Prototype build of ELLIE

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Here you go:

You can leave the small slide switch permanently ON as the big main power switch will operate everything.

DM

Edited By Dave Milbourn on 30/10/2013 08:41:03

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Thanks a lot, Dave

Your diagram would make a nice framed picture for the workshop

That's a good idea, Ashley….Printing off the diagrams!

Dave, have we your permission to put a few on our club website, please?

Bob

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Bob

Feel free, mate. They were done to inform anyone who needs it. If you have any problems downloading them then let me know and I can E-mail the original PDF files to you.

Dave M

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Here's a correct version!!

Sorry! (A couple of wires were the wrong colour in the second drawing). That's what happens when you're not yet acclimatised to the changeover from Summertime to Wintertime and you try to be clever too early in the day………

DM

Edited By Dave Milbourn on 30/10/2013 10:26:55

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Paul
Can you confirm that the waterline is parallel with the hull datum and about 10mm up from the bottom edge of the transom? It's not easy to be exact from the small drawing you did for Bob.
The wood-coloured bits are now wood-coloured and the white bits are white. Now to mask off and paint the blue bits…………
Dave

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Dave

Yes its 10mm from the base of the transom, 48mm up from and parallel to the keel.

 

When will your SeaSpray have its first outing?

 

Paul

 

Edited By Paul T on 30/10/2013 17:44:11

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Ta!
December some time.

Dave

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

All this talk about paint has reminded me that the bottom needs painting!

Here`s the first coat, to see the effect of the bright red alongside the lime green

Should look quite nice with a crisp white waterline?

Any comments, Red Leader?

Bob….Pint Shop

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

It looks wonderful and I am really impressed and grateful for all of the work that you have done.

I can't wait to see it in the water.

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Paint shop to Drawing office

Looking at your famous colour rendition and the propsed water line….The white line doesn't look right?

When the model is on the water, I would expect to see the full white line?

So 10mm up should be the start of the white line?

Will post a picture shortly, for discussion

Bob in the Paint shop

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

WIP picture for discussion

The little touch of red……Makes all the difference!

It`s a old artist`s trick!

Like it Paul?

I do………Bob

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Ooooops!…..Sorry Paul

Another senior moment! ….I misinterpretted your drawing for some reason

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

At this scale it is easy to misinterpret details but I should add that the indicated water line is intended as a design limit for and trimming and not a fixed point for decoration.

The hull decoration is entirely the individual builders choice and my quick rendition (as below) is intended to provide decorative inspiration and not specific design detail.

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Paul

What threw me, was the lack of red below the white line

As simple as that

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Dear All

To help explain I have rendered a few more images.

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello chaps

Can we talk about propshaft lubrication?

I like the little vertical tube idea, that makes lubrication easy, myself

What grease or oil should we be using?

I've always used Vaseline………Left over from when the kids were little……..45 years ago!

Bob

[Peter FitnessParticipant @peterfitness34857]

Bob, this is a subject that has been discussed many times before and there doesn't seem to be a consensus as to which type of lubricant to use. Some swear by oil, claiming that oil doesn't create any drag on the prop shaft, while others, myself included, use grease of some kind. My personal preference is for outboard motor grease which is waterproof and doesn't emulsify when in contact with water. I have not found any noticeable restriction by using grease as opposed to oil, and that could be because my boats are operating at a relatively low speed. High performance craft may be another matter entirely.

I make my own prop shaft assemblies and always silver solder a grease tube in to the prop tube. I then make a cap which is a slide fit over the grease tube, inject grease into the cap using a small cheap syringe, and the grease is forced into the tube when the cap is fitted. For the initial greasing I inject the grease directly into the prop tube via the greasing tube, and use the cap method for topping up. I have found that some grease can sometimes be flung around inside the hull, so I make a small shield that sits over the inboard end of the prop tube(s).

Peter.

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Thank you, Peter for your contribution….I am entirely in agreement

My problem at the moment is that the tube is installed without the branch!

Bob

[Peter FitnessParticipant @peterfitness34857]

That could be a problem, Bob, it depends on how accessible the prop tube is. My first model boat build was an Artesania Amsterdam and, in my ignorance, I had to re-do a number of things, one of which was retro-fitting a prop greasing tube. Because of the generous proportions of the Amsterdam hull I was able to (carefully) drill a hole in the prop tube and, (VERY carefully), soft solder a grease tube in. Subsequent assemblies have been silver soldered, but I was not about to attempt that in a GRP hull – for obvious reasons Come to think of it, I wouldn't attempt silver soldering in any kind of hull.

BTW, I rather like your colour scheme, it's something a little different, but quite attractive, and it should certainly stand out on the water.

Peter.

Edited By Peter Fitness on 02/11/2013 03:35:46

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Thank you, Peter

I've used a similar grease plunger device on my GE and works well

The question is…..What type of grease do you use?………Anybody?

Bob

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

I've always favoured Finnegan's Waxoyl, which is sold for rustproofing inside car bodies. It's easy to inject into a grease tube and stays quite fluid even when cold. Vaseline isn't waterproof, by the way.
DM

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Thank you, Dave

I`ll get some of that…..From Halfords no doubt?

I`ve been using Vaseline since about 1985……..And my propshaft sealage was always suspect!

Peter

Have a cunning plan for the retro fit of the greasetube

A sliding fit bush over the motor end of the tube……No soldering required

Bob

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Bob

This is the cheapest I could find. You don't need 5 litres! **LINK**

Dave M

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

After years of making my own larger diameter shafts I have found that Rock Oil Universal Marine Grease is ideal especially for long term, no maintenance units.

**LINK**

I have had the same tub for 20 years and its still half full.

The knack to using grease in propshafts is not to overfill the tube.

Paul

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Paul
Have you used it with a low-power electric motor or just your big petrol engines? I have some reservations about it being too viscous for anything less than a hefty 2-stroke, especially in cold weather. That said, this is one of those questions which gets a different answer from everyone.
Anyone else with a suggestion?
Dave M

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