Hello Jeremy

Have a read of this article **LINK** as it will answer most of your questions.

Paul

Jeremy. As you may have read, I have just been varnishing projects no`s 2 and 3, in this case Mahogany veneer. I had not varnished anything much before and was frankly surprised, as Paul says, how much the varnish soaks into the wood. The first coat was rubbed away in its entirety using wet`n`dry, as were virtually the subsequent two coats.

What you are doing is of course using these coats as a filler. UNFORTUNATELY this I found was a bit catch 22; If I had just lightly rubbed down the first coat or two and then applied a third I would have had a varnished wood surface, reasonably shiny and ok for a distance, but the more coats you apply and rub down, the smoother and more mirror like the effect becomes and you are in it for the long haul. Marine varnish is not quite as hard as other types I believe, as it flexes to allow the movement of the wood (important in a boat) and so I was finding that you need to allow plenty of drying time between coats.

The other issue is getting JUST THE RIGHT amount of varnish on there. Too little and it doesn't run smooth, too much and it runs (as mentioned). AND of course dust and whathavyou that seems to be attracted to the surface.

I have no answers for this. I applied about 12 coats ​I think, and the final one I deemed to be good enough…it certainly looks great from 6 paces.

Bite the bullet. Use some 600 grit wet`n`dry or 800/1200  perhaps and cut the finish back so that is dead smooth, and apply more coats/rubdown/coat/rubdown. Its the only way…..

Ashley.  Unusual disclaimer, as speaking about varnishing after the master has spoken.

Edited By ashley needham on 10/02/2016 17:41:12

I hate to say it, but your finish looks as though it is contaminated with dust and fibres. it is essential to wipe down with a tack cloth after every session of rubbing down and then to move to a totally clean and dust free environment before re-coating.

It's often the case when space is at a premium. Just try and have a good hoover up if you have to paint in the build area. you have a really good looking model there which deserves a fine finish. go on, paint in the bedroom

That's a good call Dave. I have used Rustins plastic coat to good effect on hardwood floors. As you say, it drys fast and has a high build rate.

Not wishing to call The Bears advice into question but whilst a bathroom might be a fairly dust free environment they can suffer from rapid changes in temperature and humidity both of which are very detrimental to a freshly varnished finish.

The Barrel Back was varnished in a fully enclosed tent type gazebo during the warm summer months, the gazebo provided shade and protection from airborne dust and insects.

Paul

Paul
I didn't intend for the model to take a shower with anyone……the bathroom should, of course, be vacant at the time (e.g. overnight). Once the surface has set up then dust and insects aren't a problem – 'cos they don't stick. Anyroad up, m'duck, it works for me.

Jeremy
Perish the thought that you should undo what you've already done! I suggested the Rustins' stuff simply as an alternative for consideration at another time/model/person.

Now back to the workshop to mask and paint that perishing windscreen…..

DM

Jeremy

Not sure if this will help now.

I remember from Woodwork at school and early in married life when I made some of our furniture. I used a lot of polyurethane varnish, I couldn't get a good gloss finish so I was taught to rid the varnish down with some very fine wire wool, dippped in white spirit to polish off the top surface of the varnish. This was cleaned off with a clean rag and more white spirit, it gave a good egg shell finish so was very smooth.

Tim

Jeremy,

I have built several varnished mahogany boats, only I use steamed pearwood to represent mahogany in scale.

It is a fine grained, figureless wood of a nice red colour, although it needs staining with spirit stains to get that correct Philipine "mahogany" colour that Rivas are so famous for. I use cellulose sanding sealer from scratch. I find about 4 or 5 coats are enough, rubbed down between the last few coats. It can be re-coated almost immediately, so is very quick.

THEN stain the bits that need staining. NEVER stain the wood, stain the finish. Staining the wood kills the grain and flattens it all.

Finally I used to use 2 coats of spar varnish to finish. A wax coating keeps it nice after a week or so. I put that on overall, varnish, chrome and all. 3Ms is best.

I can supply pictures if you want. I used to get over £3000 for these models. Everything, but the glasses and the props was totally scratchbuilt, from works drawings (yes, I got some!) From compass head to Riva bucket, worm and wheel steering to Chevy Big Blocks.

Cheers,

Martin

Well that looks fine, Jeremy. Don't know about you, but I found making and assembling the windscreen and its frame was easily the most difficult job!

I take it this is the wooden form of Amati kit?

I built an Amati Riva for a customer years ago and it was the biggest, most mis-shapen blob of polyurethane resin I have ever seen! It was an appalling affront to the public, frankly and took nearly as long to make a decent job of as the scratchbuilt ones I did!

Cheers,

Martin