Vosper rttl

[John W EParticipant @johnwe]

hi there, Michael, your message has just been pointed out to me – as far as the prop shafts are concerned, I would go with what Ray on his plan has shown you. As far as prop shaft lengths are concerned. When I built my model of the RTTL I made up the prop shafts from cut down 12 inch prop tubes which the outer section had been cut down to approximately 6 inches long and the shaft was left at 12 inches long. There was then a support made which fits next to the propellers. Bit of a tedious job to set two of them up – because in the long run its just for cosmetic looks really.

john

[Michael Cole 8Participant @michaelcole8]

Hi all,

Been having a problem trying to get photo on here frustrating to say the least.

So I will try again, success.

Practice makes perfect, I am learning with the communities help.

Kind regards

Michael

[Michael Cole 8Participant @michaelcole8]

Hi,

I should have said I applied the super glue to the batten but you may have gathered that already, but I did apply the glue around the batten to ensure the seal was made.

I haven't got around to fitting shafts and motors as yet. I have been making bits and pieces for the Vosper.

Will submit photos as I progress.

Kind regards

Michael.

[Michael Cole 8Participant @michaelcole8]

Hi,

Here is a photo of a few parts I have been making.

[Michael Cole 8Participant @michaelcole8]

Hi all,

I am having problems getting, according to the plan, light grey paint for the superstructure can anyone advise or recommend.

Kind regards

Michael.

Edited By Michael Cole 7 on 14/02/2020 17:38:24

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Micheal,

What is the problem with the light grey colour ? I use Humbrol oil based enamels for most things.

Regards Ray

[ashley needhamParticipant @ashleyneedham69188]

……or ordinary household light grey undercoat.

Having just dived in to add my pennies worth of sage advice I can’t remember what your final hull colour was…however it will need some undercoat so a tin of Halfords best grey primer will do, and can be used for the top as well!

There is a lot of talk about “the right grey” for warships, but within a broad range of greys, anything is acceptable as grey is one of those colours most susceptible to the prevailing light conditions, and how light or dark it is.

Ashley

[Dave Cooper 6Participant @davecooper6]

Hi Michael

I used Halfords grey primer for the lower superstructure and Humbrol "Mid-Grey" for the deck.

You may be able to judge for yourself from the latest "Accessories" posts of my boat.

It was quite an over-cast day, and, as Ashley says, this can have a big affect on the perceived 'hue'. If you have a selection of greys available, I would try them out on pieces of scrap wood and then offer them up in different combinations.

Dave

[Michael Cole 8Participant @michaelcole8]

Hi all,

I got some light grey satin paint and tested it on some scrap pieces of wood. The paint is fine and the finish is good.

Thank you all again for your help.

Kind regards

Michael.

[Michael Cole 8Participant @michaelcole8]

Hi all,

I need help with the deck, I want to draw the planks, do I seal the deck first if so would 2 coats be enough. What is the procedure could someone please advise me.

Kind regards

Michael.

[Michael Cole 8Participant @michaelcole8]

Hi,

I am making window frames for the Vosper out of card and trying to glue the card to celluloid without success. The glue I am using is super glue, is there another way of making the windows.

Kind regards

Michael.

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Micheal,

The best glue to use is Formula 560 canopy glue dries clear, superglue fogs the glazing,

Regarding drawing the planks, best before the sealer in my view.

Regards Ray

[Dave Cooper 6Participant @davecooper6]

Superglue certainly fogged one of my 'clearviews' and epoxy made the other one look like it had shipped some water.

Interesting effects if that's what you're after !

For the normal (cabin) acetate glazing I used Wilcos general purpose glue (which can be contact or 'contact-less' as per requirements). Probably best to go with Ray's suggestion though.

Dave

[John W EParticipant @johnwe]

Hi there,

have you thought about using a CD case – the clear plastic ones. Just tried this idea myself on the windows of an MGB and what I was able to do was to glue rings cut from plastic tubing onto them. I used Tamiya extra thin cement to stick the rings onto the windows. I also used canopy glue to stick the actual windows to the inside of the superstructure. Up until now, they haven't fallen out and I haven't poked them out with my fingers. They seem to withstanding a bit of rough and tumble.

john

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi John,

That's a very good looking gun boat 😀 yes the CD cases are great for glazing & flat windscreens that need some strength.Regards

What is the new hull in the background??

Regards Ray

Edited By Ray Wood 2 on 27/02/2020 20:03:28

[John W EParticipant @johnwe]

Ray, the motor gun boat was a free plan in Model Boats mag way back – its been on the back burner to build for a long long time – and the model in the backgound is another old one – called the Buoy Cat designed by F.Body. At the moment I am setting up an Enya 19 inside – cos there are one or 2 lakes around here that allow us to run IC engines and we can get away with running IC engines if the model is a bit vintage.

john

Edited By John W E on 28/02/2020 08:35:24

[Michael Cole 8Participant @michaelcole8]

Hi all,

Thank you for your help with the glue and window materials. I never thought of cd cases or even plastic tubing for the windows. I am learning something new with your help.

Very grateful to you

Michael.

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi John,

Buoy Cat's a classic alright, I remember the dreams inspired by the MAP plans handbook designs during the 60's 😀

Maybe we should start a Vintage classics thread? Is your gun boat the Grey Goose ?

Best Regards Ray

[Robert Smith 23Participant @robertsmith23]

Hi

Apologies for jumping in on this thread, I can't really help but I did build the Vosper RTTL 2754 back in the 1970's presumably from free plans in Model Boats Magazine. I recently found my model in the attic and in need of restoration, does anyone know where I can purchase the plans, I can't find them on Sarik?

Rob

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Robert,

MM530 , just googled £14.50 from Sarik, good luck with your restoration.

Regards Ray

[Robert Smith 23Participant @robertsmith23]

Thanks Ray

I'll check that out.

Rob

[Ray Wood 3Participant @raywood3]

Hi Rob

I have the plan & have cut out the templates for the bulkheads, it's On my list to build 😀

Regards Ray

[Robert Smith 23Participant @robertsmith23]

Sounds good Ray

I have found the plan at Sarik and will get hold of it, I suspect it will be a while before I get around to the restoration as I am also trying to complete the restoration of a Sea Urchin Yacht that I built for my 'O' Levels back in 1970. Once the restoration is done I'll post a picture, at the moment it is a bit of a broken mess.

Rob

[Michael Cole 8Participant @michaelcole8]

Hi all,

It's surprising how the cost of things go up the plan cost me

10 shillings in old money many a year ago.

Kind regards

Michael.

[Dave MilbournParticipant @davemilbourn48782]

I found this a while ago. Historic Inflation Calculator

You can begin to feel very old very quickly once you start to use it – but it's still a bit of fun! There are some anomolies, however e.g. 20 fags should cost £2.59 c/w over a tenner these days, and a pint of bitter just over a pound. Then there's petrol……and house prices…..

Dave M

Edited By Dave Milbourn on 01/03/2020 13:44:27

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