not deviate from the suggested build sequence.

Anyway enough from me, keep up the great work.

Dave

[Peter FitnessParticipant @peterfitness34857]

Bob, I used the same "back saw" technique for the stringers on my Broads cruiser. As you say, care is needed because, once sawn, they are quite delicate.

The project is coming along nicely, and I'm finding it very interesting.

Peter.

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Thank you, Peter

We seem to be getting there now

The tricky part may be the sheeting in the bows area?

Bob

[Peter FitnessParticipant @peterfitness34857]

I didn't have too much trouble in the bow area, using 1.5mm ply, which I dampened slightly. This made it much easier to bend.

Peter.

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Peter

I had thought of using steam to bend the stringers and introducing the model builder to this process by detailing a simple steam chest powered by a steam generator from a wallpaper steamer.

I had even drawn up the steam chest and started to build it for photos when I started to worry that someone would be bound to scald themselves so I abandoned the idea and opted for notching instead.

Paul

[IAN_IParticipant @ian_i]

Hi Paul, Bob and Peter…

Really enjoying the build diary with great interest, keep up the good work.

As for the problem of bending wood to the correct angle, have you considered a peg board and bend the wood when wet.

Also i have not been able to find a local supplier who has ply wood as thin as 1.5 mm, who supplies it to you .

Best regards, great work,

Ian

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Thank you, Ian

We are very pleased that you are following the thread with interest, it is very encouraging!

The peg board is an excellent idea…..It`s ideal for setting stringers and hand rails etc

The quality 1.5mm ply is only available from specialised model shops

There is a show at Haydock Park next week…..You should find some there?

Bob

[LARRY WHETTONParticipant @larrywhetton68737]

Hi Ian ,

Where are you based ..?…**LINK** try here, 5×5 1/16 cost £ 25..,

very good firm cheers Larry..

[LARRY WHETTONParticipant @larrywhetton68737]

Hi Ian ,

Where are you based ..?…**LINK** try here, 5×5 1/16 cost £ 25..,

very good firm cheers Larry..

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello chaps

Paul has adopted the good idea of fitting a "Breast hook". . . . ( What a funny name? )

To make life easier for the Newbie builders!…..The same could have been employed at deck level too?

Notice that strange "L" shape on the back edge?

It denotes the "face edge" and is the standard symbol in professional joinery

This is the datum edge that the try square uses and is a delight to see in woodwork projects

It is slightly sad that the Newbies, who have not had woodwork lessons at school, would never come across this sign!

Woodwork teacher

[Dave_PParticipant @dave_p]

What a great idea Ian, I am now looking for a pegboard.

I still use the datum mark as explained by Bob. As he points out it was something we were taught in school woodwork classes. For me that was some 45 years ago when I first went to secondary modern school. It proved useful when I was fitting new work tops in my kitchen recently as well as modelling work.

Amazing what you can learn on this site.

Dave

[LARRY WHETTONParticipant @larrywhetton68737]

Hi Bob ,

That is what i skecthed , to help the members out there glad to see its been taken on board,

datums where used by the greeks and romans , so were springing lines , and bench marks ,

face edge and c/l marks ,

is a must in cabinett making ….so are shooting boards and boning rules ,

cheers Larry…

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Thank you, Larry

The "L" mark was for Face Side and a "V" was for the sign on the "Face edge"

Those were the days?…..eh?

I never liked the "Shooting Board"…..I was always fearful of catching the back edge

The tool that took some skill was the marking gauge!……Remember it?

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

My great uncle Frank taught me bench joinery and he always called it a Chuteing Board, he reckoned it was something to do with working in flour mills.

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

That`s a new one on me, Paul

Bob

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