A Tug of two halfs

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

Roger

You might find 24gsm cloth is too fragile to manhandle round compound curves. It's really best for draping over a model aircraft wing or tailplane. I prefer to use the next grade up i.e. 34gsm [1oz] for wood hulls. **LINK**

No quibbles with your choice of resin, though some prefer Eze-Kote which is water-based and so cleans up a lot easier than epoxy.

Dave M

[Eddie LancasterParticipant @eddielancaster]

Hi. Roger and Dave. Thank you for your advice Dave, luckily I have gone for the 34gsm cloth.

Roger yes I am following the designers method for the superstructure but I have added a 1/8" ply platform 3/4" below the top deck to mount the speaker for the sound unit, with all the side planking in place it is very rigid but light.

I think the 261mm propshaft will do fine , it will move the motor back giving a bit more space in front of it.

The barge is larger at 1/24 scale.

regards to you both.

Eddie.

[Roger ClarkParticipant @rogerclark]

Hi Dave,

Thanks I'll put it on the list.

Hi Eddie,

Good idea, should act as a sound board, I think I'll concentrate on getting a serviceable boat first before adding the 'bells and whistles' so to speak. I have a number of raspberry pies and arduinos so might add in WiFi to drive the afformentioned.

Regards

Roger

Edited By Roger Clark 1 on 29/03/2019 10:26:00

Edited By Roger Clark 1 on 29/03/2019 10:27:03

[Roger ClarkParticipant @rogerclark]

Hi Eddie,

Have you got a photo of the bow shape of the hull please? Just having a little bit of difficulty getting the shape right.

Thanks

Roger

[Eddie LancasterParticipant @eddielancaster]

Good morning Roger, I hope the following gives you the information you require.

For a tug it appears to have a fine entry?

The photos also show the topworks so far.

This last photo shows the speaker for the engine sound in place, the engine room vent covers it.

Regards.

Eddie.

[Roger ClarkParticipant @rogerclark]

Thanks Eddie,

Looking great

Roger

[Roger ClarkParticipant @rogerclark]

Well, at risk of being told I'm rubbish here's a photo of progress so far

Didn't do a great job on the first half but I'll see how the second half goes and maybe try a couple of tins of car filler and see how it looks then, might save on lead for displacement!!, and it's Christmas , kind of.

a couple of motors courtesy of Ray, Thank you Ray, a 261mm propshaft, 55mm prop and a water intake/outlet kit, just to look good . Ordered a 1 x 2M piece of fiberglass from the site we all know and love and got a 1M2 piece, not happy, waiting to see what they want to do, refund or send part 2. I'm assuming that Deluxe Products brand are the usual suppliers for this product (they weren't the seelers by the way).

Need to get some more bits yet, 20amp motor controller, uj, battery plus other leccys.

Regards

Rog

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Roger,

You are cracking on well, you may want to make some access to the forward compartments for ballast so you can trim her fore and aft so you spread the load on the hull. You also need to see how much of the bulkheads need cutting out for the motor to sit down low enough.

Regards Ray

[Roger ClarkParticipant @rogerclark]

Hi Ray,

Thanks, I'm hoping to have my battery pack, once I know what to get size and type, and then I can test out placement before marrying up the 2 halves. Theres only one frame that could be opened up but there would be little space in there.

What's usually used for the control wires for the rudder? wire in tube? if so what size do I need as it will be a big rudder?

It seems ages since the last mag, I have taken out subs but don't know if we get the mag through the door earlier than they come out in the shops.

Regards

Rog

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Roger

I would use 16g brass rods with RC aeroplane clevises for with a double push-pull arrangement onto a double tiller from the servo.

As your equipped for engineering this won't take you long 😊

Regards Ray

[Roger ClarkParticipant @rogerclark]

Haha, I'll have to look into my stock, I suspect my brass stock is a mite larger than that, need to get some smaller gauge wire anyway. Ooh I might be able to borrow a bit from my Löschkreuzer Weser kit.

Regards

Rog

[Roger ClarkParticipant @rogerclark]

I'm trundling on slowly, found a video of railroad tug pics extracted from a web site, quite interesting for any closet tuggers lurking out there.

The website the photos come from is [email protected]

Further info available from Tugboats Enthusiasts Society, these are US tugs of all different types and sizes

Quick question, is the Gorilla foaming glue of any use in modelling?

Rog

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Roger,

The video clip just made your model take a lot longer !! Fantastic details on the real thing for you to incorporate and the working color schemes are so varied , makes the prototype in the MB look too clinical ? But they look great 👍 damn may have put one on my list of stuff to build !! 😀.

Regards Ray

[Roger ClarkParticipant @rogerclark]

Aaaw heck Ray, I thought they were all shades of grey, I've gone colour blind I'm spoilt for choice now!!!

Not sure how I'm going to do the stanchions though, have to look for ready made as I don't want to spoil the look.

Oh well onward and downward.

Hi Eddie, how's yours doing?

Roger

Edited By Roger Clark on 08/04/2019 10:37:38

[Eddie LancasterParticipant @eddielancaster]

Hi. Roger, it looks like we can paint our tugs any colour we like ,including black!

I have now put two layers of glass and resin on the hull I think the extra strength will be needed for such a large heavy boat, I am putting the top rubbing strips on at the moment, I will post pictures when that is done.

Now the hull is water tight I will be able to float it on the pond and work out how much lead it will need to get it down to the water line.

BTW it took 50 grams of resin to coat one side of the hull.

Regards.

Eddie.

[Eddie LancasterParticipant @eddielancaster]

The build so far, about ready for the first coat of paint, but need the info for the rails and gunwales first.

Have started on the rudder 4mm stainless for the main stock with 2mm press fitted to build the blade on.

Eddie.

[Roger ClarkParticipant @rogerclark]

It's looking really good Eddie, I think I will vary the design just to be different , might still be a mix from various tugs though, as they are steamers I think some big vents are required and I might change the rubbing strakes as well.

Are you going to buy or build the stanchions? Does seem a bit of a hassle to try to make them as per the article.

Are you building the rudder from wood then? I thought of making mine from brass shaped and wood bonded on possibly with a brass edging for protection or is that going too far?

I'm thinking of building the funnel out of copper tube with brass strapping and capping, will be painted of course.

I've just finished planking the 2 halves and am rubbing down, I'll post some piccies once they've been to the altar and been married

Cheers

Roger

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Roger,

Looks like your rudder will be unbalanced as the drawing, this makes the steering servo work much harder, here is the rudder on my Cullamix 1/8th copper , works well with a quadrant and cables from the bridge.

Regards Ray

[Roger ClarkParticipant @rogerclark]

Thanks Ray, do you have a photo of the top part of the rudder setup please? What do you use for the cables, is the rod linkage @ hobbies the one?

've got 1/8th brass and some suitable brass tubing and 1/8th brass rod, it'll go the full length of the rudder and be strapped and silver soldered as I don't think soft solder would take the strain.

Sorry for all the questions but I don't want muck up on this and I'm not really finding clear answers on't interweb.

The article seems to use a lot of 0.5 mm material, both ply and strip, I've not seen any of this around, most of the stripwood seems to start at 1.5/6 mm. It's not really a problem as I can steam and bent 1.6 easily.

I'm of a mind to use either basswood or spruce on the decking, any thoughts anybody?

Regards

Roger

Edited By Roger Clark on 10/04/2019 21:35:15

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Roger,

If you can put the tiller and linkage under the deck it's easiest route, the cable steering on Cullamix on the deck with rollers is such a feature of the real thing I had to do it and because the "tug men" at my club said it wouldn't work ! Red Ray to a bull stuff and it does work with stainless steel fishing trace. Photos in my album 😀

Regards Ray

Don't worry about metric sizes we are going back to imperial soon 😯

Edited By Ray Wood 2 on 10/04/2019 22:00:55

[Roger ClarkParticipant @rogerclark]

Hi Ray, I did look at Cullamix, once I found it (really need to do some sorting) . Couldn't see any of the tiller though.

There's no way that the tiller will go under the deck, it's 'solid' balsa so it will have to hide under the grating. I guess I will have to take some copper tube through the frames and and up through the deck and then connect to the tiller as in crossing the 'T'. That should give me enough movement for 30 degrees each way. Have to order up some trace wire, 120lb do ok Ray?

Cheers

Roger

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Edited By Ray Wood 2 on 10/04/2019 22:48:37

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Roger

Mecanno pulley used, 30 lbs ss trace, not much force needed to steer.

Regards Ray

[Roger ClarkParticipant @rogerclark]

Ah right see what you mean, are the 2 other pulleys sail type ones?

Regards

Roger

BTW nice work

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Roger

All the pulleys are home brewed, turned the pulleys, 1/32" brass folded and drilled, 1/16" brass rivet in the middle, 3/64th rivets to the deck & super glued. The stainless fishing trace is plastic coated and works well. The trace is fixed to the big Meccano pulley it doe'nt have enough tension to use only friction, It should of course be a quadrant but it can't be seen under the rear timber grating  

Regards Ray

Edited By Ray Wood 2 on 11/04/2019 08:25:09

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