Prototype build of ELLIE

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Dave

The weird clamping arrangement has worked out well……….By sheer good luck!

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

I don't think that offering the keel as a freebie would have any positive or negative effect on the people who would like to build this design, The keel in isolation isn't much to get enthused about and without having the rest of the design to play with the prospective builders might loose interest.

Your photos and running commentary is a far more effective way of keeping the readers interest.

Paul

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Les Rowell used to incorporate a "step" in the skins at the point in question Have a look at the little Sea Nymph I recently described:

NB On this model the bottom skins were fitted first

Dave M

Edited By Dave Milbourn on 17/08/2013 12:27:33

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Dave

The step looks very technical….

What does it do?

Which skin is the bottom skin on your photo?

Bob

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

The photo shows the hull upside down with the keel at the top. The step allows the transtion between the side skin overlapping (the chine stringer and the edge of the bottom skin), and the two skins meeting in a butt-joint ahead of the step. It prevents the ply from having to be chamfered so much at the front in order to overlap that it becomes too thin for strength.
Dave M

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Dave

The step is a very clever solution to the problem, I played around with introducing a step just like Les did but I was unsure how easy it would be to explain to non experienced builders.

I think that in this case it might be easier just to beef up the edge of the breasthook.

Paul

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Paul
There's always more than one way of doing things. Yours is as easy as mine/Les Rowell's but a damned sight easier to explain.
These young blighters like Bob Abell have it too good these days………………… Les just added a cryptic note to the plans and left us poor numpties to work it out for ourselves.
Dave M

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hi chaps

Glueing large skins on a frame is always an untidy process…..For me, anyway

Especially when one has not given the method much thought!……..Like me!

Skins to framework are easy, but tight bends such as this, calls for good solid clamping

Clamping inclined smooth surfaces call for lots of lacky bands and hooks and ingenious tricks!

One trick worth remembering is the clamped length of timber, keeping the nose skin in place

The section where the skin meets the breast hook, has no suitable clamping areas, so we need to use the old lacky band and hooks trickery

The rear section is straight forward

Don`t forget to copy the skin before glueing in position

Bob

[IAN_IParticipant @ian_i]

Hi Bob…

Are you pinning the plywood in position and what sort of glue or cement are you using ?

Best regards,

Ian

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Ian

No need for pins,

i'm using PVA glue

Using slow drying glue, gives you time to get the clamps on!

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Ian

A good quality waterproof PVA is all thats required, as Bob says it allows plenty of time to position clamps.

Although instead of multipal clamping like Bob I tend to use 25mm rachet straps.

Paul

Edited By Paul T on 18/08/2013 07:08:50

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Paul

The datum face needs to be about 12 mm lower

Couldn't get the clamps on, underneath very easily

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Hello Bob

When I detailed the frames with the sacrifical section for fixing to the building board I included a 35mm clearence between the building board and skin (assuming a 5 to 10mm oversail on the deck stringer) this gap was specifically designed to accomodate minicraft type speed clamps.

The problem with adding 12mm to the sacrifical timbers is that it will make the frame templates to large to fit on a standard A4 piece of paper.

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Ok Paul

The clearance problem was of my own making!

I left the surplus material on the bottom!…..lol

I am fiddling with the nose joint at the moment and the lower skin and some clear instructions will be required for the budding Newbie!

This looks crude, but it`s my way of pre-bending the skin!

I`ve wetted the ply on the outside and slowly tightening the bend…..The pressure is applied by the clamped stick method….See previous pix

Nice to see something for one`s efforts?

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

For those who might be worried about the apparent complexity of building the bow there will be a full section devoted to it in the instructions along with drawings, sections and 'how to' diagrams.

But more to the point there will be a reference and an interactive link to Bobs building diary on this forum.

Paul

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Had to unscrew the structure ,to work on the opposite side and was pleased with it`s rigidity

Makes a refreshing change being able to examine all the nooks and crannies!

The next skin has been under load all night, just to make sure it knows who the boss is!

Paul…….I fancy one of those new fangled Brushless motors!

We need your recco for Motor, controller , propshaft and prop, as it`s the Haydock show this weekend.

We are going on the Sunday now and will bring the model to show every Tom, Dick and Harry!

Would be nice to have it on display …………..On a friendly club stand somewhere……….With a suitable description?

Bob

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Bob

The spec is a pair of 550s with a suitable controller, max 8mm dia shafts with a pair of 30mm props. However I am very tempted to specify the 600s that Dave M was advocating.

I like to keep it simple but if you wish to fit something else I would be happy to run the calcs.

Paul

[Gareth JonesParticipant @garethjones79649]

Bob,

I thought the hull would be in the centre stage of the Etherow MBC stand on Sunday. If not, let us know where its going to be on display as I would be interested to have a look and you can explain to me what a breast hook is.

Gareth

[Ian GardnerParticipant @iangardner62867]

Gareth, I don't think the concept of a breathook is that complicated! Quite a common bit of parlance in boatbuilding circles.

Ian

[LARRY WHETTONParticipant @larrywhetton68737]

Hi All ,

I see the hull taking shape, and a lot comment aboat breast hook,

i have a picture of one cheers Larry ..

[mike farrellParticipant @mikefarrell21522]

Hi Larry I knew it might come down to this level.Sadly its come 20 years too late for me but maybe some of our juniors might enjoy.Maybe a breast plate might be more appropiate,still good for a laugh

[LARRY WHETTONParticipant @larrywhetton68737]

Hello ,

its seems i must apologise, for the cheeky photo i posted yester day conserning the breast hook

item, sorry it caused offence , will now sit on the naughty step till the boat is launched ,

sorry to all concerned ………………Larry…

[Dave_PParticipant @dave_p]

No worries here Larry. I've been on the naughty step so often the carpet has worn away.

See you there.

Dave

[Peter FitnessParticipant @peterfitness34857]

Paul, 8mm diameter prop shafts seem rather large, I would have thought that 4mm would be plenty big enough. What is your thinking on this?

Peter.

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Hello Peter

I opted for the larger shafts because of the MTB version of the design, the bigger shafts allow the builders a greater range of choice if they wish to fit more powerful motors or a pair of IC units.

Paul

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