Prototype build of ELLIE

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Setting up the canopy

Using custom made height blocks

The windscreen will be glued to a thin sub base, which will be bolted to the cabin roof

This will make life easy for painting and varnishing

The canopy rests on the windscreen and two packing blocks at the back end

The weight on top ensures temporary rigidity

When we are happy with the set up. the pivot blocks can be glued in position

Bob

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

Lovely looking model Bob but it's got Paul's footprints all over it!

Colin

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Thank you for those kind words, Colin……….You`ve made Paul`s day

But you know what they say…….Two heads are better than one!

The Dynamic Duo

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

The canopy retracted and the windscreen is bolted down

What else needs doing?…… I ask myself

A pair of rubbing strips on the hull side would look nice?……and a couple of scabby tyres

Paul…..How about a pair of bilge keels for stability?

A sliding hatch?

A few bollards

Glazing of course

Couple of hooters

A good rub down with a wet fish…….Plenty of varnish

The paint job…….OOOOoooo!

The motor drive caboodle……When it turns up

Not much else?……….Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

A pair of rubbing strips on the hull side would look nice?……and a couple of scabby tyres

Rubbing strips would look nice but not sure about putting scabby tyres on your lovely new boat

Paul…..How about a pair of bilge keels for stability?

Its up to you Bob if you feel the need to fit Bilge keels then please feel free to do so after all it is your model, Mr X has added spray rails to his SeaSpray and I am sure that at sometime in the future someone will add hydrofoils to their version, but from a stability point of view the bilge keels are not necessary.

A sliding hatch?

Its up to you Bob if you think that your version will benefit from fitting a sliding hatch then by all means fit one but you already know my views on this subject.

A few bollards

I would agree with Fairleads and cleats but not bollards as they might look to chunky.

Glazing of course

Of course

Couple of hooters

A pair of chrome horns would look nice on the varnished roof

A good rub down with a wet fish…….Plenty of varnish

Lots of rubbing down with 1200grit wet&dry and at least 10 coats of varnish.

The paint job…….OOOOoooo!

Looking forward to seeing the super smooth coach paint mirror like finish

The motor drive caboodle……When it turns up

Don't forget that there are lots of structural changes to make before the drive system is fitted.

These are only my opinions and you must feel free to do whatever you are happy doing, the design isn't cast in stone and should be embellished in whatever way the builder feels most comfortable with.

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Thanks Paul

Just having a look at drilling the hull and keel for the prop tube……..Mmmmmm?……Geeeeez!

The prop tube will be wider than the keel!…..Going to be fun, going through the keel midships?

Will need showing on the keel detail, early on in the build……………………For the Noobs!

The latest prop tube drawing, you sent this week……..Can`t read the small print

What angle is the design with the 500mm propshaft?………..4 deg?

Any more clues for the single prop version?

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

To read the small print try using the magnifier tool on Adobe Reader and read it on the screen.

The 500mm propshaft angle is 4deg.

The keel cutout for a single motor is the same detail as shown on the drawing I sent to you yesterday simply move the 25mm cutout to the existing motor space between Frames 3 & 4

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Thank you Paul……….I didn`t realise we had the magnifying glass feature

Notice how Paul hasn`t commented on how we drill the hole for the propshaft?

Well never mind!………I have another cunning plan!………We are going to enjoy this!……..`ish

Having drawn out on CAD that 4 deg is equivilent to 10mm drop over a distance of 150mm, I drew the path of the propshaft on the exposed keel section

Then using a home made drill, I`ve drilled through along the path

Then what?……..Wait and see

Only hope my cunning plan works, otherwise I`ll look like a right Gorp!

Bob

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

What an exciting adventure, chaps?

Here`s a lucky break!…….The prop tube is 6.5mm diameter

And the keel is also 6.5mm wide!……….So by clamping a steel plate each side of the keel, we have a super duper guide for my extra long home made drill!………Viz!………

Of course there is a highly probable chance of the drill wandering off course….up or down!

Never mind that now!……Here goes!…………Brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

Now let`s have a look!

To be continued!…………Ha! Ha!……..Bob

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Splendid!……..It`s worked!

Just think!……That`s a 6mm hole through 6.5mm ply!

Now need to check the angle of dangle and plan the next move into the unknown and through the rest of the hull!…………Not for the feint hearted!

To be continued……….Hopefully…………Bob

[LARRY WHETTONParticipant @larrywhetton68737]

Hi Bob,

another inventive idea , but should putting the shaft in at hull build stage,

plus motor mount and rudder , a lot easer when you have more access,…

but the build and design is spot on ..cheers LARRY..

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Thank you Larry

I`m getting there!

Got some drill wander on the inside……Couldn`t clamp the steel plates securely

I`ll sort it shortly

Bob

PS….Message to the Noobs

You won`t have this problem……….The keel will be cut out first to accomodate the propshaft

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

An update on the hole drilling

The drill is nearly full depth, but has broken out of the keel

Having great difficulty getting the drill to get back on target

Might have to resort to some chiselling?

Bob

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

Just use a pickaxe Bob – you can fill it in later!

Colin

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

What makes you think I haven't done so, already!….lol

The neat slot is getting more ragged by the minute

There is an area very inaccessible in a bulkhead

P38 heals all wounds!

Bob

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Can`t do much more on the keel at the moment, until the propshaft arrives

Without further ado……Saw a cruiser this morning with two rubbing strips, so we have two, too!

Now what do we think of the paint scheme?

Lime and Ivory?

We`ll soon see!

Bob…..Brush in hand!

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

Lime and Ivory look really good together and should be great on the model.

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Thank you, Paul

Here`s the picture you`ve been waiting a long time for?……..

And here`s the second…..

I think we`re onto a winner here, Matey Boy!

Well done Paul……I`ll bet that`s put a smile on your face?

I like it too!………The green is just the job!……….It`s Humbrol No 38 btw

Proud Bob

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Bob, just let me put my sunglasses on first..

Personal opinion….personal opinion is…dont like the veneered stern with this striking colour. Personal opinion is it looks very dark. Looked very nice when everything was wood colour, but with a painted hull (regardelss of colour I am thinking) it looks too dark.

Personal opinion. my taste only. Only making comment as I know you both like to hear an opinion.

Like the ivory, not a common colour, makes a nice change to white or off white.

Like the strakes down the side, adds interest the flatness of the hull side. Some rope fenders would look nice, probably to come, eh?>

Ashley

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

I agree with you, Ashley

The sponson veneer is too dark and distracting!

We'll see what the Drawing Office have to say tomorrow, before I put it right

Bob

[Peter FitnessParticipant @peterfitness34857]

Bob, what colour do you plan on using below the waterline?

I agree with Ashley concerning the wood colour, it is rather dark but, again, that's just an opinion. I also like the strakes, they're a nice touch. The colour scheme, while unusual, is very eye catching – I like it.

Peter.

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

Its a wonderful job.

The colours including the varnish are perfect and will all make a great background when the finishing details are added, the only bit that doesn't look right are the white plastic angles on the edge of the windscreen these would look better in brass.

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Thank you, Paul

All the super structure will be painted ivory….including the plastic corners

Will leave the varnished sponson, for the time being, as I`ve alway`s envisaged the name in gold lettering

Window frames are on my mind now!……..Ah!……..Just remembered a cunning plan!

I`ve seen some impressive window framing done using 00 gauge rail section?

Sounds promising?…….Bob

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Bob

Minor point but one which for some reason niggles. "Transom" is the rear frame of the hull which forms the flat stern. A sponson is a projection from the side of the hull for protection, stability or mounting weapons etc.
Builds are both going well. I'm currently in the process of applying lightweight glass cloth and EeZee Cote to the hull of Sea Spray and varnishing the ply deck, which I have stained light teak.

Dave

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Thank you Dave

Just a senior moment……….I meant of course…………"Transom"

We would love to see you model, please?

I'm sure the readers would too!

Bob

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