Louis Heloise MAR 2431

[Brian MuirParticipant @brianmuir84327]

Hi there I am starting this model, I have looked closely at Bob Abell's album, unfortunately some of his instructions have been cut from the images and the images are fairly large scale views.

I have made an angled ramp for the keel, and I'm off shopping for a suitable piece of wood for the keel, Bob used mahogany I think. He also used Obechi (?) wood for the planks, I wonder if this can this be bought ready cut to 10 x 3 x 100 lengths? This will be my first attempt at planking so any tips welcome.

[Brian MuirParticipant @brianmuir84327]

Scratch building this model

[Brian MuirParticipant @brianmuir84327]

This is You Tube footage from France 

 

Edited By Brian Muir on 17/08/2014 20:52:44

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Brian

Pleased that you have started a thread for your Louis Hloise build

I originally cut up an old mahagony door for the keel and structure

I did use Obechi for the planking but wouldn't recommend it, as it is too soft and fluffy for sanding

I would recommend pine for the planks….And remember not to sand the planks too much

You need to see the planks

The camber was about 10mm at it's highest point

All the best

Bob

[Brian MuirParticipant @brianmuir84327]

Someone else has suggested lime 10 x 3 mm for the planking, but I have heard this is too soft for this…. Will pine 10 x 3 bend and twist?

[Brian MuirParticipant @brianmuir84327]

Hi Bob, looking at your picture below, there appears to be an extension to the stern section of the keel above the transom, but I can't see this on the plans, was it a temporary fix to help you line up the frames etc?

[Brian MuirParticipant @brianmuir84327]

Here is the relevant section of the plans

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Brian

That piece jutting out is part of the hull!….It is quite delicate

All the formers need a temporary crossbar. Mark the centres on each one

Lay a flexible straightedge along the top of the cross bars from the prow to the jutting out piece and use a small spring clamp, to hold the formers in place

Don't forgt to chisel out the planking slots in the prow upright…..This is important when the planking is being laid

Use 10mm x 3mm planks

Be very precise with the first pairof planks at the top of each former…..Especially at the rear end

You can't be too careful at this stage

Check for symmetry and accuracy as you go

Fit the first pair without glue, to give you time to do a good job…Then go round the joints with runny super glue

All the best….Take your time and be precise…..You have a big job ahead of you!

Do not sand the plank joints too much, as the planks need to be seen

Bob

[Brian MuirParticipant @brianmuir84327]

Keel completed, including additional piece of the stern! Made from Sapele wood, incredibly fine red dust when sawn or sanded, looked like a scene from Psycho when I stood under the shower.

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

I recommend you make provision for a 1 metre type ballast keel in the keel at this stage

A slot about 16mm wide x 150 mm long should be ok

Bob

[Brian MuirParticipant @brianmuir84327]

I have left a section of the lower keel for this, at the moment it is a wood section screwed in place. I have used a solid piece of lead hammered into shape in the past.

B

[Amy jane SeptemberParticipant @amyjaneseptember49770]

Hi there Brian

I shall look forward to following this build.

All the best

Amy jane

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

My hull just for reference

It`s unusual to plank a hull, the right way up!

Bob

[Brian MuirParticipant @brianmuir84327]

Hi Bob, I have cut the frames and placed them in position but when I fixed a trial plank along each side they didn't seem to line up at the stern with the top of the transom. Nothing is glued at the moment, how flexible can you be about the position of the frames?

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Brian

Need to see where things are not lining up?

I see you have omitted the temporary cross bars……..It`s risky

The planks you are using are too thin!…….Try 6 x 3 section

Locate the planks fore and aft and study where the planks touch the frames

Don`t expect the planks to touch all the frames and don`t force the planks into the hollows ( I see you have tried that and looks very poor)

Let the natural flex of the planks be the final shape of the hull………This is essential

Looking at the first photo, the keel assembly looks twisted….Or is it camera distortion?

The elastic bands you are using don`t look man enough?

You are at a very tricky stage…….Be careful

Bob

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Brian

Looking at your photo`s again

The formers need to be a very loose fit on the keel, to allow the formers to self centre with the planks

Bob

[Brian MuirParticipant @brianmuir84327]

Hi Bob, yes I cut a 1mm plank which just bent too much, I have now used 3mm as per the plans and it is lining up much better, the frames are very snug on the keel, (which is straight thank goodness) so I will file them a bit to let them shift into shape with the guide planks. I'll then sand the edges to fit the curve of the guide plank, and mark the position and glue each frame in place. The elastic bands are pretty good but I'll be making up some hooks to allow them to be tighter as needed. I am going to fix some temp cross bars that extend above the deck so I can fit the planks on the upturned hull.

[Brian MuirParticipant @brianmuir84327]

I am still having a problem with the transom, it seems too large, the guide plank doesn't line up with the top of the transom but about halfway down…..

I could add some timber to the stern keel section, and shift the transom downwards, or as in this picture, I have reduced the size of the transom

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Hello Brian

I do remember this stage

Don't forget, more planking is added above the former height after planking the hull, so the transom is not too low

Bob

[Colin LeadbetterParticipant @colinleadbetter85912]

Sorry to barge in here but the plans don't seem to show any details of the deck beams. They seem to have a slight concave curve – can anybody advise?

Thanks, Colin

[Colin LeadbetterParticipant @colinleadbetter85912]

Sorry, that should have been "convex"

Colin

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

Colin

From the bows to the stern, the deck is concave

From port to starboard, the deck is convex with about 8mm camber

All the best…..Bob

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

How about an update on the build, Colin?

Bob

[Bob Abell 2Participant @bobabell2]

A reader, Steve Smith has asked a question regarding the rudder mounting on Louis Heloise model

I`ll use this thread to reply…..

Steve……..I`m not surprised you`ve asked this question, as the method is quite tricky

The bottom pivot is a straight forward pin in the rudder, pivoting in a drilled hole in a brass bearing plate, screwed to the keel

The top pivot is a short shaft, pivoting in a top bearing plate, with the shaft mounted in the rudder

The top of the rudder has a brass plate fastened to it. The plate has a square hole and the pivot shaft has a square section, which engages with the square hole

The servo crank is below deck

Hope you can understand my explanation………Just ask if you need more info

Bob

[steven smith 6Participant @stevensmith6]

That sounds good Bob, I was toying with the idea to use a normal shop bought brass rudder, and cutting it into the timber rudder that I've made, I'll use the pin and plate at the bottom though,

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