Louis Heloise MAR 2431

[Brian MuirParticipant @brianmuir84327]

And some rather lifeless fish!

[Brian MuirParticipant @brianmuir84327]

Just wasted my time painting the white trim line along the hull, but having used cheap masking tape, I was left with a blotchy finish when I removed it! Now repainted black and awaiting purchase of a better quality masking tape.

 

Edited By Brian Muir on 02/03/2016 10:55:40

[Ian GardnerParticipant @iangardner62867]

Brian,

I just thought I'd say how splendid this is looking. Very nice workmanship and I'm looking forward to seeing how you progress. And yes, it doesn't pay to scrimp on masking tape- I always find Tamiya tape perfect.

Ian

[Brian MuirParticipant @brianmuir84327]

Had to drill out the old rudder post tube, and fit a new one taking much more care to line it up correctly. I have tried it out with the old rudder – see pictures. It is too heavy though, so I'll be making a slightly smaller and much lighter one soon.

[Brian MuirParticipant @brianmuir84327]

The new slimline rudder, all working well.

[Brian MuirParticipant @brianmuir84327]

Bowsprit guide and roller

[Brian MuirParticipant @brianmuir84327]

Just some more details on the deck, then varnishing. BUT the battery pack 8xAA is overheating, I assume that the 600 motor is trying to draw too much current? Is the solution a bigger battery pack?

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Looking nice, Brian

Any water shots yet?

The new rudder looks the biz!

Bob

[shipwrightParticipant @shipwright]

When you say that the battery pack is overheating is this with the model in the water and speed set to full ahead ? If this overheating is occurring with the boat out of the water I would suspect propshaft misalignment or a seized bearing. Under no load the drain on the battery shouldn't be too high. What type of battery are you using and what voltage and Ah ? – is it a battery pack or a number of individual cells inserted in a battery holder ? Do you have a meter to measure the current ?

[Brian MuirParticipant @brianmuir84327]

 

This was out of the water, an 8 AA battery pack (not 6 pack on the diagram), I was trying it out for about 20 min and ar the end of this period as I lifted out the batter pack it was hot and one battery was leaking. I had run it for short periods at full ahead, I noticed that if I put it full astern the circuit cut out, then resumed after a minute. There is a UJ between the motor and the shaft and it is pretty well lined up.mi don't have a meter to measure current.

Edited By Brian Muir on 25/03/2016 15:50:47

Edited By Brian Muir on 25/03/2016 15:52:39

[shipwrightParticipant @shipwright]

Looking back to a January posting of yours it looks like you are using 6 x Varta AA cells in a plastic battery holder. Are these cells NiMH rechargeable or alkaline non-rechargeable cells ? For powering the ESC/Motor I would use NiMH rechargeable cells and only buy it as a manufactured pack where the cells are connected via spot welded metal strips. Alkaline cells in a plastic battery holder are fine for powering the Rx and servo (I use that) – BUT Alkaline non-rechargeable cells cannot meet the current demanded by a Graupner Speed 600. Obviously a leaking cell is no good and must be replaced before it rots the electrical connections – and I would spend a bit of time cleaning away any cell discharge that might have leaked.

[Dodgy Geezer 1Participant @dodgygeezer1]

Note that different batteries can put out different maximum currents. Some can only manage very small currents. That motor can probably draw 20-30 amps max, though I would defer to DM for an accurate figure. But at the least I would think your battery pack ought to have a max discharge rating of some 20A. What batteries are you using?

[Brian MuirParticipant @brianmuir84327]

Another correction 10 AA standard alkali batteries in the pack. I am going to look at the battery packs you suggest. The motor takes 12amp so what size battery pack would you suggest?

 

Edited By Brian Muir on 25/03/2016 17:45:09

Edited By Brian Muir on 25/03/2016 17:50:17

Edited By Brian Muir on 25/03/2016 18:08:46

[shipwrightParticipant @shipwright]

Have a look at Component Shop :

**LINK**

It even gives how long the battery will function at C amps discharge, 2xC amps discharge etc. In this example of a battery pack of 7.2 volts with capacity of 4.3 Ah, 1 x C = 4.3 Amps, 2 x C = 8.6 Amps etc. If you look at the graph it says that discharge at 2 x C would give you a sailing duration of approx. 20 minutes assuming that the battery is fully charged at the start of the sail and the throttle is kept full ahead (or thereabouts) for all of those 20 minutes. In reality you will be sailing the boat with occasional bursts of speed so the duration is likely to be significantly more than 20 minutes. This calculation has assumed that the motor consumes 8.6 Amps when going flat out. Hope that helps. Of course there are several battery packs on sale on the Component Shop website and which one you choose is down to cost, weight, size, Ah and voltage of the battery – often space inside a boat is limited. Hope this information is of some assistance.

[Dodgy Geezer 1Participant @dodgygeezer1]

Posted by Brian Muir on 25/03/2016 17:41:34:

Another correction 10 AA standard alkali batteries in the pack. I am going to look at the battery packs you suggest. The motor takes 12amp so what size battery pack would you suggest?

I would have thought that taking 3-4 Amps from standard AA alkaline cells would be not that far off shorting them. The internal resistance is probably too high to get more out – which brings me onto another issue: how did the plastic battery case stand up to it? The contacts would be getting hot and melting into the plastic! That's probably what was happening to you earlier…

What voltage do you need? Pretty much any of the Component Shop power packs will do – just work out what length of run you want and pick a pack accordingly.

There is no substitute for a meter. You can buy a decent one for £20-£30, or this little Watt meter will tell you everything you need to know… ccAAOSw42JWC6oJ”>http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100A-60V-DC-RC-Helicopter-Airplane-Battery-Power-Analyzer-Watt-Meter-Balancer-P5-/171953594396?hash=item28093ba01c:gccAAOSw42JWC6oJ

[Brian MuirParticipant @brianmuir84327]

I have bought and fitted an NiMH battery pack and it is running smoothly and keeping cool! Fingers crossed that's that. I am now looking for 5kg of lead for the keel, so I can do some pond trials.

[Brian MuirParticipant @brianmuir84327]

I got 7kg of scrap lead for £10 at my local scrap yard, now have to work out how to melt it all down, I used a camping gaz stove and a cast iron pot for a smaller amount last time. This time I'll need a bigger mould, I'm going to use sand, but I need clean dry sand, will builders sharp sand do?

Meanwhile I have to varnish the deck and redo the painted stripe, and add the name and number. I had thought of making a small stencil for this?

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Brian

Well done with the model build……Nice job too

Now beware!

You sound inexperienced in lead casting?

Use a wooden mould……..From about 1/2" wood……….Bone dry!

Plaster is OK but it must be bone dry…….Or else, you may get an explosion!

Make the casting in two layers,,,,,,,To reduce the amount of lead involved and bolt the two halves together

Cast the lead in the open air on a suitable table

Melt enough lead in a strong old pan on a picnic stove………Use big metal G clamps as pan handles

Use thick oven gloves…..Googles are essential

Use an old spoon, to scrape away the muck and slag off the top of the molten lead into a further old pan

It may be prudent to have a bowl of cold water handy, near by……Just in case?

Check on the route from the stove to the pouring position for a clear run

When the lead is shiny and runny

Take the pan of molten lead and pour it in the mould……To the desired height

Stand back and wait for the lead to cool down

Turn the mould over and tip it out…….And make another

Keep the children and pets out of the way

Show me the mould before you cast, please……..For my comments

There is another write up, for casting a shaped yacht weight……I`ll try and find it

All the best

Bob

[Brian MuirParticipant @brianmuir84327]

Cheers Bob, I have only done it once, my grand daughter has suggested doing it in two halves too….

I did find another forum with your instructions on it, so I am prepared to give it a try. Wish me luck.

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Thanks Brian

I have found the other casting thread

It`s below…….The 36R Yacht

Don`t recommend going down that route though!

Bob

[Brian MuirParticipant @brianmuir84327]

After a tense but rewarding morning, two lead oblongs that will hopefully make the keel

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Well done, Brian

How much weight have you allowed for?…………I had 9lb in mine and she sailed well

Bob

[Brian MuirParticipant @brianmuir84327]

Cheers Bob, the keel will be about 8ibs and I intend to use smaller lead weights inside the hull to trim the boat, so about the same weight.

[Brian MuirParticipant @brianmuir84327]

Lead keel cast in two sections and bolted together, then fixed in place

[Brian MuirParticipant @brianmuir84327]

First time in the water, slight starboard list, hull totally watertight… YES!

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