Graupner Wiesel RC setup

[captainslogParticipant @captainslog]

I have also left the option of adding adding 2 more prop shafts open to me by ripping out the old r/c ply board and replicing a shorter length one. but a single shaft did me fine back in those days so if it aint broke dont fix it

[captainslogParticipant @captainslog]

new motor and servo installation. its a johnson rs 550 looked it up on google and apparently it runs from 7.2v to 14.4.at 7.2 it gives 12000 rpm and @ 14.4 it will reach 22500. that should do just nice as i will have a fair choice of battery size. no load current draw is 1.5 amps and stall is 35 amp (whatever that means) the motor mounts are cut from ply and the plastic mount on the front of the motor will be attached to the ply mount. motor will be removeable if necessary. really getting into this now, cant wait to start main deck and fittings

[captainslogParticipant @captainslog]

sorry forgot the fotos

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

stall is 35 amp (whatever that means)

The stall current is that which passes through a motor which has been prevented from rotating while still connected to its power supply.

Dave M

[captainslogParticipant @captainslog]

thanks dave very helpful, does that mean i will need a 40 AMP controller? If i remember correctly I used to run this boat on a hitech 10 amp. similar size motor 500 or a speed 600 i think so long ago definately not 480 or smaller. never really come across a 550

keith

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Keith

No – you'll be OK with something like a 15 or 20A ESC. It's very unlikely that you'll fully stall a motor while sailing; even weed snagging the prop rarely stops the motor completely. It makes sense to fit a fuse between the battery and the ESC of the same value as the ESC's rating e.g. use a 15A fuse for MTroniks 15A Viper Marine.

Dave M

[captainslogParticipant @captainslog]

ok dave, never liked those tubular glass fusses in a holder though. what i use now is the flat car fuses with spade ends. i join them up in line with female connectors. got plenty of those fuses. motor is just about fitted, controller next and receiver. once thats all hunky dory I can start on main deck and fittings. just glad I kept the plans and booklet that came with it, as I think there may be a few fittings missing. have to wait and see.

keith

[captainslogParticipant @captainslog]

radio gear and set up nearly complete, quite chuffed . started on the fittings but have a problem. ALWAYS used humbrol paints so went to my local art shop to buy m64 humbrol. they have switched to revell paints. bought the equivelent colour. Has anyone had or found a difference in the quALITY? I find the revell has a less even coverage,it seems wishy washy,and the texture when dry is not as smooth as humbrol. for some reason when its dy it has a powdery effect and doesnt have a "hard" finish like humbrol. the surface i painted was rubbed back and sealed so i cant see a problem there. my only option is to go online and order my humbrol paint. any thoughts on this?

[Tim CooperParticipant @timcooper90034]

I have used Revell paint a few times in the past. I didn't find them as easy to use as Humbrol. Maybe they are Intended for use on polystyrene model kits? Perhaps a different solvent?

I buy my Humbrol tinlets from Cornwall Model Boats.

Tim

[Malcolm FraryParticipant @malcolmfrary95515]

"Real" enamel or acrylic? With old style enamel, you prepared the surface, painted it, let it dry and you could use it. With acrylic, you prepare, prime, prepare again, paint a few times, then you can apply a layer or two of protective laquer, then hope that that doesn't remove the paint.

Revell, being mainly a manufacturer of plastic kits, are very likely to have them in mind when producing paint.

Humbrol spent decades building a reputation for consistent high quality paint for modellers. Then they outsourced production abroad where it seems that employment was found for the colour blind. Having spent a few years simulaneously cutting production costs and destroying their good reputation, they are having an uphill struggle to get it back, probably not helped by regulations governing the formulas used.

[captainslogParticipant @captainslog]

malcolm, I hate acrylic paints, I honestly dont think that acrylic can get the same effect or coverage as solvent based. Whether you use the paints on plastic or wood shouldnt really make a difference. the main thing is to check what you are using on a piece of scrap first then cover your intended part if safe to do so. It just seems that the revel paint doesnt do the job to the standard of the humbrol. as an aside I used the caldercraft recommended acrylic paint set for my "endeavor" kit. I had a better finish from humbrol french blue than i did with the acrylic. I also found the metalic black humbrol was far superior to the caldercraft acrylic. too be honest caldercraft matt black and metal black show very little difference,and you pay a premium price for those paints. same with dope, you cannot replicate the finish or quality of shrinkage (which lasts) unless you use cellulose. call me old fashioned but I dont think I will continue with revell solvent based, will have to shop online i think. tim I agree with you and your thoughts.

cheers all keith

[captainslogParticipant @captainslog]

Hi guys, back again, still on the refurb, all r/c gear working. 1xhitech sp6/10 from the original set up still working perfectly. just got overlander 7.2v 2000mh batteries. speed controller working perfect with johnson 550. any way here are a few shots of the guns as were and after a bit of work a shot now. quite chuffed. sorry chaps need to load them onto my foto album first, why cant we just take them from or computer i dont know

[captainslogParticipant @captainslog]

[captainslogParticipant @captainslog]

many years of hanger rash on those, my other problem is with the bow. it seems to have collapsed inwards over the years, not sure if you can see clearly on the fotos. about 3 or 4 inches from the bow back can be sorted with filler and sanding. but towards the end of the foredeck it needs nudging out slightly to give the hull a continuous line towards midships.(if you know what i mean) as it is abs plastic i was wondering if i could blast some hot air in and physically push the sides out untill cool? dont know why graupner supplied formers to insert when hull construction took place. all it was were a couple of ply strips across the beam to hold the deck up. anyway i digress any ideas?

[captainslogParticipant @captainslog]

sorry, it was meant to read" why grapner DID NOT supply formers, bit of mis typo there.

[captainslogParticipant @captainslog]

anyway, as noone seems to know whether heat will work on abs and hold position when cool I have decided to first try the wifes hairdryer and if not enough heat I have a hot air paint stripper gun. obviously will have to be very cautious but will let you know what happens later.(a melted mishapen hull perhaps?)

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

I would try boiling water, with the heat gun you'll put a hole in it very easily 😢

Also consider putting some formers inside? Is it that bad anyway? It still looks like a boat !

Regards Ray

[captainslogParticipant @captainslog]

cheers ray, tried hair dryer no good. heat gun gently, not brilliant and didnt hold anyway. pushed some foam into the bow and using some filler on the outside, will sand back to shape i think. as you say it looks like a boat and is 40 yrs old.plodding onAll those years in the attic and window sill doesnt do abs plastic any good.

[captainslogParticipant @captainslog]

Right bad news first, put hitech esc 610 in. after about 10 miutes trying it out, it got red hot(burnt my fingers) and the motor stopped. not sure if I blew it but out it came. had a 5amp car fuse in line and wondering why that didnt blow first? so,in 1974 my uncle bought a macgregor s/c type mr15. 2 pots underneath,one marked neutral (self explanatory) one "throw". changed servo plug and hey presto. what a beautiful controller, no glitching, responsive to stick movement? so smooth!!! a 40 year old boat with electronics from the 70s. after 15 minutes continual use it was cool to the touch. btw the throw "pot" sets the motor speed to your stick. very clever, Set the s/c to the max speed of the boat type that you are sailing. I think thats how it works anyway. well pleased with a good days work.

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Get rid of all that old gear and many wires would be my advice, things have moved on slightly 😀

Regards Ray

[captainslogParticipant @captainslog]

ray there is nothing wrong with the s/c. its truly british. and works. more than i can say for the hitech s/c. seriously if it aint broke dont fix it. unlike bbc radio2 anyway lets get it on the water, hopefully if i can get all the repainting done its hard work and i know back in the 80s she sailed lovely cheers keith

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Keith,

Good show what ever suits you 😀 can't comment on Radio 2 !! Strictly Radio 4 for me , Home Service before that when the valves warmed up 😃

Regards Ray

[captainslogParticipant @captainslog]

Ray, not having a go but what do you mean "too many wires?" 3 leads to receiver, as per normal, batter leads to s/c s/c to motor. not sure how far tech. has gone these days but isnt that the minimum i can use ? unless theres some sort of blue tooth or wireless technology they employ these days with lipos and brushless. cant really understand the logic your getting at. which wires should i get rid of? any help appreciated

keith

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

I'm sure it all works fine it just looked a bit busy 😀I

Your right nothing has changed in the last 30 years really

Regards Ray

Edited By Ray Wood 2 on 24/08/2019 21:14:09

[captainslogParticipant @captainslog]

nice 1 ray, we shall see when its all back together, looking forward to it i am. 30 yrs? lol the macgregor is nearly 50 yrs old. still got the box

keith

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