Vic Smeed Starlet

Advert

New Replies

Report Bug

Help/FAQs

Vic Smeed Starlet

This topic is empty.

Viewing 23 posts - 1 through 23 (of 23 total)

Author

Posts
21 August 2018 at 14:25 #78564
Dave Gidman
Participant
@davegidman45520
Hi Ladies and Gents, This is only my second build, the first being a US1M racing yacht that took me 6 years to build as I knew absolutely nothing about boats or their rigging etc or radio controls.So quite a learning curve.

I've got the plans and i'm waiting on the wood kit from Belair for the Starlet this week hopefully.

I'm itching to get started so I've mocked up the keel bulb half from balsa, sanded it and painted it ready to make a 2 piece plaster mould. Now, no doubt there's quite a few folk out there who've built one of these, am I right in thinking I have to cast two lead halves or can I use lead shot and epoxy? Is there enough room for 2.5lb of lead shot in one half?

No doubt this will be the first of many inane questions and hopefully I'll try and do a build log for the simpletons out there like myself. Any help would be greatly received. Regards Dave

Edited By Dave Gidman on 21/08/2018 14:30:29
Advert

21 August 2018 at 14:25 #2799
Dave Gidman
Participant
@davegidman45520
21 August 2018 at 23:23 #78572
Malcolm Frary
Participant
@malcolmfrary95515
The way I did my half ballasts a lot of years ago involved dropping the required weight of lead into a jug brim full of water, removing the lead and replacing it with plasticine to the right level. The plasticine was used to make a "master" of the half weight of the correct volume which was then used to make the mould prior to casting using the melted lead.

Shot, even mixed size shot, is not as dense as solid lead, but there will be some empirical testing needed to find out for sure if the volume that your mould gives you will do the job with shot. The masters might need a bit of deepening. The extra weight of the resin can be ignored – when it is immersed, it will be compensated for. Experience with a couple of Victorias says that a slightly bulkier, but less dense, bulb of good design has no noticeable effect on performance.

Back to my effeort – to prevent the thermal shock of the hot lead cracking the (incredibly well dried) plaster, I lined the mould with aluminium foil.. Didn't prevent the crack, but retained the lead. The resulting surface imperfections didn't matter since the lead was to be covered with glass cloth and resin anyway. All done outdoors with a proper plumber's ladle, big gloves and face protection. And standing upwind of the hot stuff.
22 August 2018 at 09:45 #78574
Charles Oates
Participant
@charlesoates31738
Hi Dave, I've found the original magazine article about casting the bulb. If you need it I can scan and post it on here. Just let me know.

Chas
22 August 2018 at 10:59 #78575
Dave Gidman
Participant
@davegidman45520
Thanks for he replies Fellas.

Charles, I've very kindly had an offer of a scan of the "Simple model yachts" book, which I believe may include casting the lead keel. Thanks for the offer. That's good info for the future mind, I bought my last keel bulb but I'm keen to have a go at making most things.

Malcolm, I've been gleaning info from YouTube video's on casting lead. Most of them pre-heat the mould with a blow lamp or some such fire breathing apparatus to eleviate the thermal shock I think. Never done it myself but looking forward to having a go. Even harvesting the lead from an old Lorry battery, watch this space for the accident report lol.

Edited By Dave Gidman on 22/08/2018 11:02:02
23 August 2018 at 14:19 #78578
Dave Gidman
Participant
@davegidman45520
Hopefully I can start soon, wood’s coming tomorrow, Got a copy of The building instructions just need lead and the rest of the wood for the hull etc. Thanks to everyone who replied, As a beginner I greatly appreciate the help. Regards Dave
23 August 2018 at 18:21 #78579
Boiler Bri
Participant
@boilerbri
Hi Dave. I would strongly advise you not to get your lead from an old battery. Too many risks for one in The dismantling and too many impurity in the metal

Try a roofers local to your area or a scrap yard.

Good luck on the building.

Brian

Ps we used to put a drop of oil in the moulds when pouring lead.

Edited By Brian Dickinson 1 on 23/08/2018 18:22:08
23 August 2018 at 20:34 #78581
Ray Wood 3
Participant
@raywood3
Hi Dave,

Make sure you have a stout ladder to get on the church roof it's also risky

Regards Ray
23 August 2018 at 22:23 #78583
Malcolm Frary
Participant
@malcolmfrary95515
+1 Brian Dickinson. There are horror stories galore regarding stripping lead acid batteries. They have lots of very powerful acid, even when drained (and draining a battery is not that simple), plain ordinary lead is bad enough on its own, let alone when comprehensively polluted. I expect that some of the unwanted pollutants would gather on the surface to be easily scraped off for disposal, but some would either escape and make your back yard an unhealthy place to be or remain in the mix.

Lead acid batteries are almost totally recyclable,but the people who recycle them have the premises and gear to survive doing it. Lead and its compounds are dangerous if not treated carefully, not just the obvious molten metal, the stuff is poisonous via touch and breathing vapour.

I got most of mine back then from a sympathetic tyreman as used balance weights. The steel and road muck formed a scum easily removed. Modern weight are probably totally different.
26 August 2018 at 00:45 #78590
Dave Gidman
Participant
@davegidman45520
Thanks for the concern. Got a Lorry battery but I haven't decided whether to use it or not. If I do I'll be using all the PPE i can get on. It's free and I'm a tight northerner!! Sulphuric acid is a drain cleaner and neutralised by a solution of Bicarbonate of soda apparently. There's loads of video's on YouTube of people doing it so it's a toss up. I made the Moulds today so it'll take weeks for them to dry properly.

Dave
1 September 2018 at 21:59 #78665
Dave Gidman
Participant
@davegidman45520
Just a quickie,

I received my wood from Belair and in the kit is another rudder and it’s absolutely mahoosive! Easily 3 times the size of the original. You obviously use it instead of the original rudder and Skeg which are supplied as well. Anyone used it? I was kindly sent a copy of a magazine article in which it was advised to widen the keel fin by 3 or 4 inches and increase the rudder by 50% to help with side drift. Will this huge rudder save doing the other alterations?

I’ve just ordered the wood to finish the rest of the hull. Any help would be greatly received.
2 September 2018 at 09:24 #78669
Dave Gidman
Participant
@davegidman45520
2 September 2018 at 09:26 #78670
Dave Gidman
Participant
@davegidman45520
2 September 2018 at 09:37 #78672
Dave Gidman
Participant
@davegidman45520
Sorry about the pants photo’s but that’s the rudder. Obviously needs shaping and it’s laminated from 3 pieces of ply. Hopefully it is a rudder, can’t see what else it could be and I can’t see another rudder shaped thing in the kit.

Dave
2 September 2018 at 09:37 #78673
Dave Gidman
Participant
@davegidman45520
It’s all gone pear shaped. No photo’s. will keep trying. They’re in the albums section under “Dave’s projects”.

Edited By Dave Gidman on 02/09/2018 09:38:42

Edited By Dave Gidman on 02/09/2018 09:45:38
22 September 2018 at 20:35 #79030
neil epworth
Participant
@neilepworth74103
Hi Dave

Ive just got the same parts kit from belair and plan from sarik.Not sure when I,ll be starting it. I,ll keep an eye on your postings to see if I can gain some pointers.Good luck with the build.

Regards Neil
22 September 2018 at 23:59 #79034
Dave Gidman
Participant
@davegidman45520
Thanks Neil, I'm still having a drama posting pics but I'll stick them in my album.

Have done the hull and rudder. There's quite a bit of chamfering to do before the panels can be fitted. I've gone with the larger "racing" rudder for straight line stability in the end instead of the Skeg.

I've crafted the bow from balsa which has turned out really good then this week I'm covering the hull with lightweight fibreglass cloth and epoxy and waterproofing the inside of the hull ready to start planning the sail controls etc. Still need to purchase a mast and fittings etc but I'm waiting till I've got the sail winch fitted and fairlead positions sorted. I'm pretty new to this so updating the plans and instructions from the 1960's takes some thinking about. I'm possibly going to make the hatch larger (for access) by making the whole roof removable somehow, I'll see. Anyway good luck with your build.

Regards Dave
17 October 2018 at 20:55 #79393
Dave Gidman
Participant
@davegidman45520
Quick update. Done the keel bulb halves and my face hasn't fallen off and my lungs, liver and kidneys are still functioning I think, thanks to the windy weather we've been having, (and the PPE)

Had to order a small amount of scrap lead from fleabay. The Lorry battery didn't give me as much lead as I was expecting. I got 4lb 5oz, basically the terminals and the bits connecting the plates.

I first emptied out the acid then neutralised the plates with a bicarbonate of soda solution, left it overnight and emptied it out. Then with the help of an angle grinder I opened the battery, I had overalls, glasses, facemask and gloves on obviously. The terminals and bits connecting the plates were easy to liberate and melt down with a blow lamp the plates however needed more processing than I was able to give them, they yealded very little lead. The amount of energy used to get the lead from the plates outweighed the amount of lead I got so I gave up.

Anyway, I'm glad I did it, it was a dirty job but I won't be doing it again! I'll buy it from eBay!

Sail winch and rudder servo fitted and working, just got to work out how to get the sheets through the deck and the cabin roof, made both booms as per the plans from 3/8 inch spruce. Next step is the mast, deck on and cabin built, obviously after I've sorted the sheeting conundrum.
29 May 2019 at 14:54 #82478
Dave Gidman
Participant
@davegidman45520
29 May 2019 at 14:55 #82479
Dave Gidman
Participant
@davegidman45520
29 May 2019 at 14:56 #82480
Dave Gidman
Participant
@davegidman45520
29 May 2019 at 15:29 #82481
Dave Gidman
Participant
@davegidman45520
Starlet sails great. Racing rudder works a treat. Although where I sail is surrounded by trees so the wind blows a bit strange and it has loads of weed coming and the water is really low so not ideal.

I positioned the rudder servo slightly aft of where it supposed to be and I cut a flush fitting hatch to give me access. Will have to weigh the boat because it looks a little high in the water but it’s not a problem. I coated the hull in light weight glass fibre sheet and epoxy sanded smooth then gave it 4 or 5 coats of Halfords gloss white enamel, wet and dried between each coat then gave it a couple of coats of clear lacquer. Sails from Frank at Nylet as i’m not confident enough to have a go at sails and Jobs a good ‘un.
31 May 2019 at 10:39 #82504
Malcolm Frary
Participant
@malcolmfrary95515
Sitting a little high in the water is not a problem with a yacht. It means that you have a better power to weight ratio. Provided it tacks OK, just think "Hurray" and go with it.
Author

Posts