Fairey Huntsman 28

[Brian White 3Participant @brianwhite3]

Hi Chris, Saw you are moving from the UJ coupling to the rubber sandwich type. I'm moving the opposite way, changing out the rubber to UJ. The reason being too much vibration being transferred to the prop shaft. I aligned the two shafts and motors with an solid alignment tool, so know alignment is pretty good, however both shafts are transmitting vibration to the hull. Awaiting delivery to see if this will be resolved.

Love the prop display!

Brian

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

Sometimes the brass bushes on these things are not QUITE centred and can cause vibration, so often worth simply changing the brass bits when encountering the dreaded rattle.

Chris. The thing to have in the spares box is the two bladed plastic props. X and S (standard). These will drive anything and are ideal for experimenting with. For my money they work much better than brass ones, however don't look as good. So cheap as well.

Ashley

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Brian – No, I'm using both. The UJ type was left on the worktop from the River Cruiser installation. I'm using that type as the model is low power and speed though being Raboesch and well made I'm sure they would cope with higher power. In my faster models I'm using the sandwich type. Reports I've read say that they are smooth and quiet. I've cut the inner shaft to suit now!

Ashley – Got to be bronze or brass for my Faireys! Performs well in the Huntress so I see no reason why they shouldn't in my builds as I'm looking for good not blistering performance.

Chris

[harry smith 1Participant @harrysmith1]

Hi All

The rate Chris is building all these Fairey's he will require his own pond !!!

Harry

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Hi Harry

Slow rate in my case but my own lake would be nice! And a bigger house!

Scores on the doors are:

1: 8 Huntsman 31 – bought

1:12 Huntress – DM build

All 1:12 builds

Huntsman 28

River Cruiser

Swordsman 33

Huntsman 31 Sport

Fisherman 27 – Soon to start

Huntsman 31 aft cabin – sometime

Note that the Spearfish isn't on the list!

Chris

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

More faireys than A Midsummer Night's Dream….. I only have three-and-a-half now, although I must have built twelve or more over the years.

DM

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Chris,

After the lock down is lifted, you really need to get out more !!!!😀😀😀

Regards Ray

[Eddie LancasterParticipant @eddielancaster]

We will all need to get out more😄.

Eddie.

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

I said I had a problem!

Hopefully in a few weeks time we can get to the water. Fortunately our club is on private land so there won't be a problem with hoardes of folks in one place.

Dave – what's the half? Big Huntress?

Chris

Edited By Chris Fellows on 07/05/2020 21:23:01

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Dave – what's the half? Big Huntress?

Nope – it's a half-finished 1/12 scale one, left over from 'the kit that never was'. But that's another story…

DM

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

That's a pity. I could have been building one of those!

Chris

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

As with the River Cruiser the prop shaft and P bracket was secured with epoxy putty, which once it had gone off was filed and sanded to fair it to the hull. Before doing this, as mentioned earlier the prop tube was shortened with a mini tube cutter. This took some effort compared with cutting copper tube and the end had to be tidied up with a file. I could have avoided shortening the tube if I'd used the shorter coupling (inset in photo) as this is what I used in my drawing, but the length of tube inside the hull protruding from the keel would be quite long and unsupported so I decided to use the longer alloy/rubber/alloy type.

The hull was then turned right side up and the P bracket and prop tube holes through the keel filled with 20 minute epoxy.

Again this was left overnight and I then replaced the solid coupling with the flexible coupling and checked that the prop shaft was turning smoothly.

As with the River Cruiser, ready for painting now.

Chris

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

As with the River Cruiser, ready for painting now.

So…….we wait for how long, Chris? Like my driving instructor once told me about the Mini he was using for the job "Don't let it scare you – just point and squirt!"

DM

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Thanks Dave.

Fortunately the weather's taken a turn for the worse and I need to order some stuff!

Chris

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Chris,

Lovely work on all your boats, I'm curious why the weather is a problem ??I

Regards Ray

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Thanks Ray

Before painting I need to:

Design and produced detailed drawings for a demountable spray booth.

Accurately measure the surface area of each model (currently two) and calculate, based on film thickness, the amount of primer and top coats (by individual colour) required for each.

Appropriate said paint.

Read H&S guidance on application of said paint and check that my face mask meets the required British Standards.

Order any grit that I don't have, panel wipes and tack cloths.

Find the required copy of Model Boats and read DM's article on Finishing etc. again.

Avoid Helen's question on when am I starting the landing and any other tasks.

And finally, to answer your question Ray, to wait for a suitable day – dry, sunny, warm and light or no wind. Unfortunately, or rather very unfortunately, after a spell of ideal conditions we are moving into a spell of less favourable conditions.

Now, and I can't for the life of me see why, Dave thinks I'm provaracating and actually scared of painting my models! I'll let others decide.

Mmm, maybe start another hull.

Chris

Edited By Chris Fellows on 11/05/2020 09:58:25

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Chris,

Well I asked for that, except for primer I brush paint everything , I expect the Fairey's were ? Nothing quite as satisfying as achieving a nice gloss finish with a brush, but good brushes are essential 😃

If I need to spray I go in the shed 😎

Remember this one ?? Humbrol gloss ✔

Regards Ray

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

No Ray, I should have put a .

I had been thinking about brush painting but didn't know what quality of finish could be achieved? I take it the brush strokes aren't too visible if you use good brushes – which do you use?

Do you use Halfords spray primer and then Humbrol gloss?

Was going to ask if you'd painted Osprey yet? Looks great.

Chris

[Brian White 3Participant @brianwhite3]

Hi Chris,

Lots of ideas for spray booths on YouTube.

I built mine from a 50L plastic crate from B&Q, extractor, strip light, switch and some thin ply. The removable filter is two layers of kitchen paper. It didn't take long to build and when not in use can be used as storage!

You'd probably need a bigger box, but the principles the same. I find the paint fumes are nicely displaced, so have no issues with getting high! A few pics of my attempt …

I use a bit of cardboard inside just to keep it clean …

 

Edited By Brian White 3 on 11/05/2020 11:55:41

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Hi Brian

My post about designing and drawing one was tongue in cheek. Was just going to get one of those "spring up" plastic sheet covered canopy things to contain the overspray.

Your spray booth is impressive though, thanks for the information. Certainly a good option for smaller parts.

Chris

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Chris,

You got me with that one !!!!😄😄😄

But there are one or two folk On here who would go to those lengths 😉

The key to successful brush painting is a dust free area, and go for multiple thin coats, I normally use art brush sets 5-6 for £10 wide flat bristles.

I know a guy who hand paints 5" gauge loco's and has the work flat and floats the paint on for a mirror finish, then puts it in a cardboard box to dry to reduce the airborne dust settling on it.

regards Ray

Edited By Ray Wood 2 on 11/05/2020 15:02:04

Edited By Ray Wood 2 on 11/05/2020 15:02:52

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Hi Ray

Thanks for the info. I'll probably have a go at spraying first, don't won't to appear chicken!

Chris

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Initially I was going to mount the rudder servo on the keel and have the rudder arm to the side. But the rudder is close to the transom so have now decided to have the rudder arm fore and aft and the servo to the side.

Knocked up a drawing for the rudder servo mounting, primarily done to get the angle the same as the hull which the mounting is going to be glued to.

Then the parts were cut out of 3mm ply with beech bearers for screwing the servo to and glued together with Aliphatic resin and now ready to be glued into the boat using the same. You will see that I turned the bearers round as the deep part wouldn't fit between the rubber mountings and the cable.

Chris

 

Edited By Chris Fellows on 29/05/2020 11:54:44

[Tim RoweParticipant @timrowe83142]

NIce work Chris

Are you secretly building under a sun ray lamp.

Just for your info I am hand painting Galileo and the topsides not have their first two top coats. Quite a few more to go.

Tim R

[Chris FellowsParticipant @chrisfellows72943]

Hi Tim

I've got a red roller blind over the window in that room and when the sun is strong it overcomes the flash.

Looking forward to some photos of Galileo update. Given your usual standard I assume you are getting a good paint finish?

Was going to order the Halfords spray paint online but from Monday We are able to visit the shops again so will do that.

Chris

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