Huntsman 28 Restoration

[Alan BellParticipant @alanbell30496]

I’ve created a new post for this as I had mistakenly titled the original “Huntress Rebuild”

Fairly slow progress at the minute, the good weather has meant the garden is getting priority over boat building!

I have stripped out all the internals and have started rubbing down the old paintwork.

I did resort to using Nitromors paint stripper and an orbital sander After realising that hand sanding alone was going to take a very long time…

The old BA threaded prop shaft and tube came out without any significant damage so the new 5mm replacement should slide in quite nicely.

I no longer have the original Sanwa AM radio set, so have been looking for a suitable replacement.

Futaba was always a good make when I was a lad, and I’ve been looking at the

2-Channel T2HR combo which seems a fairly cheap starter outfit.

Does anyone have any experience with this transmitter and receiver combo?

Alan

[Alan BellParticipant @alanbell30496]

[Alan BellParticipant @alanbell30496]

[Alan BellParticipant @alanbell30496]

[Alan BellParticipant @alanbell30496]

[Alan BellParticipant @alanbell30496]

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Hi Alan

Yes, I've been the same, favouring doing things outside whilst the weather is so nice.

Good that you are making progress though and that you got the old prop shaft out OK.

I don't have any experience of Futaba (I use Hitec) but as you say they have been around for a long time and the spec. for that model looks good. I like that you can have a spring loaded or ratchet throttle. I have a ratchet on the Hitec and a spring loaded on an old Acoms which I quite like, so having a choice is good. So unless someone says otherwise I'd say the Futaba would be a good choice.

For the prop shaft I'd suggest fitting a P bracket to support it. I'll PM you about that.

Chris

Edited By Chris Fellows on 22/05/2020 23:02:33

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

I think there have been problems at the Hitec plant in the Philippines for some time and that has affected supply. I too use Hitec but maybe buying a Futaba would be more sensible at present.

I agree with Chris about the P-bracket. A and P frames

Dave M

[Alan BellParticipant @alanbell30496]

Thanks Chris and Dave for the advice. The Futaba set looks like one I’ll start with. Out of interest do you know what the working range of a 2.4Ghz radio set like this should be?

The heavy duty P bracket looks like it will be a good replacement for the original hand bent aluminium strip that was previously used. I bought the prop, tube, coupling, and motor mount from Modelboatbits. The guy from the shop, Steve, was extremely helpful.

Cheers,

Alan.

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Alan

As long as the set isn't designated for Park Flying then your model will be out of sight before it's out of range.

I've always used Steve Tranter's P-brackets on my models.

Dave M

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Yes, I've bought quite a lot of stuff from MBB as well.

Your motor looks odd to me as all mine have the mount the other way round with the motor fixing bolts adjacent to the coupling. Your motor shaft is quite short as well and is that a collar on the other end. Nothing wrong with mounting it that way and it may be the only way, just that I'm not used to seeing them like that.

Chris

[harry smith 1Participant @harrysmith1]

Hi Allan

I have a simple triangle plywood support between the drive shaft and the hull.

With a bit of filler it has not cost performance on my boats.

But It mainly depends on what you can get at the time!!!

Down in Tasmania, Australia it's very poor on the model boat scene, so it's more online.

Harry

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Harry

We're talking Faireys here, only the best will do!

Chris

[Alan BellParticipant @alanbell30496]

Hi Chris,

I’m still playing about with the orientation of the motor and mount at the minute. I think it will need to be fitted that way as the existing block for the motor in the boat is right up against a forward bulkhead. The mounting plate looks as though it is designed to take the motor either way with nothing impeding the rotating out runner. It is indeed a collet on the non drive end of the motor, it looks like the whole shaft can be removed by loosening it and an Allen screw on the outrunner at the drive end.

I’m quite impressed by the build quality of the Turnigy, if not a little frustrated that I still don’t have the means to actually try it out yet!

Alan

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Hi Alan

Yes, it looks a nice looking motor. In fact I'm impressed with the quality of brushless motors in general compared with brushed. They are a nice bit of engineering.

I've not been able to run any of my motors either yet as I don't have an ESC. Must get a couple soon and more batteries. Hate to think how much I've spent so far! Serves me right for building multiple boats.

Chris

[Eddie LancasterParticipant @eddielancaster]

Hi. Chris, I am also concerned about how much I have spent on the two lockdown builds, I have a pile of reciepts but daren't add them up.

Eddie.

[Alan BellParticipant @alanbell30496]

Eventually! After weeks of trying to find somewhere that had RC equipment in stock I’ve received this from Nexus Models. Still can’t get over the size and weight of the receiver, things have changed a bit in 40 years!

[harry smith 1Participant @harrysmith1]

Hi Alan

The forward/aft balance point should not be forward of 14"(360mm) from the stern.

If you can setup for a balance point between 12 to 14" from the stern.

At 14" the boat sits flat on the water and turns very well, loses a bit of top end speed.

I am about to move my battery rails back to transfer the weight to the rear.

Harry Smith

[Alan BellParticipant @alanbell30496]

Thanks for the info Harry.

I’ve still to purchase a battery pack and speed controller so haven’t given a lot of thought to weight distribution and balancing points yet. I’ve mounted the electric motor in more or less the same position as the old IC engine.

I did read on an other forum that the angle of the propshaft might be to steep, as the original design catered for IC motors. Not sure why this should be an issue though, given that today’s brushless motors have the same type of performance as IC’s I believe?

Alan.

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Alan

Whether or not the motor is brushless or IC makes no difference to the propshaft angle. The debate about that angle has been going on for nearly as long as the one about whether the earth is spherical or flat. In a displacement hull with a counter stern then there's no doubt that it is best-practice to fit the shaft parallel to the bottom of the keel, but in a deep-Vee powerboat this just isn't possible. To make up for the slight theoretical reduction in thrust you can easily compensate by using more power.

If it's the 42" Veron Huntsman you have then it was designed by Phil Smith. Alongside Vic Smeed he was at the absolute pinnacle of model designers, so If the angle of the shaft was OK for him then it's OK for anyone. Incidentally the shaft angle on the real thing was 12°, and that was designed by another genius [Alan Burnard].

Keep the battery pack back as far as you can. The position of the speed controller will be controlled by the length of cable between it and the motor; this should be kept as short as possible. The weight of the ESC will be practically irrelevant.

Dave M

Edited By Dave Milbourn on 20/06/2020 11:15:08

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

The Pandora's Box of angle of dangle is opened again

This debate has rumbled on for years and our favourite flat earther always leads the charge for the historical prescient.

However I am sure that if Alan Burnard had been given access to modern machinery and design techniques he wouldn't have produced a boat with a propshaft angle that looks like a donkeys dangler.

At 12 degrees so much power is wasted trying to lift the stern out of the water.

Paul

[Alan BellParticipant @alanbell30496]

Have I opened up a can of Propshaft worms….? 😮

[harry smith 1Participant @harrysmith1]

Hi Alan

Dave is spot on with his comments and drop the three best designers in one post !!!

With the newer high current cables, I have lengthen some from the battery to the ESC and from motor to the ESC with no problem.

Check the power/ Amp rating of the wire and go the next one up.

These boats had the motors and fuel tanks in the last half of the boat which was in the design.

They can preform over there design max speed( about 44 knots) if setup right.

Harry Smith

[Paul TParticipant @pault84577]

Hello Alan

No you haven't as this particular can was opened many years ago and continues to be a bone of contention between me and my esteemed colleague (and great friend) Dave Milbourn, No matter how technically correct my arguments are I still can not convince my luddite friend that donkey dangling propshafts are inefficient and ugly.

With these boats I see beautiful design ruined by this appendage, a bit like someone drawing a moustache on the Mona Lisa

Paul

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Yeah – but you can't see the dangly bit when it's under the water, Doc, and hundreds if not thousands of Fairey models have been build and successfuly operated over the years. I don'r ever recall seeing or hearing of any of them doing a forward roll when full throttle was applied.

I imagine that stern-drives would be used in such a boat these days but we're discussing scale models of boats made 60 years ago. A Huntsman with a stern-Drive would look as silly as that moustache.

DM

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