Prototype build of ELLIE

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Paul

My only criticism of the canopy is the poor support arrangement

The support arms are too close together, Colin's example looks much better, also similar is Peter Fitness's model

The sliding roof hatches look great and are a must and a couple of portholes with opaque glass may look interesting too

Thank you Colin for the canopy info

Bob

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Here`s the "Ring of Light" model…..The right way round for easy viewing, many thanks to Colin

Paul……Are you sending me the new pivot arm positions?

I like the crazy rudder shape?

Bob

[Dave_PParticipant @dave_p]

I think it is going to be interesting to see what others do to personalise their build of this model.

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Colin

Thanks for the extract, which book is it from?

Bob

I am looking at the canopy supporting system as the pair of straight rods are just to thick, I am working along the lines of using 2 – 3mm brass tube and putting a crank in them so that the entry to the cockpit isn't occluded.

Brass is more in keeping with the style of the model and using tube will give a far more elegant profile.

The canopy also need to be profiled better to suit the cabin roof.

Basically the whole canopy just looks wrong.

Regarding portholes and hatches:

Firstly let me preface this by saying that these are only my opinions and that the substitution or addition of any fenestration is up to the individual builder however and having said all that I don't think that portholes would suit this design, replacing one of the cabin windows with a porthole would ruin the aesthetic curves of the cabin and portholes below the deck line are the preserve of Edwardian river cruisers such as that one shown in Colins example.

As for hatches the addition of straight line sliding hatches would detract from the subtle curves of the cabin roof.

Paul

Edited By Paul T on 06/10/2013 13:04:30

[Colin BishopModerator @colinbishop34627]

The book is 'Scale Model Ships – Their Engines and Construction' by Bernard Reeve and P W Thomas. First published in 1951 and reprinted in 1959. It is still an interesting book and one to which I still refer.

Colin

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Thanks Colin

Just added it to my christmas list

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

I have moved the cockpit rear support toward the stern by another 30mm, this makes the total centre / centre distance of the supporting struts 75mm.

Everything else remains the same as Drawing 20 but I will email you a copy showing the revised position.

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

OK Paul

The rear pivot is rather close to the window frame?……..Move the sill up a bit…….Just this window

It`s not a problem is we use the pivot block method, as already mentioned

I think you have got the wrong line for the baseline……It should be about 6mm lower?

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Hi Bob

The rear pivot has the same vertical clearance as the forward one, which is 4mm, this might not seem much but at this scale it is correct. I can see that drilling a 3mm hole with its outer edge only 4mm away from an opening might be a challenge but its not insurmountable. If the beginners find it difficult they can always use your example of a pivot block.

I am concerned about using the wrong baseline but I have spent the past hour checking all five sections that are shown on drawing 20 but can't identify which line is incorrect.

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Morning Paul

On the GA…..The dimension from the base of the cabin to the window frame, scales 10mm

On my model, the dimension scales 14mm

Suspect the detail drawing of the cabin wall?…..I can`t find the drawing on my systen now

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Morning Bob

The dimension from base of cabin to the window frame is 10mm, the information that you are looking for is drawing 18 which, unless you have deleted it, will still be in your email inbox.

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Paul

Still can't find the cabin wall drawing

Just have a look at the rear window height……….It's not important, but if you look at the drawing, showing the three versions of the model, the rear windows are higher than the front?

The latest canopy drawing is scrambled at this end, please send again

Bob

ps……The holes in the canopy are dimensioned at 45mm….in the cabin they are shown 75mm….etc

Please check for the poor Newbies sake

Edited By Bob Abell on 07/10/2013 09:34:22

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Hello Bob

Just emailed drawings 18 and 20 to you, the drawing showing the 3 different versions is simply an original set of concepts and aren't intended as construction issue.

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hey, Paul

Got a good idea!

When the canopy is in it`s correct position along the cabin, simply remove the lower screws and drill through. Remove the temporary bases and replace with nuts and bolts

Hey Presto…..We are back as drawn

The canopy would be more stable if we move the forward arms to the front

Forget the fact that the driver can`t get in, with the hood down?

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

These period hinged canopies mainly rotate from positions just rear of the cockpit exactly as you have done on your model. I don't really want to change the design because of the entry problem that the lowered canopy presents but if you wish to reposition the forward support please feel free to do so.

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Shivver me timbers, me `arties……..I needed a new strip sawing facility for my Band Saw, at Eight Bells, this morning and for the benefit of the Newby landlubbers………This is the way I swab the decks!

What`s that?……No bandsaw!

Well, Christmas is acoming chaps and a Bandsaw is essential for nice square cuts , strip making, amputating fingers and cutting out all sorts of stuff

I even use mine for cutting frozen Pizza`s in half and also for cutting up heavy cardboard box material

The cunning plan……..Take a nice sheet of ply, the size of the bandsaw table, square corners are a nice feature for a quality job, with 30mm overhang fore and aft for belaying the guide fence

Cut through the board and make fast the table firmly on the starboard side with strong clamps

Clamp the guide fence fore and aft at the distance from the blade that you wish to cut the stock material

A new blade is essential for strip cutting, as a worn blade will simply follow the wood grain and wander off course!

Practice a few sample cuts, to get to know the ropes and set sail!

Excuse the frequent use of the appalling nautical terms, just a bit of fun, having broken out the Rum ration!

Capt Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Shiver me timbers and good morning Captain Bob

Its nice to see you in such high spirits this morning although 8 bells is a little early for splicing the mainbrace. I don't know how big your crew is but its not essential to take a nip from every tot.

Watch out for the Boson as you will be for a dose of lashing from the tongue if she finds you in this state.

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Aye Aye, Capt

I was watching Hornblower last week and I found it quite disturbing!

The Captain was very hard and cruel and nobody could do anything about it!

He was also slightly insane….Like somebody else around here!

Just quietly adding some bling to the model….in between coats of Matt varnish

About to order the motor drive stuff now………Going for a complete package that the Newbies may find easy to order…..Also hoping for a bit off….For charity?

Which firm would you recommend?

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

I doubt that any supplier will be able to give a discount, times are hard and I suspect that every supplier has cut costs to the bone.

You could try whichever shop or site that you normally buy from.

Paul

[LARRY WHETTONParticipant @larrywhetton68737]

MARKS MODEL BITS…..WWW.MARKSMODELBITS.COM

Try this lad Bob very nice shafts , and good service…….Larry….

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Paul

Do you agree with, this is the spec for the drive system?

Item 1…………………540 motor and bracket

Item 2…………………330 mm tube length prop shaft x 4mm dia……….(Can`t find source for 20&quot

Will 330mm be ok?

Item 3…………………Suitable coupling for above motor and prop shaft

Item 4………………….40 or 45 prop 4mm

Item 5………………….Electronic speed controller to suit

Item 6………………….Rudder assembly……45 deep blade

Item 7………………….12v Jelly battery

Bob

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Bob
Most 540 motors are rated only to 7.2v. Depending on the actual type it will likely run at a ridiculous speed on 12v until either the brushes or bearings – or both – give way.
A 40mm prop is also a bit too big for a 3-pole 540 motor. A 555 motor would be better in every respect. A Speed 700 12v (Part #6317) would be even better.
The shaft drawn on the plans is 20" which is 500mm. Model Boat Bits (Steve Tranter) make a decent 4mm one which has a bush halfway along its length to prevent the shaft from whipping. I have fitted two in Sea Spray. At 330mm, or13",  your motor would be very close to the hull bottom skins unless you drastically increased the shaft angle. Paul T is not a fan of steep angles.
Other than that your list looks fine – but suit yourself anyway.
Dave M

Edited By Dave Milbourn on 09/10/2013 17:43:54

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Hello Bob

Depending upon the spec the 540 should be fine but running at 12v it will be spinning fast, the 330 shaft would be just over 7 inches (178mm) shorter than specified. The 20 inch shafts are available from most of the web based suppliers.

Everything else looks ok to me.

Paul

 

Edited By Paul T on 09/10/2013 17:50:01

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Thanks chaps for your expert advice

I`ll use 6v then with a 540 motor and track down a 20" x 4mm prop shaft

I was hoping to get the lot from a single source

Bob

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Ships passing in the night….Springs to mind here!

Paul has designed a new motor layout, incorprating a 13" prop shaft, which may be more suitable for the Newbie and his surplus junk box

At the same time, I've just ordered all the stuff ………..Brand New, from Modelboatbits

Price…….£72 the lot

The question I ask is……If the builder is a Newbie……..He won't have a surplus junk box in the first place!…….lol

Unless he goes to the Club Auction!

Such is life…..Whatever floats yer boat

Bob

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