foamboard hull

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foamboard hull

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26 December 2012 at 16:01 #38377
david cuthbertson
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@davidcuthbertson76633
Has anyone tried building a foamboard hull for an RC ship? Obviously, it would have to be GRP'ed, and some wood for reinforcing critical areas. I wanted to do a largish model with a light hull for easier car roof loading.
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26 December 2012 at 16:01 #6850
david cuthbertson
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@davidcuthbertson76633
26 December 2012 at 16:16 #38378
wayne quigley
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@waynequigley28540
sounds interesting
26 December 2012 at 18:17 #38379
neil hp
Participant
@neilhp
have a look at this guy on Mayhem…….he builds countless boats using the stuff…..and they are just magic

never uses grp though. neil.

**LINK**
27 December 2012 at 06:52 #38384
Paul T
Participant
@pault84577
David

I use foam board for building design prototypes as its quicker to shape than plywood and stronger than cardboard.

Foam board does have its drawbacks when used in a working model as it lacks the strength to resist impact damage and even a low speed contact can cause a catastrophic failure that wooden or grp hulls would easily survive.

When incorporating foam board into a working model as a weight saving measure I find that it works well as hull internal partitions and for sections of the superstructure.

Paul
27 December 2012 at 20:19 #38421
ashley needham
Participant
@ashleyneedham69188
David. are we talking about using styrofoam (blue usually) or expanded polystyrene?? Foamboard as I understand it is two bits of card with a foam layer in between. usually used for making architectural models or similar, mounting pictures on and so forth.

Ashley
28 December 2012 at 08:03 #38431
Paul T
Participant
@pault84577
Ashley

I am referring to the 'two bits of card with a foam layer in between' which is usually used for architectural models.

Its not really suitable for building traditional hulls as it doesn't like being formed into a curve but its great for large flat areas especially when you need to save some weight, on the larger models (ie over 6ft) using foamboard in non critical areas does contribute significant weight saving.

Paul

Ash I appreciate that this doesn't answer you question but I hope that it makes my mumbling clearer to the membership

Edited By Paul T on 28/12/2012 08:31:43
28 December 2012 at 08:09 #38432
ashley needham
Participant
@ashleyneedham69188
But, Paul Paul, was David referring to foamboard or boards of foam??

Where we rehearse is sometimes used by TV companies to do their rehearsals, and on the odd occaisisision they have models of the scene layouts (using foamboard) which are very neat and equisitly done, and you ought to see what their carpenters knock up as props!!

Ashley
11 January 2013 at 22:54 #38647
hammer
Participant
@hammer
Builders 2" insulason used for these models work OK

Edited By geoffrey yarham on 11/01/2013 22:55:42
12 January 2013 at 22:07 #38673
hammer
Participant
@hammer
The photos above show the constrution method I use & a completed model. I use 2" insulating foam board with silver card on each side.

First step remove silver from one side, then make the board the thickness of the spaceing between frame centres. Either adding extra layers or sanding down. Mark out half frames on the remaining silverside one each hand, cut out with a saw, making sure the cut is square. Next cut the profile of the boat from 5mm ply, mark the frame positions both sides. Cut out the middle in one piece, leaving the stem ,keel & stern post, clamp back in position ( one clamp each end at deck level).Start with the largest frame on silver side. Glue to keel and just a spot at the top on the removable middle. Repeat on both sides forward & aft, always with the silver on the largest side of each station. It is then simple to sand the blocks down to the silver. ( I use thixothropic 5 mniute wood glue). I have covered the exterior with car body filler, paper and plates cut from drinks cans, all with good resaults. When the outside is strong enough the interior can be removed ( the clamps removed when the blocks reach them. Geoff

Edited By geoffrey yarham on 12/01/2013 22:10:03
13 January 2013 at 07:52 #38674
Paul T
Participant
@pault84577
To explain the difference for Ashley

This is builders insulation board the most common being 50mm thick, it is made by a company called Kingspan and the 50mm board is called TW50. The product also comes in thicknesses of 75mm, 100mm, 125mm etc.

The silver backing sheets are easily removed and the polyurethane foam core is easily shaped with sandpaper (sanding should be done outside and a minimum of P2 level dust mask must be worn)

This is architects foam board and commonly comes in thicknesses of 3mm and 5mm it is used to make architectural models and for mounting artwork etc.

The paper backing is not removable and the foam core disintegrates when the backing is removed.

Paul

Edited By Paul T on 13/01/2013 07:56:47
14 January 2013 at 15:05 #38695
ashley needham
Participant
@ashleyneedham69188
Paul. Thanks for that.

What can you cover the builders foamboard with for a smooth surface? I suppose Eze-Kote/glass cloth would be one thing .. OR the thing to do would be to make the hull and have it "shrink wrapped" with styrene in a vacform!! machine… could hollow out the middle then for…stuff… and have a tough hull covering.

Ashley
15 January 2013 at 18:40 #38724
hammer
Participant
@hammer
Ashley did you not read my post. The coaster in the photo has metal plates, also car boady filler or paper will give a smoth finish. The first layer care must be taken that the glue will not attack the foam. Geoff.

Edited By geoffrey yarham on 15/01/2013 18:41:40
15 February 2013 at 18:46 #39229
david cuthbertson
Participant
@davidcuthbertson76633
Apologies for not jumping in on posts. A car accident (not my fault) and all the following stuff had me out of action. I was thinking originally of a wood frame hull covered with the artist type 3/16" foamboard,- paper two sides and foam in the middle. Then cover with epoxy/glass cloth for waterproofing. Theoretically, it should be light, strong and easily heaved on to a car roof much like a canoe.
15 February 2013 at 18:51 #39230
david cuthbertson
Participant
@davidcuthbertson76633
Just to go on a new tangent, has anyone dealt with http://www.model-plan.com? I was going to order a set of plans from them and wondered if anyone had any experience, good or bad with them.
16 February 2013 at 10:36 #39237
LARRY WHETTON
Participant
@larrywhetton68737
Hi David,

I hope you are better now?..seems a lot work to build a hull i would go for plank on frame or ply

skins, for rivett detail use card have a look at Bob build of glasgow paddler ,

or veiw the gallery loads nice ideas there ………..Larry….
16 February 2013 at 20:08 #39242
david cuthbertson
Participant
@davidcuthbertson76633
Hi Larry,

I'm fine now, the big hassle was finding a half decent replacement car that the insurance money would pay for outright. I love the rivet detail in the photos. My reason for thinking about using foamboard was weight reduction and large area coverage. I've worked with foam board in the past and it's a great material. I've seen it used for rc planes and architectural models but never for an rc ship.
4 March 2013 at 20:40 #39515
mark69
Participant
@mark69
hi thats how l have made my hull for the yacht l have started the foam is so much easer to work with but you realy must use a dust mask and get your self an old hoover as the dust will stick to every thing including you this pic shows mine earlyer on after sanding l gave it two coats of grp tissue with polyester resin keel went on later
4 March 2013 at 21:57 #39518
hammer
Participant
@hammer
Thats very nice I hope you found it quick and easy.. Geoff
7 March 2013 at 14:56 #39558
Paul T
Participant
@pault84577
I have developed a way to strengthen foam board (craft board) so it can be used to make frames and keels on my larger models without bending.

It involves creating a laminate sandwich of board and fabric using PVA, initial strength tests are very promising and I am moving on to building a 5ft Edwardian river cruiser with the material.

Paul
30 July 2013 at 17:32 #42490
Derrick Thatcher
Participant
@derrickthatcher90883
Having recently layed some laminate wood flooring in the lounge, I find I have a pack and a few panels of this left over.

http://www.diy.com/nav/decor/flooring/flooring-underlay/SELITac-5mm-Foam-Flooring-Underlay-12608623

The mylar film peels off readily leaving a smooth surface and it looks an ideal modelling material. I have experimented with a few test pieces using PVA adhesive and glass cloth/Eezicote covering with satisfactory results. It also sands nicely.

I shall be using it to make the superstructure on my latest model. If that works-out, I'll try a Glynn Guest Vedette constructed solely from the material.
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